got it in today, here are some pics







quality seems decent. i wish the runners were a little thicker, but we will see how it holds up. i still need to mod it for my external wastegate.

 

Doesn't look bad at all for the $. Should definitely hold up better than the welded ones for similar dollars. I'd rock it if they had a 1.8 T25 one.

 

do the the inner most studs travel into the runners?

 

kinda, the hole is almost all the way through on one of them. but its nice for the $127 shipped i paid. i just welded the wastegate flange on, i will try and get some kind of test drive in today.

 

Pic of said WG flange, I wanna know where you placed it.

Also, it seems the inside is as rough as outside, have you thought about polishing that out a bit? It could help some in spool.

 

I just got this same manifold. Could you post a picture of your down pipe configuration? Also, do you have A/C or PS to contend with?

 

watching closely. waiting for "FAILED" thread.

 

as long as it's iron and not zinc I think it will be fine. the price tag is great for a cast manifold...who's the seller/brand?

 

did ya put a straight edge on the flanges? Too bad they didn't get a little more creative with the runners, even it would raise the cost.

 

Looks like they bought a welded JGS manifold, CMM'ed all the dimensions, and had it cast in China.

 

I'm going to strongly recommend relief cuts between runners on these manifolds. My own topmount HKS cracked and if Greddy's crack all the time without them i bet these will too.

 

drove the car for about 1/2 hour. so far so good.

 

This man is FAST!

 

Nice, I was looking at this manifold as a cheap way to get my turbo started. What did u do for a down pipe? Did you custom make it or is it a prefab piece?

Hopefully the manifold holds up

 

actually only took about a hour or so to install. i was just slackin on the post times

i have a hargard *** home built down pipe

 

If the runners actually pour complete at the foundry without air showing thru, the manifold is strong enough to hold up the Earth

The catch is; the log gets 500/600 degrees hotter than the flange at the head. A quick calc suggests the flange will change length about .030 less than the log when fully hot.

This has no choice but to force the manifold into an arc when heated on the engine.
Three possibilities, in my experience; the gasket between head and flange will leak/blow, the studs will get worker over pretty hard, and the manifold will crack.

The cure is as CJ suggested. Cut the slots. If/when it cracks, it will not be due to any poor material or inadequate strength, so be careful not to judge the integrity of the casting. Please fix it soon, else it will need surfacing also.

 

Very interesting info. I always wondered why greddy didn't put the relief cuts after the first few issues. I'm sure they must have run a test before marketing it...

 

Given the slipshod nature of the components, the woeful state of the documentation, the woeful fitment of the intake parts (on a LHD car) and the complete absence of quality control in the packing & shipping dept, I'm surprised that Greddy even bothered to design the thing prior to marketing it, much less test anything... The only pieces worth a damn in the whole Greddy kit are the turbo itself and the little plastic tee for the vacuum line.

It is surprising that the mfg of that manifold chose to copy a log design. The only real reason I can think of for building a log manifold is that they're simple to do if you're using weld-els. It's probably sub-par in terms of flow, but Corky's right, it sure as hell does look sturdy.

Bryan, How was your experience in terms of the fitment of the flange-to-head nuts? It looked like a few of those would be difficult.

 

It's always good when Corky pops in for a minute Good stuff.

 

I wish I took pictures of the manifold I literally had to cut in two to remove from my block. Thankfully now, there's a BEGi manifold in place.