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Old 01-28-2010, 02:47 AM   #21
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get a crappy mustang, rip out the drivetrain build that while you dd ur miata and then swap it all in the miata, win/win with no down time..
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:42 AM   #22
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get a crappy mustang, rip out the drivetrain build that while you dd ur miata and then swap it all in the miata, win/win with no down time..
Why put an eleventy billion lb lump of pig iron in the front of the miata when you could use an LSx and barely affect the balance?
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Old 01-28-2010, 04:09 AM   #23
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Why put an eleventy billion lb lump of pig iron in the front of the miata when you could use an LSx and barely affect the balance?
Duckie,

How many LS-1, LS-2, LS-3, LS-x motors have you put on the scales?? Do you know that some LS motors have iron blocks (with AL heads) and actually weigh more than a comparable small block Ford??? Weight not withstanding, does the fact that a late model LSX drivetrain sells for 2x over a 5.0/4.6 Mustang drivetrain make any difference??????
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Old 01-28-2010, 05:29 AM   #24
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AFCO's already done. I have the torsen now but the 4.30's are killing me. 1st is gone in a heart beat. A MS rear with 3.90's and a 6 speed is on my list of to do's. FM anti-sway bars will be here soon. Brakes and wheels? Done.
I said a good LSD and high-dollar suspension, not a Torsen and some AFCOs. If you want a badass street machine, you should have done FCM Bilsteins. If you want a hardcore track car, you need an OS Giken and some 949 XIDAs.

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The engine is what is on my list when I get back from hell. I see some here have 1.9 on their signature info. How are you getting 1.9? Bore?
OE displacement is 1839cc, 0.5mm overbore is 1862cc, 1mm overbore is 1884cc. FM Stroker is a 4mm stroke and a 1.5mm overbore, for a total of 1998cc (IIRC).
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Old 01-28-2010, 05:45 AM   #25
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Duckie,

How many LS-1, LS-2, LS-3, LS-x motors have you put on the scales?? Do you know that some LS motors have iron blocks (with AL heads) and actually weigh more than a comparable small block Ford??? Weight not withstanding, does the fact that a late model LSX drivetrain sells for 2x over a 5.0/4.6 Mustang drivetrain make any difference??????
I stand corrected on the weights. I'm not really current with V8s, the last one I owned was a mopar 440 in a jensen. But there must be a reason that people choose the LS for a swap rather than the stang engine.
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Old 01-28-2010, 07:48 AM   #26
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I have already had the V-8 lecture from Hustler before I ordered the 3071. I was hoping you guys would come with some interesting links, info, or ideas to give me something to research while I'm stuck here.

Deerhunter, thanks for the info.

Duckie_uk, yes encouragement (information) is what I need.

FM has a few dynos comparing 1.8's and 2.0's but none with the 3071 on it and none with the 1.8 built. I am guessing the stroker will give about 40 more HP.
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Old 01-28-2010, 09:01 AM   #27
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If you're going to spring for a stroker, my advice is to go with the FM kit. It's been tested to ludicrous power levels (550-800 rwhp) and, more importantly, the rod ratio (when coupled with their rods/pistons) is kept stock for "revability". The MRM kit appears to get the displacement only through increased bore, so you won't get the low-end torque a stroker affords.
I'd rather have 2.0 from a larger bore and keep the 1.8 stroke and help that rod ratio even more. And have it be cheaper.
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Old 01-28-2010, 09:48 AM   #28
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I love the misconseption that high boost kills engines LOL. Like as if you go over 20psi your engine magically blows up. Build it right, tune it right, know the true hp limits of what your internal assembley can handle, and you'll have no problems. My old mirage made almost 500whp on a bone stock internal 4g63 with 100% no problems.
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Old 01-28-2010, 09:53 AM   #29
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I'd rather have 2.0 from a larger bore and keep the 1.8 stroke and help that rod ratio even more. And have it be cheaper.
True dat. Also, it is nice to have the lower piston speed of the stock stroke and not have the oil consumption issues associated with a piston pin in the oil ring land. This is quite similar to the 331 vs 347 SBF debate; do you want low end torque and slightly reduced engine life or high end RPM and a more stable piston in the bore?
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Old 01-28-2010, 09:58 AM   #30
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I love the misconseption that high boost kills engines LOL. Like as if you go over 20psi your engine magically blows up. Build it right, tune it right, know the true hp limits of what your internal assembley can handle, and you'll have no problems. My old mirage made almost 500whp on a bone stock internal 4g63 with 100% no problems.

There are lots of of DSMs/Evos putting down 400+ rwhp on stock shortblocks. The Evo IX runs 20psi of boost stock and is totally reliable. Relevance to a boosted Miata engine discussion? ZERO!
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Old 01-28-2010, 10:58 AM   #31
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True dat. Also, it is nice to have the lower piston speed of the stock stroke and not have the oil consumption issues associated with a piston pin in the oil ring land. This is quite similar to the 331 vs 347 SBF debate; do you want low end torque and slightly reduced engine life or high end RPM and a more stable piston in the bore?
Exactly. IF/when I build a SBF it'll be a 331, mostly because it'll make way too much torque for the miata chassis/tires regardless so you may as well make it rev.
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Old 01-28-2010, 02:36 PM   #32
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There are lots of of DSMs/Evos putting down 400+ rwhp on stock shortblocks. The Evo IX runs 20psi of boost stock and is totally reliable. Relevance to a boosted Miata engine discussion? ZERO!
Well i didnt mean you could make 400whp out of a stock motor miata lol. But you could do a higher boost fat tune on a stock engine just fine. I ran 22psi on a GT28 when my 1.6 had 167,000 miles on it. I mean i beat the ever loving christ outta this thing for a whole summer with ZERO problems. Its all in the tune.
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Old 01-28-2010, 05:19 PM   #33
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Why put an eleventy billion lb lump of pig iron in the front of the miata when you could use an LSx and barely affect the balance?
Cost is the first factor
2nd the OP doesnt wants little down time as i assume thats his DD.
Having the entire donor car in ur garage is definitely a +. You're doing the swap and you need a part...Oh i need this, you walk 10 feet over and u rip it out and install it on your miata. This is what allows u to do a swap in few days vs 2 months.

3rd the 5.0 weights about 100 lb more than the stock miata block. The other 150 extra lb a miata gains when doing a v8 swap is from all the running gear, the braces and anything else thats added in the swap. Most 5.0 swaps end up in the 2550 lb range.
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Old 01-28-2010, 06:47 PM   #34
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I seem to have hit a nerve with my un-researched comment on the mustang lump. I hereby retract it and apologise, didn't mean anything by it just jumped on the Stang h8ing bandwagon we had here for a little while when cookie monster was having his drag race.

Truce?
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Old 01-28-2010, 07:03 PM   #35
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I seem to have hit a nerve with my un-researched comment on the mustang lump. I hereby retract it and apologise, didn't mean anything by it just jumped on the Stang h8ing bandwagon we had here for a little while when cookie monster was having his drag race.

Truce?

struck a nerve? no man no hard feelings

besides the hard on for a v8 under my nice blue hood
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Old 01-28-2010, 07:19 PM   #36
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I said a good LSD and high-dollar suspension, not a Torsen and some AFCOs. If you want a badass street machine, you should have done FCM Bilsteins. If you want a hardcore track car, you need an OS Giken and some 949 XIDAs.



OE displacement is 1839cc, 0.5mm overbore is 1862cc, 1mm overbore is 1884cc. FM Stroker is a 4mm stroke and a 1.5mm overbore, for a total of 1998cc (IIRC).
Having done the FM stroker myself. I agree with Savington here. I ran my car with the 3071R same overall setup but with stock displacement and yea it made less torque and less power but it was still fast and I think on a limited budget what would help me be faster is the suspension, the diff and a few other parts including aero more so than the 2.0L. The extra torque of the 2.0L helps more in autocross than it does on the track. Right now Im wishing I had better suspension.

I swapped springs on my Revalved Koni’s recently and I think one of them is dieing. Damping goes to zero near full rebound. I am scrounging trying to figure out what to do within my budget plans to fix it and I’m drooling over XIDA’s don’t want to fix the Koni because there is something better out there I just can’t find the money in my budget.

Bob
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Old 01-28-2010, 07:46 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by DOHCPanther View Post
I have already had the V-8 lecture from Hustler before I ordered the 3071. I was hoping you guys would come with some interesting links, info, or ideas to give me something to research while I'm stuck here.
Everyone heer gave you a discussion. What answer do you want to hear so we can discuss it for you?

Last time we talked to you, you didn't want a track car because you were too busy doing 4th gear tire rolls at various stop-lights. If you want a proper track car you need to reinvent what you've already done. Oh, and enjoy the incessantly failing manifold.
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Old 01-29-2010, 04:14 AM   #38
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I'd rather have 2.0 from a larger bore and keep the 1.8 stroke and help that rod ratio even more. And have it be cheaper.
+1

Cheaper too. The plan going together for the OGK motor is for stock stroke, 85mm pistons, 141 or 143mm rods. 1929cc. Easy and cheap to pull 9 lbs out of stock crank.
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Old 01-29-2010, 06:58 AM   #39
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Hustler the lecture was a good lecture, I learned a lot from it. Honestly, thank you but I have made my decision and I am happy with it.

Turbo Tim, how are you getting 2.0 from bore? What size pistons? Who sells them? Head gasket? I have not found any info on large bore 1.8's. For the money of a stroker I have tride to find information on removing the stock cylinder and replacing it with sleves. Or what displacement is possible from a combination of both. 2.2 possible?
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Old 01-29-2010, 07:06 AM   #40
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Emilio, I went to your site but I dont see any info on the OGK motor you refer to. Do you have a link? Pics? I am interested in the 9lb lighter crank.
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