I can get 300 miles on a tank, even doing 75mph with the AC on. But yea it does get pretty crappy range, especially compared to my insight where I get 600 miles on the same amount of fuel.

That I get, but on the street. Meh.

Ha HA,,,shite......never mind....I'm pleasantly surprised how lighty you got off here....but lets face it we've all fucked up. wether it was empty gas tank or something else
great thing it was only lack of petrol in your case.

Well, the plot thickens. It just happened again with a full tank. Must be a fuel pump on the way out.

Yep. Easy job.

I was like you and looked elsewhere first. I didn't think fuel pumps could be intermittent. But, apparently, electric fuel pumps behave this way when they are at end of life. Driving along all happy and then . . . nothing! Let it sit a few minutes and it fires back up.

Just ordered up a DW200. Hopefully that'll be the end of this sordid tale.

Dang it! Car stopped again.

It gave me a clue this time though. When it was happening, the fuel pump wouldn't run but the cooling fan was being lightly back-driven. Checked the wiring diagrams and . . . bad ground . . . duh! Check/clean your grounds. The one that is under the brake booster/clutch master is especially important. Both your fuel pump relay and your cooling fan ground there. That area also gets soaked if you wash your engine bay or if a heater hose develops a leak. Turbos cook the area.

Basics.

Good put. I'll give it a scrub.

Anyone with experience putting in the DW200 in a 90-93? The kit comes with 3 o-rings, but I could only get 2 to fit on the fuel out nipple with the lower spacer in place. Also this o-ring retainer thing snapped when I tried to force it on. Anyone know if it is intended to swap over? Is it critical? Any way to get a hold of extra one?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...11e7383ba1.jpg

I replaced mine with an OEM Denso pump. It came with a new retainer. The only problem I see with a cracked retainer is that the O-ring won't seal. If you let the fuel get really low, you might suck a bit of air rather than drawing 100% from the sock.

I'm trending towards thinking I don't need it. The DW pump nipple has a cast in ridge to retain the o rings, which is why the old retainer split when I tried to force it on.

Definitely use the ridge if it has one.

ugh... car no start.

so I just swapped in the DW200 fuel pump. I'm cranking, and getting no start. Tail pipe sniff suggests it's getting lots of fuel. While logging my non-start cranks, I'm noticing that the battery voltage in TS looks really low. I'm showing 12.8-12.5v when I measure across the posts of 2 different batteries I've tried, but 11.7v in TS. I've never needed to use the "calibrate battery voltage" tool in TS, and the manual basically says: "don't fiddle with it". Some googling turns up a few posts where Brain & others recommend checking voltage at the injectors. What is the calibration procedure? TS wants the supply voltage at min and max ADC count. Can this be done without a running vehicle? Also, is this just a band aid? should I be chasing a grounding issue instead?

Measured voltage at injectors with just the key in the on position, and I was seeing 12.2v. I just fiddled with the calibration setting until the battery v gauge in TS matched. Damn thing fired right up.

Hmm... Still happening. Getting much worse. I could only idle it for a few minutes before it stalls. Cracked open the pump relay, and it looks like too much of the smoke has got out of the wires. Hopefully this is just a tired old relay problem...

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...811cf64a33.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b847a73bbc.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8859cd7c89.jpg

Use a jumper wire to test for free.