Buying a welder
#104
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Flex head, with short back cap helps.
Though 95-99% of the time I weld with a large lens and the #12 cup.
its only a 130A torch and let me tell you, welding that hot you don't have much of a duty cycle with it.
I need to get a cooler and get the WP#20 torch-which is the same shape and size but water cooled and rated for 250A.
Though 95-99% of the time I weld with a large lens and the #12 cup.
its only a 130A torch and let me tell you, welding that hot you don't have much of a duty cycle with it.
I need to get a cooler and get the WP#20 torch-which is the same shape and size but water cooled and rated for 250A.
#108
Steve, what's your garage set up? Mine is attached and I didn't have 220 so I basically made an extension cord that ran from the air conditioning circuit (there's already a breaker for the ac) thru the ceiling of the basement out to the garage. Just to be safe I turn the ac off for a little while when welding so there's no extra current draw. Works awesome. If you can do something like this then the Everlast could be the way to go.
-JB
-JB
For example, your AC may have only #14 wire, which can handle 15 amps. The circuit breaker may be a 20 amp breaker, which is to prevent nuisance tripping from the compressor inrush current. If this is the case and your welder draws more than 15 amps, you would be in violation of the code, and could damage the insulation in your wires.
#109
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That ^ and my house has an interrupter on it. I'm not fully sure what it does, but from what i understand it will cut power to things the the AC unit in the summer time and high load days. It's optional for a reduced power bill. I'm not sure as i bought the house with it.
I'd be careful of that too though.
I'd be careful of that too though.
#110
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My garage is detached, so I'll need to have someone run a line for 220. While they are doing that I assume it won't be too much trouble for them to set up a separate circuit so I don't need to worry about borrowing power from the AC or dryer.
#111
Do it yourself? Its not all that hard to stick another breaker in the box, dig a trench, lay some conduit, run the wire, etc. My dad managed to do it, and the building inspector lives next door so we cant hit a piece of wood with a hammer without him popping his head in to make sure its up to code. Just dont forget the expansion joint on the conduit where it meets the houses, thats the one thing the building inspector made my dad fix.
#112
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If you have power running to the garage already, just pull 4 wire through that same conduit. Just make sure to lube it real good. Use the old wire to pull it through.
There are endless resources on the net on how to hook up the power. You'll need a sub box in the garage too.
There are endless resources on the net on how to hook up the power. You'll need a sub box in the garage too.
#113
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If you have power running to the garage already, just pull 4 wire through that same conduit. Just make sure to lube it real good. Use the old wire to pull it through.
There are endless resources on the net on how to hook up the power. You'll need a sub box in the garage too.
There are endless resources on the net on how to hook up the power. You'll need a sub box in the garage too.
you guys are grossly oversimplifying it. there are a lot of codes based on use, type of wire (al or cu) required airspace in the conduit, etc. im not an electrician but I had a lot of help consulting when I upgraded my service.
I ended up with TEK cable to run the 100a service to my garage. the TEK cable is direct bury rated and was sized for 100A with a welder in the circuit because welders need specific calculations for wire size.
#114
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conduit is sized by the amperage and the type of wire being pulled through it.
you guys are grossly oversimplifying it. there are a lot of codes based on use, type of wire (al or cu) required airspace in the conduit, etc. im not an electrician but I had a lot of help consulting when I upgraded my service.
I ended up with TEK cable to run the 100a service to my garage. the TEK cable is direct bury rated and was sized for 100A with a welder in the circuit because welders need specific calculations for wire size.
you guys are grossly oversimplifying it. there are a lot of codes based on use, type of wire (al or cu) required airspace in the conduit, etc. im not an electrician but I had a lot of help consulting when I upgraded my service.
I ended up with TEK cable to run the 100a service to my garage. the TEK cable is direct bury rated and was sized for 100A with a welder in the circuit because welders need specific calculations for wire size.
SSHHHHHHHHH
#116
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If you have power running to the garage already, just pull 4 wire through that same conduit. Just make sure to lube it real good. Use the old wire to pull it through.
There are endless resources on the net on how to hook up the power. You'll need a sub box in the garage too.
There are endless resources on the net on how to hook up the power. You'll need a sub box in the garage too.
What sort of circuit should I be looking to install for a ~200amp or less machine? Off the top of my head I think I have 80amp service but I haven't checked in a while.
#117
What I have now is either a 10amp or 15amp, so it's <1" conduit. I'm not sure a big enough line would even fit, much less be up to code. Besides, I do still need 110 service for lights and the opener.
What sort of circuit should I be looking to install for a ~200amp or less machine? Off the top of my head I think I have 80amp service but I haven't checked in a while.
What sort of circuit should I be looking to install for a ~200amp or less machine? Off the top of my head I think I have 80amp service but I haven't checked in a while.
#118
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my direct bury cable was 1" diameter on its own.
110 service is just half of the leg of a 220 service. 220 uses 2 hot and 1 neutral and a 110 uses a hot, neutral and a ground.
wiring a panel though you will have 3 wires plus a ground. 2 hot, 1 neutral and a bare (no cover) ground.
Keep in mind, im not an electrician- I just know how to set it up in my own home and terminology might be a bit off.
110 service is just half of the leg of a 220 service. 220 uses 2 hot and 1 neutral and a 110 uses a hot, neutral and a ground.
wiring a panel though you will have 3 wires plus a ground. 2 hot, 1 neutral and a bare (no cover) ground.
Keep in mind, im not an electrician- I just know how to set it up in my own home and terminology might be a bit off.
#119
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hot (220)
hot (110/220)
neutral (220/110)
Ground (110 round plug + sub panel gnd)
if your running wires to your garage, do a base cacluation on size you will need based on what you want to have in the garage. then run main wire from the house panel to a sub panel in your garage and then distribute from there. you can get panels for $100 with breakers in a kit from home depot. I suggest going to an electrical supply house for the main wire because it will be expensive. My 80' run of wire was about $800 just for the wire.