I think its a 92. And he's using AEM

 

Its better than most setups, but far from ideal
before i was into turbos I played around with nitrous for a long time, and really learned how tricky it is to mak nitrous work the way it should.
its hard to believe, but over 99% of all nitrous is done wrong (even by professionals).

for one those solenoids are not good, they flow very poorly and cause the nitrous to turn into gas prematurely, they also have a tendancy to leak.

 

Well I don't know **** about nitrous so I can't say much.
But I know that thing is running without issues and is absolutely NASTY on the track. Its got a built 3 speed auto, that turbo is a BW s4**, and everything is well sorted/top notch.

 

drag racing is lol.

 

who needs 2x60mm wastegates?

 

Someone running that size turbo at 40+psi? lol I don't know

 

well, a smaller turbine usually needs the larger gates. Back when i had a VW the shitty ******** at EIP tuning sprayed nitrous into the compressor inlet for quick spool. This was in between them ripping me off and sending me their old junk before they closed the shitty business.

 

yo momma

 

Oh really. Go in the 9's some time. It will make you laugh all right.

 

twin scroll.

 

I see a pro shot solenoid on there (the big one). That will flow well over 300 hp. I see a small one pointing down on the first pic. Is that what you are talking about? Is that possibly a purge solenoid? I can not see where the oulet line is going on the small solenoid.

 

Bling > function.

 

In my opinion if i go through the trouble and spend the money to put a nitrous kit on my car then im not gonna have it shut off when the turbo spools. Also dry kits are much much safer given you have some form of engine management, no intake flows perfect and there's always one cylinder getting more air then the other which is fine until the air contains a portion of your fuel mixture at which point that cylinder will run lean and the first thing to go will be either a piston or a valve. For me it was a valve.

 

I've been in the 8's actually and its fun about 3 times. Daddy had me drive an old WJ retired prostocker with a 605" on a 3-stage squeeze.

 

In other words daddy had you ride his hot rod?

That explains a lot...

 

its not home much nitrous they will flow, its how much nitrous they will flow 'smoothly'
NOS solenoids are internally very poorly designed with lots of sharp edges and have areas that allow the liquid nitrous to expand into a gas, which really hurts not only the amount of power you can make but also how well it atomizes and how consistent the AFR's are

 

he touched the bad place too.

 

+1 That's what I've seen. Pressure switch shuts it off once you start getting into boost pretty good. If you weren't seeing good boost until 4500 because you were running a big turbo, you could have a 50 shot get it going at 3500 and cut off when you reached 50 to 60% of max boost.

The thing to always keep in mind is that it is a spool helper and not a power adder and should be treated that way. That way you don't use much nox, and you don't screw with the big power part of your tune. If you are running 20 psi and the nitrous cuts off when it gets you to 12psi, you aren't really pushing your engine's capabilities, but enhancing the width of the powerband.

Personally, I'd rather downshift if given the choice and not screw with it. But one of the guys I know is fond of gadgets and gizmos and just had to have it.

 

dude just get a kit of ebay and you will be fine. I like nos on top of turbo and run boost activated nos, with a switch engagement its nice but like others said expensive. I def wouldnt run it to spool my turbo though thats a waste imo outside of the track.

 

Why not????



Because your dyno graph will end up with a big ***** in it:





Sorry, couldn't resist...that was a good one by Ben.



Seriously though I'd worry about screwing up the powerband if you get carried away. Six shooter hit it best...using it as a spool aid and not a power adder and you should be golden.

I just know I don't want to be worried about whether I'm at 4000rpm or 4500rpm mid-turn, and what kind of kick I'm going to get as I roll onto the throttle. I only say this as I know you plan to use it as a street machine...and driveability could end up being teh suck.

We already have enough traction problems...and I think a 50 shot available for 1000rpm midrange will only complicate things.

I know people use it...but I'd try and find a Miata-specific app and grill the owner before I went about it.



I do support the idea solely on principle though. I think we are all waaay too friggin' scared to run BIG turbos and see what the Miata can really do. I know the powerband with anything bigger than a 2871 starts to suck fast...but this could really help. I imagine it doesn't take much to drop target boost rpm down to where it's really useable on a huge snail.

Good luck!