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Old 09-26-2012, 10:32 PM   #21
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:52 PM   #22
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Good job at running allofit for timing. I am proud of you.
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:59 PM   #23
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Good job at running allofit for timing. I am proud of you.
Perhaps this may not come as a surprise but I am confused. Don't know what you are referring to.
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:13 PM   #24
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He is believing your timing map is way too far advance. My guess would be you ran the boost into an untuned area with a lot of timing.
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:54 PM   #25
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If you're not looking to run ALLOFIT a built motor would probably be overkill. If you want extra security and some headroom you can throw in some forged rods. The most important thing to do is get the car properly tuned by someone from who knows what they're doing (IE find someone on the forum that's nearby and offer booze). However, from the sounds of it, it would seem like your motor was damaged when you got it.

Edit: Just saw the above posts, yeah it sounds like your car was improperly tuned. Get a solid base map(with good timing) and don't mess with it unless you know what you're doing. The timing that is...Mess with the fuel to get it right obviously..
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:11 AM   #26
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Wow. That kind of damage is impressive. At the power levels you were at, and this is not miata specfic experience from me but just as a car guy, I think:
Massively too much timing. Pre-ignition (not detionation) and massive cylinder overpressure bent the rods or
overreving, perhaps even in the past or
loss of oil pressure, heat, power kicks rods (ka24de's like to so this).

sounds like you have a solid plan to move forward and a good supply of interesting paperweights.
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:39 AM   #27
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More
Close up pics of piston faces please.
They look realllly epic from what i can see
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:53 AM   #28
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I wish there was a high speed video of this
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:52 AM   #29
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Got some good news though, machine shop said the head is okay. Nothing a little honing and a new valve can't fix. Also picked up the new block from a 94 with less than 90k. Cylinder 3 has some scores but not terrible. I have to see what machine shop says.
Good news is that 99 head is a direct bolt on, and it will flow much better than the earlier ones. You are already wired for it so might as well get her patched up and back in the game. I can't remember, but is the crank sensor the same between a 94 and a 99?

I too am impressed, and sorry for your loss.

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Usually rods fail from power not tunning and your pistons dont look fried. Hmm actually that i look at them the pistons do look a bit crispy around the corners. How much spark were u running? Post a pic of your timing map.
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Close up pics of piston faces please.
They look realllly epic from what i can see
+1 to both. Lets see a screen shot of that timing map, and some good high res pics of the piston faces.

Did you confirm your initial timing in TunerStudio with a timing light on the crank?
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:02 PM   #30
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I appreciate all the feedback. Im getting the idea that I dont really need to dig myself into a bigger financial hole to get this thing going again reliably.

I set the base timing to 10* after first start up/warm up. I didnt touch it after that. I dont believe I changed anything involving the timing in TS but I did play with fuel, enrichment and idle stuff. I am totally new to Megasquirt so i'ts possible I made a royal screw up somewhere. However, I think the base map was fine considering it came from Alex from Stratified Auto who has a very good reputation.

I dont think I will be running ALLOFIT or advanced timing (is that correct?).

The only reason I guessed detonation is because all of the other rods were bent. But pre-ignition is probably correct. Unfortunately I am not too keen what causes either condition...yet.

Unfortunately, I scrapped almost everything from that motor so I cant get any more pics.
I will try to get the timing map tonight.
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:36 PM   #31
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dude just buy a VVT long block with manifold for $600.

Make 250hp, have a happy sensation.

Also where are you located
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:43 PM   #32
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I would have to change harnesses and the ECU and who knows what else. Plus I didn't think I would find a long block for 600.

I am located in NYC.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:00 PM   #33
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I read that 99's with piggy back are most prone to venting
Vasken
Tough luck Vasken.

I am curious about 99s with piggy backs being "most" prone to venting. Links?
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:04 PM   #34
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I would have to change harnesses and the ECU and who knows what else. Plus I didn't think I would find a long block for 600.

I am located in NYC.

Harnesses.

Then get 99 longblock for $400.


I will come up and tune it for you for fissting plus an amtrack ticket.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:15 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
Harnesses.

Then get 99 longblock for $400.


I will come up and tune it for you for fissting plus an amtrack ticket.


Because 1 hole in block is not enough.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:24 PM   #36
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I will come up and tune it for you for fissting plus an amtrack ticket.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:38 PM   #37
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holy ****
can master mechanic kritz help?
lol
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:44 PM   #38
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If the engine had been overrevved in the past it could do that if put under a load. Any of the stock rod motors could.

Check and see how much of that metal went through the turbine wheel. Often times they become junk after things like that happen in the engine.
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:46 PM   #39
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He was the head mechanic during the autopsy and also the guy in the passenger seat when it happened.

LOL at the responses to Fae.

Things looked okay on the exhaust side.
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Old 09-29-2012, 05:29 PM   #40
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Block is now at the shop. Cylinder 3 might need to be bored out but we will see. I hope to have a fresh long block in a couple of weeks. I decided to keep the components stock and just replace rings, bearings and seals unless the block is bored in which case I will get larger pistons.

BTW, where in TS can I see my timing map? I see VE and AFR tables but not timing. And are they saved in tunerstudio while offline or does the ecu need to be power and connected?
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