A common question ANSWERED: Why we ONLY recommend ATi Dampers?
 

We ship thousands of sets of engine internals each year and it's common practice for a customer to chat with us about their goals, budgets and guidance on which components might be right for them.

Three times today I was asked about ATi dampers and "what's the big fuss?". If you weren't already aware, the ATi damper is the ONLY "dynamic" damper on the market for the MX-5. What's a dynamic damper? The factory damper and other aftermarket balancers are use a BONDED counterweight. This means that they are only capable of effectively dampening a small RPM window (if they were even tuned for that) because the counter mass is fixed to one position using a bonded rubber material.

The ATi dampers use a suspended counterweight that adapts continuously throughout the RPM range to keep your harmonics happy throughout the entire RPM window!

Our kit includes NEW crank hardware/woodruff key, a BELT GUIDE and you can choose from the variety of trigger wheels that we produce in-house. Shop now at: ATI Harmonic Balancer + Hardware/Keyway 918522 Miata

http://forum.miata.net/vb/attachment...1&d=1468013922

Will you actually answer the question? Why do you only recommend ATi Dampers?

Even compared to Supermiata Damper?

What cars need this damper? Power levels? RPMs?

That's the BHJ damper with a brand name on it - it's a static, fixed counter weight damper. I can't say there is a sure power level that "requires" a damper but it's a good measure for anyone who changes the weight of their rotating mass. Your crank is counter balanced based on factory internals.

One of the things that's commonly communicated is that you run a damper only to save your oil pump. It's true that a damper will improve conditions that cause pump failure but it's first job is to combat harmful engine harmonics. Better for engine bearings, rod ends, wrist pins, false knock detection and so on... The BP engine is already a noisy rotating assembly, a damper should be relatively high on your list of modifications.

I have the stock crank pulley, A/C, P/S, Forged 949 racing flywheel (i think it's 11 pounds), Flyin Miata stage2 Clutch. I'm running (well, it's not running currently but thats another story) MS3 Basic, off of whatever trigger wheel my car came with from the factory. (2001 miata LS 1.8vvt engine)

Redline is 6800. c30-94 rotrex with intercooler. should be around 260whp.

What trigger wheel do I get? I guess I'll get the ATI damper if you'd recommend it for my application.

Thanks

Great question. If you aren't changing your management run exactly the same wheel you have in the ATi configuration.

so I choose "4 tooth trigger wheel (your oem 4 tooth will not fit ati damper" as the trigger wheel option?

Thats correct!

Will I feel a difference in engine NVH with this damper? Or does it effect things on a smaller scale?

Thanks. I look forward to having a very dense dollar/volume item on the pos miata :)

i think it's amazing that customers are getting answered

Interested in this as well.

Some of these cars have 20+ year old balancers on them that have visually dry rotted and cracked rubber holding them together. I was personally in this situation and the pulley swap made a noticeable difference in the way the car felt, even at idle. But in other situations the poor harmonics might not be as apparent. Again these are noisy engines to begin with. The combination of changing your rotating assembly mass and an over worked failing damper is a recipe for all kinds of noise and poor harmonics.

Remember that the ATI unit is significantly heavier than an fresh OEM pulley. Does anyone remove that much weight from the crank (to make the combo lighter than stock)?

The damper works it's magic, but painstakingly removing weight and then bolting it back on should only be done with open eyes.

Fresh Mazda pulley have worked for me (for 50 hours the last 5 years), but I have an ATI that only needs small machining that might get installed on the next build, sometime.

I'm glad weight was brought up. There are two things to keep in mind.

1. If you're looking to reduce weight from your rotating assembly, the balancer is NOT the place to do it. That counterweight is the muscle behind combating poor harmonics.
2. That counterweight is a floating mass so although it is additional weight, it doesn't have as dramatic of an effect on the way the engine feels.

I would also imagine that while it is heavier it is pretty close to the moment of inertia.

I will be commenting on free rev differences before and after the ati damper. Have a little video of each.

Looking forward to that one

I bet someone a dollar there won't be a noticeable difference.

Do the ones for Miatas have undersized pulleys?

I'll take that bet. 1 dollar! I'll even give you paypal fees.

*internet handshake*

QFT.


Don't mind these posts, they'll go away if we ignore them!