clocking my greddy
I would keep it. I have read underhood air temps as much as 20* lower. It makes sense. If it wasn't needed they wouldn't have bothered putting them on. May help with standing water as well. For me, I live on a gravel road and won't chance a rock being kicked up into the belts.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,659
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From: atlanta-ish
After returning my 250 mile ride to North Carolina (and I *still* have a big grin on my face from it), I put the car up on stands. The oil pan is now drilled and tapped, the new fittings are installed, and the former around-the-motor drain is removed and capped. The entire procedure ended up taking about 3 hours from begin to end, to include some spreading of kitty litter over oil that didn't make it into the catch basin. The fitting in the pan went in clean. I JB Welded it in, but the JBW is very neat and discrete.
Even though I checked and tested multiple times, I ended up being a few mm too high with my tap into the pan, so I had to remove the a/c compressor and compressor bracket in order to get the barbed fitting to thread into the pan's fitting. Once the assembly was completed, I was able to replace the a/c bracket and comp without issue, and without having to grind down the bracket to clearance it. Which is nice because it saved me a trip to my dad's to use his bench grinder.
Also, I've had a minor oil leak from the front of the motor for a while now, and had assumed front crank seal. I discovered that the oil pump/comp bolt in the front of the motor was very loose. Perhaps that was my leak? We'll see.
I'll post some high lite pics from the NC group ride later.
Even though I checked and tested multiple times, I ended up being a few mm too high with my tap into the pan, so I had to remove the a/c compressor and compressor bracket in order to get the barbed fitting to thread into the pan's fitting. Once the assembly was completed, I was able to replace the a/c bracket and comp without issue, and without having to grind down the bracket to clearance it. Which is nice because it saved me a trip to my dad's to use his bench grinder.
Also, I've had a minor oil leak from the front of the motor for a while now, and had assumed front crank seal. I discovered that the oil pump/comp bolt in the front of the motor was very loose. Perhaps that was my leak? We'll see.
I'll post some high lite pics from the NC group ride later.
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I have a similar leak. Every time i clean up the front of the oil pan, it would come back the next couple of days. So i took the plastic covers of the front of the motor and can see the leak is coming from the cam seals and draining downwards. Haven't bought cam seals yet, but the leak is not to the point were i got to be adding oil all the time.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,659
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From: atlanta-ish
Still not cleaned up, but clocked, oil drain relocated, new filter installed (pretty bad ***, eh?), and yes even corrected crank case ventilation.
Maybe I'll get to engine bay clean up next weekend.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: atlanta-ish
No, that's the factory idler/tensioner pulley on cars equipped with a/c but not p/s. Fairly rare piece actually, but still available to order new. I can get em for $100 if you need it.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: atlanta-ish
$60 would be for the pulley only. One would also need the bracket, pulley collar, and hardware to make it work. 
$60 = yellow highlighted pulley
$100 = everything in red rectangle
(and you freakin stole that idler!)
$60 = yellow highlighted pulley
$100 = everything in red rectangle
(and you freakin stole that idler!)
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Mazda Miata Standard Steering Sub Kit
Item# NA01-YV-SK1
List Price: $69.60
Our Price: $59.16
http://www.mazdaparts.org/
Not trying to be a dick, just trying to save some people some $$.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: atlanta-ish
Interesting. That's a very odd part number for mazda... neither OEM looking nor aftermarket looking. It doesn't come up in Mazda EPC (electronic parts catalog). So I'm thinking it's not a genuine mazda part? I don't know that to be true with certainty...
For the record EPC shows BP01-15-930 (red box) retail $132.65 and BP01-15-940 (pulley only) $87.10
Note how the part numbers are numerical--not alphanumerical--in middle and end sections.
Comp parts tend to end in 0000 and aftermarket parts sold thru mazda tend to end in -9U
That's still a very cool find.
For the record EPC shows BP01-15-930 (red box) retail $132.65 and BP01-15-940 (pulley only) $87.10
Note how the part numbers are numerical--not alphanumerical--in middle and end sections.
Comp parts tend to end in 0000 and aftermarket parts sold thru mazda tend to end in -9U
That's still a very cool find.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,659
Total Cats: 134
From: atlanta-ish
I don't know. Good question.
I'll look it up tomorrow.
I'll look it up tomorrow.
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I wasn't thinking. The 1.6 uses vbelt whereas i use ribbed belts. Looks like they offer it for the 99+ as well but they reuse the same ad. Anyone know if its the same price for the 1.8 piece?
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