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Old 02-04-2014, 01:18 PM   #41
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here goes just my two cents if anyone wants it .
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Wait, you just can't climb in the ring with Ali 'cause you think you box!
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Old 02-04-2014, 01:47 PM   #42
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Thanks for the input... reiddy?

I can tell you are trying, but please, use paragraphs, use punctuation... Use something to break up that wall of poorly written text. It hurts to read it.
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Old 02-04-2014, 01:49 PM   #43
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sorry i just got excited! The line tend to get blurry, when the gears in my head start turning.
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:40 PM   #44
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here goes just my two cents if anyone wants it .
if your gonna build a race motor for a daily that's fine be aware its gonna require a few extra tidbits for its survival. iv'e built a few vehicles for street and track .
you should use pistons with some type of skirt coating this will prevent some but not all piston skirt damage and scuffing of bores also select a piston with longer skirts most have short skirt causing that horrible knocking when cold . next if your machinist is any good hell ask you what type of use for piston to bore clearance and ring gap as well as bearing fitment all these things affect the longevity of your motor . another thing is oil i personally break my motors in with high zinc oils. then i run penzoil weight depends on clearances on motor a tight motor 5w30 slightly loose 10w30 then i switch to t6 rotella once broken in . if i'm gonna beat the bricks out of it i just run t5 15w40 run this in my drift cars and drag cars no problems at all. one more thing remember if its a race motor its gonna need maintenance if you daily it your gonna be putting minimum is pistons like around 50-60k my vr4 at 650hp wheel daily driven with ross pistons lasted 80k before piston skirt slap was un bearable pulled block sent out it went from std bore to .20 over this time i went wiesco with skirt coating and i gylcol coated block and bottom of pistons hope fully she will last 100k this time . hope this helps answer ant questions you had everyone on here seems to be very knowledgeable
Pistons at 50-60k will be fine as that's 4 years. Hopefully pistons wear more than the bores as I think we're already at the max overbore?
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Old 02-04-2014, 10:11 PM   #45
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Basically an identical setup to his. What's the concensus on the warm-up/maintenance procedure?

IIRC I have .020 at the mains and .017 on the rods clearance wise. BE street/strip oil pump no shims.

My shortest drives would be in the range of 10 miles if I took the car to work. However I'm known to take 30-40 mile night drives along windy roads and 100 mile trips to the local beaches. Car sees 3000-5000 (max) miles per year and is not my daily driver.
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Old 02-04-2014, 10:21 PM   #46
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Has it not been discussed enough here? Why are you asking the same questions that have been answered above?

Unless I'm not understanding your question.
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Old 02-04-2014, 10:25 PM   #47
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I didn't really find an answer in the thread.

Basically I want to know if there's anything to be done differently with a forged built miata motor vs for example my stock d16 honda motor or any other factory made car. In my honda, i fire it up and don't really think about sitting on a cold engine too long etc.etc.
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Old 02-04-2014, 11:43 PM   #48
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I guess I've been in the wrong all along. I have a habit of going out an firing up the car and letting warm up for 30sec to a few minutes depending on outside temps. Partly so that the heater works sooner to me getting in and partly to let the motor warm up before getting on the road. Once I'm going down the road I like the option to get on it when I want. Do my best to let it warm up fully before the idiocy kicks in.

Going with my theory the motor is closer to operating temp when it is actually driving and less wear then, but more because it is just idling? I trust Sav's advice,but it is hard to just get in the car and go. Fire it up, go back inside because I forgot my coffee, get in car, pick radio XYZ, double check I have what I need, ..... can take a minute or two.

This is pretty pertinent to me as I'll be running a built motor in my daily soon.
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:44 AM   #49
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I didn't really find an answer in the thread.

Basically I want to know if there's anything to be done differently with a forged built miata motor vs for example my stock d16 honda motor or any other factory made car. In my honda, i fire it up and don't really think about sitting on a cold engine too long etc.etc.
It's in post #6 of this thread, the 2nd group of words, or paragraph if you will.
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:23 AM   #50
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That assumes we can take that as gospel.


Dann
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:47 AM   #51
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There seem to be 2 schools of thought:
1) let it tick over to warm up with no throttle to minimise wear by minimising load.
and
2) drive straight off thus minimising the amount of time spent with a rich mixture.

I'm going to go with driving straight off with as little throttle as possible and using my bike as much as possible. Hopefully that'll get me 80,000 miles between pistons, which will be 4-5 years by which time I'll be to old to get in and out of the car.
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:28 AM   #52
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I've been doing what Sav posted for a long time now. Didn't want to mention it as some people get their panties in a bunch when you tell them you don't sit there and idle the car for 10 minutes before driving it.

I hop in and go, making sure that it gets MINIMUM throttle possible until its warmed up. My morning commute is really early before the roads are congested, so I take my sweet time and accelerate ridiculously slow making sure the engine gets next to no load.

I did retain my stock pistons however, so my method might not apply to a forged piston engine. Since the piston to wall tolerances on those are more loose, you might want to give it a minute or two so you're not driving with piston slap.

Last edited by 18psi; 02-05-2014 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:42 PM   #53
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I don't load the engine until it has had a chance to warm up because until the pistons are up to operating temperature they are loose in the cylinder bores. When loose, they rock to a far greater angle and dig the corners of the piston into the cylinder walls. And the force exerted by the piston against the cylinder wall is significantly increased when the engine is placed under a load.

But you cats feel free to do as you wish.
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Old 02-05-2014, 01:47 PM   #54
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I just let my car warm up for 10 minutes because **** going to work in a cold car.
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Old 02-05-2014, 02:00 PM   #55
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I just let my car warm up for 10 minutes because **** going to work in a cold car.
No heated seats poverty post.
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Old 02-05-2014, 02:04 PM   #56
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No heated seats poverty post.
It did also take a few minutes in the past for my turbo to un-**** itself enough to actually, you know... spin. Didn't like driving it before that point, because it made some bad noises.
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:44 PM   #57
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No heated seats poverty post.
What means cold to you guys? Let's state numbers when talking about letting the car warm up. For me if the coolant is around 0 or better start and go slow, around -8 I'll give it 30sec, if it's below -15 a minute and -20 1-1.5min and below -25 3 days warm up. Then proceed easy and increasing load as engine temps climbs. I do this for most vehicles I own.

Celsius / Metric the only real ways to measure according to the scientific community.
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:46 PM   #58
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cold = needle at C

lol

but really, around here cold is 30-40F
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:38 PM   #59
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Below freezing at this time of year, so far our winter has been on avg 15 colder than avg, supposed to down near 4-5 tonight.

So not only we get this in the winter, but then July/August here have brutal heat. OK set the record for highest average temp for the year in 2012 in the US.
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:49 PM   #60
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cold = needle at C

lol

but really, around here cold is 30-40F
My needle is constantly below C, damned broken dash.

I start my car with about 70 coolant and start going around 120. But typically when ever my piston slap stops is nice.
I need oil temp to see about that.
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