subikid

Hey all,

Been lurking for a little while. Found a kit locally from a pretty good guy it seems. For reference: Mazda Miata Turbo Parts

Car: 1990
Mods: Just some diy stuff so far... but me has plans

SOOO. I'm going to buy the kit tomorrow. It looks as though everything is there. However, I formerly owned a fully built 05 N/A subaru and have not expanded my knowledge to the turbo world yet. Yes, I searched (been a forum addict since I bought my subaru a while back). And yes, I found a lot of answers. However, i'm about to dish out a good chunk of money, so I'd like to make sure everything goes perfect (that's impossible with car tuning, isn't it?? Oh well).

So take a look at the list on the listing I'm buying. Does it look complete?

I will be buying 1.8 injectors. I guess I'm going to have to buy the recalibration kit for the vortech fmu. After those things, I want to hear your opinions on how complete this is.

I'm getting extremely nervous, just because this is my first turbo project. To fill you in on my goal, I want to run 6 pounds and stay conservative.


Suggestions, comments, criticisms... anything to help. Just not flaming; if I wanted that, I'd talk to the Suby guys (if you've spent time on those forums, you'd understand..).


Thanks all
Kev

PS: Pics of my project and car tomorrow while in progress!

Bassmachine

Do et

But you should invest in a 02 clamp, wide band, ect.
Im sure their is more out there to be done but i haven't thought of it.

fluke

Well, the money is right, but here's what I don't like:

-Manifold looks like it may be one of those cheap e-bay units
-Not specific about parts, probably chinese e-bay parts

$200 seems like it's too good to be true, I'd run over and have a look if it's local, ask about the condition of all the parts, especially the turbo.

AlexO35

iTrader: (7)

Also with two intercoolers, there is no mention of charge piping. Gotta have that. I'd say go for it though. I agree with Basmachine, get the WB. I'd install that before anything else.
--Alex

tyson87

iTrader: (6)

looks like an ebay manifold to me...

Bassmachine

If your going for cheap you can have an exhaust shop make you a manifold or you can buy a DIY Mani. But charge piping is indeed a must. Also you should check all the electronics or have someone who is familiar with the equipment check it. I'd rather have a burnt out fmu instead of a blown engine.

AlexO35

iTrader: (7)

Yea, didn't see the pics the first time. Does look like an eBay manifold. Gunna have to plan its replacement / repair when you put it in. I'd try to get that copy of Maximum Boost thrown it too. That's a gotta have for DIY.
--Alex

subikid

ok he does have the ic piping

I am getting the max boost

I am going to have this done by the end of the day.

Going to buy right now, will post up in an hour when I get back!

One day turbo build ftw!

Kev

Bassmachine

Good luck but dont hammer it first thing lol.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

In for the above daily status updates. If you can start from scratch and finish within 24 hours, I'll GIVE you a set of 1.8 injectors. Just pay $5.00 for shipping. We need a build thread with a start time and finish time, running on your 1.6 injectors. Video of you driving would be nice.

subikid

OK first question... and yep, searched this too.

I'm trying to install the vortec fmu. It has a line tap going into the bottom of the unit, a tap on the side, and a vac on top.

Question is, what goes where? There are two fuel lines, top and bottom. Which one is which?

I'm about to delete A/C and tap my oil pan. Any advice?

Last (for now), the vortec is set for 12:1. I am running stock injectors for now, ordered 1.8 injectors and am searching for the 8:1 diaphram for the fmu. Is the 12:1 ok to run for a little while at a max of 8 lbs?

Kev

messiahx

iTrader: (2)

At 8 psi, the 12:1 fmu will try to add 96psi to your stock fuel pressure ~45 psi. Since you're probably still on the stock fuel pump, you'll only get ~80 psi, if your pump is working great. 8lbs sounds like it might be a bit of a stretch with 1.8 injectors, but someone smarter than me will chime in, I'm sure.

On the fuel rail, the line feeding off of the stock FPR (at the back of the fuel rail) is the return line. You will want to install the FMU into that line.

Al Hounos

wow, people still use bandaids? i thought everyone would start with MS by now.

Bassmachine

Yes this thread will be ftw if this works.

subikid

so far i'm at FTL levels.

Stupid f#@%ing weather has been horrendous. I got all the way to...

removing A/C. That's it.

I need opinions on tapping the oil pan, I haven't searched yet though so I'm going to do so right now.

I've read almost the whole max boost book though, that's the upside of the crappy weather.

Kevin

PS: I don't have a garage btw. And the shop I usually go to and work on my car in won't let me do the install there for liability reasons (understandable).

Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

I didn't remove my A/C that was unessassary. I jacked the car up and actually need the A/c to gauge how low I needed to drill.

You need to read Flying miatas instructions, That will tell everything.

Make sure you wrap tape around the end of the drill bit so you don't drill to far.

subikid

Thanks for the post!

I'm going to tap the pan when the weather clears up. Did my research, found my answers.

This o2 clamp you all speak of... wha?

Kev

zoomin

iTrader: (16)

In to see how you will get either of those inter coolers to work, or most of the other parts for that matter.

Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

Well as far as injectors. Your 1.6L should be good for 7 psi. But the question is, what is the ratio of the disk in the FMU? It may not be. Mine that came with the stock greddy kit won't supply enough pressure to go over 5psi.

To really tune safely you need a Wideband {NOT NARROW BAND!!!!}Sensor and gauge.

But I have uped mine without the guage. But I also have a adjustable fpr.

Anyway if the car acts like it doesn't want to excellerate. you are probably lean. If you hear nock or studder LET OUT! OF THE THROTTLE!.

And as far as the 1.8L injectors. They would probably support the 6 psi without changing the disk. (Saying it is the stock greddy disk).

NOW the conscern is, what are you doing for timing? Just run 5psi if you don't have a MSD or a BIPES. I 'd start at 8 degrees of timing base, and work my way to ten if possible.

If you have a msd or bipes you can run your timing at 14, for 5 psi..

But if you set your timing at 8 degrees you should be good for 6 psi anyway.

You really need a wideband O2 to know for sure though.

The O2 clamp is a device that stops the computer from pulling gas durring the transition to boost.

Some cars have a problem with it. some cars don't. You will know if this happens. The lean condition and studder will happen.

jedduh01

iTrader: (4)

Looking at your buy list.. you might want to run NON intercooled just to get running.

I work for Volvo., ive seen,held, inspected and thought CAN THIS INTERCOOLER work on my miata? I honestly do not think so. the IN and OUT will be exactly where frame rails are on the MIATA, its larger than the miata radiator too. The other IC included looks like a headache to plumb up.

Research a greddy kit, and replicate their attack for running non intercooled. LOW boost application.

Seems to be your fastest way on the road.

GOODLUCK