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Old 12-19-2014, 12:11 PM   #1
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Default Turbo Merge Collectors

So I just picked up an EFR turbo. So that means I am going to have to build me a baller manifold, mostly will make an exact copy of my absurdflow ram horn. The one thing that I am not sure about is making the merge collectors. I found this thread on honda-tech that has a pretty good guide. Are there any other good guides to read through or videos I should check out to help me get going on collectors?
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:27 PM   #2
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Cut off the vband & weld on efr flange.

The mani will be much simpler to make if you don't do it exactly equal length. Do it like everyone else with an almost kinda sorta looks equal length and save on grief with probably the same hp and a lighter & cheaper manifold.

I can't describe how I did my merges and I'm sure I didn't do them the smartest way. So...subscribed to learn how others do it.
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:39 PM   #3
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I just looked at that Honda link you posted. I never considered using my chop saw, but that would be a fast way of doing it. I use a HF horizontal band saw and let gravity do the work. Make the first cut on two pipes. Tack two pipes together. Tack weld those two pipes to fixture (much easier to clamp the square fixture than round pipes at shallow angles. This would also apply if using a chop saw). Band saw pipes again. Repeat to get another pair of sawed pipes. Tack those together with first pair. Done.

I get my angles from solidworks. My angles aren't the same on 4cyl collectors; my collectors are rectangular instead of square, cause Tx flanges are rectangular.
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Old 01-05-2015, 01:31 PM   #4
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band saw with fixturing.

pic in my old band saw attached.... the 1/2" tall blade on the saw wandered quite a bit. you should have a 3/4" tall bandsaw blade minimum to cut like this with any kind of result.

cut, rotate, cut repeat.


pretty much described in the HT thread.
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Turbo Merge Collectors-fixture.jpg  
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Old 01-05-2015, 02:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
band saw with fixturing.

pic in my old band saw attached.... the 1/2" tall blade on the saw wandered quite a bit. you should have a 3/4" tall bandsaw blade minimum to cut like this with any kind of result.

cut, rotate, cut repeat.


pretty much described in the HT thread.
I may ask for some more info on how you made those fixtures in the future.
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:40 PM   #6
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Man that's got to be hell on blades cutting like that, with only a few teeth engaged no? I'm sure it cuts quick.

I lay the pipes flat. More tedious to start the cut but cuts straighter with the 1/2" harborfreight size saw blades.
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:43 PM   #7
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like this (not my pic):

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Old 01-05-2015, 04:00 PM   #8
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The number of engaging teeth should not make a difference on a horizontal band saw. It's really no different than cutting a thin piece of plate on a vertical saw.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
I may ask for some more info on how you made those fixtures in the future.
I made the drawing in CAD, and sent it to a CNC machinist and paid the price to have it made.
I did it one off, but got a good deal in the end because the machinist re-used the design with a few tips from me for the next.


If your interested, I can figure out what its worth... I can likely sell you the one I have.



Quote:
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The number of engaging teeth should not make a difference on a horizontal band saw. It's really no different than cutting a thin piece of plate on a vertical saw.
Tims right, its hard on blades if you get the feed speed wrong.



I have done enough of them now that I have the feed rate dialed. I use a custom tooth blade (not pictured ) that cuts through stainless like butter, with no chattering even with the pipe like this. The blade is a lot more than your standard Harbor freight/ princess auto blade but I can have a collector cut in about 20 minutes from a piece of pipe stock.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:44 AM   #10
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My bad, I didn't even consider the Harbor Freight blade. I've never used one. I also see now, how that without being firmly planted on a table, it would want to vibrate really bad.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:47 AM   #11
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Have you cut stainless?

When I was inquiring about abrasives for it, one rep that didn't get my business told me "there is no such thing as a great abrasive for stainless"


Its extremely hard, gets really hot when you work it and as such kills your consumable tooling in no time. Its part of the reason you pay more for a custom part out of stainless vs something like aluminum.
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
Have you cut stainless?

When I was inquiring about abrasives for it, one rep that didn't get my business told me "there is no such thing as a great abrasive for stainless"


Its extremely hard, gets really hot when you work it and as such kills your consumable tooling in no time. Its part of the reason you pay more for a custom part out of stainless vs something like aluminum.
I have, yes. Your right it is difficult.

I wasn't implying that you were cutting it wrong. I actually really like the fixture you made.

Last edited by ryansmoneypit; 01-06-2015 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 01-08-2015, 05:04 PM   #13
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Seriously.
T3, T3/T4 4-1 Merge Collector 304 Stainless - Ace Race Parts - 4-1 Merge Collectors - Merge Collectors - Ace Race Parts

If i ever build a tube style, i'm just buying one of these. Welding it up myself. Honestly, for that price, i'd be more than happy to give them my money.

They also have prewelded collectors.
Ace Race Parts - 4-1 Merge Collectors - Merge Collectors - Ace Race Parts
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