Here are some photos of the turbo exhaust manifold i made for my new engine.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c12c6344ec.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dcbb602a68.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5bfe27e8ce.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4b8721805d.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4be0196f9f.jpg

^ That's just pornography. :giggle:

Very nice.

Yeah baby, top notch flanges there. Want a job?

I'd like to see what that fancy garrett TS turbine housing gets you too.

Anybody here have dyno graphs of twinscroll vs non-twin scroll assuming everything else is the same.

Nice to see man welds, instead of the usual microscopic slightly anemic beads that have gained popularity.

Forgive my ignorance, and enlighten me.

Those two black things hanging off either side are wastegates, correct? If so, why two of them? Why not just one in the middle?

It's a twin scroll manifold so exhaust gas is split right until it hits the turbo. You need one WG for each passage.

Thanks. :)
It's important to get full penetration and also back purge when welding stainless exhaust manifolds, so you have to crank up the amperage.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eb4d5b7518.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ec7df1bb36.jpg

You get earlier spool, and more hp an torque in the mid range.
here is a link you can read: https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/twin-...-great-divide/

Shifti, that exhaust flange is beautiful...you're beautiful. :giggle:

Sometimes, the simplest little shit makes all the difference.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9556f91fe7.png


Shims. That's literally all I fabricated today. Just a few thin little strips of 24ga aluminum, and as a result, the news department is no longer freaking out about Camera 14 (which was recently rebuilt) being slightly off-level.

Total money spent replacing a 15 year old camera (and supporting equipment) which was on its last legs and has failed multiple times: $35,000

Total money spent compensating for the fact that the new robot is a heck of a lot heavier than the old one, which was causing the televator to flex: $0.00. (Sheet metal was already lying around.)


The end result:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a34b9283ba.png

I should add to the above: yet another win for eMachineshop. I draw a thing, they make a thing.

The bigger item here is the 1/2" thick aluminum plate under the robot, which adapts its industry-standard mounting pattern (four 3/8" bolts on a 4.375" circle) to the very nonstandard 90s vintage Telemetrics arm which was already in place, and too convenient not to re-use.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c8e2f9897a.png

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ddb38aa00f.png

A bit random since so much time has passed, but did you already run the car with this bracket? I have had some trouble at work with warping of 3D printed ABS plastic when re-heated. Mainly when I tried to be clever and heat up a printed part to around 60Celsius-degrees to couple it with a aluminum shaft. Just saying that maybe you want to test that out before you go for some serious driving.

Though printer might make a difference, I was using a basic Ultimaker 2 extended for that trial, never tried again with anything else.

Havent drove it yet. So really cant say.. But thanks for the tip, if i drive it some more ill check on it.