Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

Before I tell my symptoms, tell me what would some likely or possible symtoms be if my crank pulley was tight but was walking back and forth within a worn keyway? Assume that timing between cam sensor and crank sensor is locked but crank itself is walking back and forth say, 3-4 degrees.

I KNOW I had a bad keyway and I fixed it with the "loctite fix" several years ago. However, what would I expect if the loctite shattered over time and the timing belt gear drive was not firmly indexed on the crank? Obviously my timing would be suspect. What else?

Schroedinger

You might see some wobble. You would think you had the right timing (mark on pulley compared to timing gauge mark), but you wouldn’t because the crank would be misaligned to the cog, pulley and everything else. Down on power would be the most likely symptom. Misfire or combustion if it’s bad enough.

Pull plug #1, drop a dowel in there, and rotate the crank to find TDC. See if that agrees with the timing mark.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

New motor is going in the car by March. I will do a full check by then. I just answered my own question in my head though... A few degrees of timing won't be enough to make my car do what it's doing. It could explain the random knock on high loads and perhaps make it make less power than it should...

Consider the thread closed.

Basically what was happening was that the car was running perfectly until it gets warm. Then, I do one full power pull and everything is lean until I shut it off. I was thinking that perhaps the swing in timing could create a situation where it was requiring more fuel once the timing is walked back due to a full power pull, but remembering my tuning instruction you do fuel before timing and then verify. Sometimes you make much larger swings in timing than 3-4 degrees and it rarely makes a big difference in fuel.

themonkeyman

Sounds like heat soak of some sort, maybe on a sensor or fuel supply...?