You guys have been using my 'How to MS your DSM' article for quite a while now so I decided it's high time you had your own

Check it out, how to build your own DIY MegaSquirt solution for your Miata:
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...azda_miata.htm

Let me know if you have any changes/updates/additions etc so we can work through any remaining details to come up with the authoritative source of info, in one place.

 

Perfect timing ;-)

 

Very very nice. Thanks for the time and effort, I'll try to get working on my asap...

 

Jerry,

there are two types of cam+crank angle sensors on the Miata: The optical and the magnetic. Both provide *2* signals on the inner track (ring), which is the CMP signal - not just one.

I also had to remove D1 & D2 (and jumper them with wires) to have my CAS (magnetic type) properly recognised. Then again, I'm not sharing mine with the stock ECU (retrofit).

Last of all: "Spark Output to factory DSM ignitors" should be changed to "Spark output to factory Miata ignitors".

Jim

 

Fixed that DSM remnant

On that magnetic CAS... Hall Sensor or toothed wheel with VR sensor? Specific to certain years?

 

Looks good, I'm glad I got my stuff from DIYAT.

500 squirt 'n spark 'n boost miles so far.

 

Hall Sensor, '94-'97, 1.8 only. Exact same timing as the '89-'93 1.6 optical unit.

 

Thank you! I need to get my *** in gear and order the damn MS already. (well i have been too broke lately.) I have been following the posts about it for months. I posted in your thread on miata.net (as Mike L). Any idea how much you would sell a premodded miata ready fuel and spark MS?

 

mine bought and arrived from your side of the pond last weekend, built the Stim, and an just filing the case/board to fit as I type. I'm a little worried I've no way of testing the Stim tho....

I need a Stim for the Stim.... ;-)

Decided to do a build log on the UK MX5/Miata/Roadster forum i frequent

http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=17029

 

Lol ... I have megasquirt assembled and modded, wiring harness, wideband and controller, Gm AIT/CLT sensors (probly not use the clt though) ... and no freaking laptop!! I should just go ahead and splice it in anyways since it is for my project car after all.

Foundsoul, thank you very much for the work you are doing!

 

can you not pick up a 2nd hand one from some classifieds for ~$50?

 

ya there are cheap laptops out there, but i havnt found exactly what im looking for. Ive been looking around but been kinda picky wanting something at least 500mhz or so and 100 bucks or so and so far no luck on craigslist and ebay. Ill probably end up just borrowing one from someone for temporary. Anyway weve gotten off topic now

 

Ordered the pieces needed for this. I'll start soldering it up when it arrives and try to get my plug/play harness together also. I'm very very much looking forward to this project.

Thanks to all who have helped make this stuff much much simpler with their documentation.

 

Has anyone tried the igintion mod that DIY did on the LED side on the 1.6L. If thats the same config as the DSM ignitor it won't work. (At least it didn't when I tried)

 

Kingofl337,

We just got a '90 Miata with the 1.6 up and running yesterday using the hardware mods described on our site. You will need to set Spark Output Inverted to No. We will correct the picture on our site to reflect this.

 

Do the LED's work with this output?

 

That's correct-- Justin Gray brought his car over yesterday for some testing, and it actually started first try using the hardware mods we have listed, so we didn't see any need to remove the transistors or anything else like that. We tested the Spark Output inverted setting and found the ignitor got up to about 135F with it set to Inverted, it turns out that non-inverted (normal) is the proper setting for this car at least. We dialed in the base timing and tuned idle AFR and had it purring pretty good. Unfortunately later in the day (after swapping back to the stock ECU) his ignitor went out on him. Probably had to do with it getting hot when that Spark Output inverted setting was wrong, so we're going to replace that and then move on to dialing it in.

 

Yep-- the LEDs work just fine. We've got a couple things to look into still, but nothing major.

 

Something that may work just as well. Is replacing R26 & R29 with as large of a resistor as you can run and still get the transistor to switch. Then connecting a 330ohm resistor inline with the jumper wire soldered directly to the top of R26 & R29.

Just so you know I had timing running "correctly" on my 91 on a few diffrent pull up schemes and eventually I ended up frying 2 ignitors and my tach. As the 90-93 get thier tach signal from the ignitor.

 

Why do you use a 12V pullup for the CKP Signal?
The orginal workshop manual says, that there is either 0 or 5V on this pin. (like the CMP-Signal).

And it works with a pull-up to 5V instead of 12V. So whats the reason for a pullup to 12V?