This is why you change your oil
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 813
Total Cats: 14
From: Granbury, Tx
Customer brought their car in today to try and get some stuff covered under warranty, nice try buddy. They claim it has an excessive rattle on startup, check engine light and also a leaking valve cover.
Well when I originally started the car after it sat awhile I nearly **** myself, sounded like the rods were about to shoot out of this thing. After I pulled it in the shop I did two things
1) checked the dip stick, 2) removed oil cap. My first sign was their attempt to "clean" the dipstick. 2 small indicators, for low and full, were full of crap that they had left behind. You can't fool me
After removing the cap I noticed build up in the cover that was "wiped" with a rag to get cleaned up. Again, nice try.
After checking those two things I checked what this engine code was. Sure enough, stuck oil control valve. Time to have a peek
Sorry for the quality of some photos, hard to take pics on my phone with dirty hands





Well when I originally started the car after it sat awhile I nearly **** myself, sounded like the rods were about to shoot out of this thing. After I pulled it in the shop I did two things
1) checked the dip stick, 2) removed oil cap. My first sign was their attempt to "clean" the dipstick. 2 small indicators, for low and full, were full of crap that they had left behind. You can't fool me
After removing the cap I noticed build up in the cover that was "wiped" with a rag to get cleaned up. Again, nice try.After checking those two things I checked what this engine code was. Sure enough, stuck oil control valve. Time to have a peek

Sorry for the quality of some photos, hard to take pics on my phone with dirty hands





Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 813
Total Cats: 14
From: Granbury, Tx
Yeah i'm a master tech there, take it easy on me the pay is good and the work is easy lol not bad for a 21 year old
Well... getting my masters now
While you bastards make bank I get discounted parts I could use on my miata, mainly HLA's (which I don't use) and $10 coolant reroute thermostat necks, well I guess the coolant neck is the only advantage of working there...
Well... getting my masters nowWhile you bastards make bank I get discounted parts I could use on my miata, mainly HLA's (which I don't use) and $10 coolant reroute thermostat necks, well I guess the coolant neck is the only advantage of working there...
Because oil is cheap, the car has a 6 mile daily commute, and is autox'd.

EDIT: I've had the car for about 2000 miles (just hit 60k). It's had 4 oil changes, hunting for the right weight/brand. HLA tick is gone, and oil comes out clean. I'll likely be changing it in July after the first 4-5 events, regardless of the fact it'll only have about 1500miles on it. However, if it continues to stay clean, and have zero oil loss, I may stretch it out. Mainly, I always change before winter, and right after. Hoping for 0-30 rotella in the US as the rumors suggest.

EDIT: I've had the car for about 2000 miles (just hit 60k). It's had 4 oil changes, hunting for the right weight/brand. HLA tick is gone, and oil comes out clean. I'll likely be changing it in July after the first 4-5 events, regardless of the fact it'll only have about 1500miles on it. However, if it continues to stay clean, and have zero oil loss, I may stretch it out. Mainly, I always change before winter, and right after. Hoping for 0-30 rotella in the US as the rumors suggest.
BTW, I have torn into an engine that was much worse than that one, but it had over 120k miles. It was a 4.3 Chevy and it actually had charcoal briquets (same size and consistency) between the rocker arms and under the intake manifold.








