Build a metal box that's open on top, place part inside, remove the collect/insulator thing from your torch, fill the box with argon, profit?

Dam... Ive done enough of these now and i dont have any training in welding or anything and i hoped I could find someone who knew.

I want to just email a few companies who are pro but in other countries and asking if they have time to give me pics to show how.

Its the only thing i havnt really figured out how to do nicely.

Dann

Someone suggested this on another forum, however I dont charge nearly enough to be able to afford all the gas.

Dann

Charge more.

gas lens will allow for up to 3/4" electrode stickout.

yeah I know..

But i want all the fab work i can get for experience. Also i dont know how much my work is worth i dont want to scare people away.

how much flow for 3/4 inch?

Dann

Hmm, thats not quite enough to get all of the weld for connecting the runners to the collector. I needed to have like 1" sticking out for a couple of them, and that was with a standard nozzle and not a gas lens. I did of course turn the flow up to like 30-35cfm from like 20.

o.0


an inch? I never go more than maybe 1/4..

am I doing it wrong?

Dann

I normally never go more than the diameter to 1.5* the diameter of the tungsten out. But sometimes trying to fit into really tight spots you gotta do what you gotta do, and a weld with marginal shielding gas is going to seal better and be stronger than no weld at all.

My grind is usually 1/4" long. Then my tungsten sticks out about 3/8". #7 cup is normal.


I dunno... Maybe i'm doing it wrong.

Make your collectors shorter so that there isnt as much pipe on the end your welding.

That way you dont need as much tungsten stickout

I'm going to go with theres multiple ways of doing things. I was taught by someone who went by the 1-2 times the diameter of the tungsten should be out of the cup, if you need to do more than that, turn the gas flow up.

But if they're too short you run into a worse problem. Mine were really short, welding the pipe to the collector was a bit of a bear once there was more than one runner on it. You can see how tight the merge was on this side.

Attachment 185504

And no I'm not terribly happy with my weld quality on this, I've done much better, I was experimenting with ceriated tungsten and trying to weld sch40 with on 110v.

Took this from the Toxicfab facebook page.

See how short his collector is? makes it wasy easier to weld between the pipes.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...71842083_o.jpg

Probably going to come off wrong.

But quit trying "different" fancy shit.
Just learn the basics first man. I'm not really sure where to start with this. If you were running on 110, you were using allofit because that is REALLY hot.

I'm not even sure where to point you, because i feel there is so much to fix.
I think i told you this before, quit flat pedaling it.
Get yourself some flat stock, and see how small of a bead you can make. Turn that thing way down and hardly made a bead. Get your gap super super close too.

sorry I honestly cannot follow how the short collector makes it easier. how sorry?

Dann

And by trying ceriated tungsten I mean, its what came with the welder and my thoriated hadn't come in yet. The reason it looks so hot is that I had to go so slow, I didnt have enough oomph, miller recommends 125-200 for a 3/16 butt weld and 80-120 for 1/8, shc40 is right in the middle of the two. But I also didnt feel like I was actually getting 125amps. I did the turbo flange weld at school on the 480v machines and set it to 150, and did not come close to flat footing it. And that came out much better.

Attachment 185502



I've gotten a lot better since that manifold.

Attachment 185503

your reaching less with a stuck out tungsten. when you push it out that far in between a shallow angled merge your more suceptible to hitting a side with either the filler or the tungsten as well as you can see the puddle better.

basically instead of having a 5 degree window that your cup can fit into you have a 60 degree window.

Im not saying to make it a short one with a larger angle, just less length after they actually merge.

Try it and you will see.

Shortnening the collector that far ruins the scavenging properties.

I always assumed you would have to weld the spike portion from the inside of the collector with a long gas lens.

You could use a cheap sand blasting cabinet as a gas chamber and evacuate the whole thing with argon, than a gas lens would be unnecessary.

Couldnt you just pump argon inside the pipe? I know its used as a shield but to build a sealed box for welding it is a bit silly; I already saw someone said just blast argon, and stick the tungsten rod out a bit far, but doesnt that also make the weld a bit weaker in penetration?

Here's how I make collectors. Keep in mind, I cut out the triangle points and weld them to the header tubes without the collector, then weld on the collector.... That way I don't have to do any welding on the inside.

I make my bend by cutting off the starting end of a u bend. Yes they're not perfectly symmetrical on the front and back.

Transfer dye for scribing a line
Attachment 185481

Device for scribing a line 45* off 90*. Scribed in 2 positions, 90* apart.

Attachment 185482
Attachment 185483

Both lines scribed

Attachment 185484

Then cut them all with a bit extra

Attachment 185485

As you can see I have plenty to finish these headers (big block Chevy)

Attachment 185486

Made the fixture for the 14" abrasive saw, the rear tightening "pin" has a bolt you tighten to get the back snug.

Attachment 185487
Attachment 185488
Attachment 185489

Then you end up with these, rough and in need of deburing.

Attachment 185490

Debured.

Attachment 185491

I tack one half at a time

Attachment 185492

Then I am done, here is a before, and after of trimming material. I do a rough cut with the cutoff wheel, then pass it on the belt sander.

Attachment 185493

Ooo sexy.

Attachment 185494

Attachment 185495

Then it gets flared out at the end

Attachment 185496

Video of flaring on hydraulic press, with anti size as a lube. Just so it's said I was being sarcastic when I said "what do I do now?"

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...9B1E93FA5B.mp4

Made a tapered cone, this is the fixture for back purging. Lol a bulkhead worked nicely for the bung to fit.

Attachment 185497

All done!

Attachment 185498

Attachment 185499

Attachment 185500

And here's a nice weld I wanted to show off.

Attachment 185501