1.6 rear end on a 40k mile turbo (160k total)
Running 8psi?
Am I nuts to consider buying this car? If its lasted running 8psi I guess it means the owner didnt drive like a moron? He seems pretty honest about everything. I know I would have to replace it very soon and it will be about $1k. Just want a second opinion. |
it doesn't have to cost $1K to upgrade, and it won't necessarily blow if you don't abuse it.
I spent $250 on a complete torsen assembly from a local junkyard, $100 on axles, and $50 for a driveshaft. then i sold the stock parts for $300. So 90% less than you suggested it will cost. |
Ive seen package deals on here for 600 before.
Biggest determining factor on its reliability will be how its treated. Baby it and it should last long enough for you to save up for a real rear end. |
I'm not going to lie...mine stood up to over a year of serious abuse at 12psi....and atleast 50K miles. Car already had 230K miles on it before going turbo.
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I still have mine going at 160,000 miles. 20 thousand on low boost. Before i read up on miata's, I would slam it in first and stand burn with 16in wheels. I still beat the shit out of it (stock wheels now) lol! I did at least 25-30 1/4 runs last year (14 sec passes) with hard launches.
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I like to believe that I'm one of the guys who got a "lucky" pumpkin to come off the assembly line. Because iv seen my friend break his with just a 1.8 motor swap with bolts on
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My 1.6 lsd has over 200k total miles including the last 18k at low boost, and it's holding up well.
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You don't tell us enough about the car. 8psi could be 150whp or 250whp... give us more info.
If it's street-driven responsibly, 200whp is no big deal. But 200whp drifting and doing drag-launches spells trouble... especially if there's some decent rubber out there. I put about 100k miles on a 1.6 dif between 180-220whp and was what I would call "street abusive"... but no drifting or clutch-drop launches. And that was all on 195series Toyos T1S/T1R, so not too sticky, but not stock either. Tell us more about the car, link the ad, post pics, put up a build list... making a buying decision on a 100% dead-easy cheap repair/replace item doesn't make sense to me. |
thanks everyone! Makes me feel better. I got a quote from a miata specialist and it was 1.5k to upgrade to a 1.8, that included everything.
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 693975)
it doesn't have to cost $1K to upgrade, and it won't necessarily blow if you don't abuse it.
I spent $250 on a complete torsen assembly from a local junkyard, $100 on axles, and $50 for a driveshaft. then i sold the stock parts for $300. So 90% less than you suggested it will cost.
Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 694100)
I'm not going to lie...mine stood up to over a year of serious abuse at 12psi....and atleast 50K miles. Car already had 230K miles on it before going turbo.
Originally Posted by mike_671
(Post 694978)
I still have mine going at 160,000 miles. 20 thousand on low boost. Before i read up on miata's, I would slam it in first and stand burn with 16in wheels. I still beat the shit out of it (stock wheels now) lol! I did at least 25-30 1/4 runs last year (14 sec passes) with hard launches.
Originally Posted by mike_671
(Post 694980)
I like to believe that I'm one of the guys who got a "lucky" pumpkin to come off the assembly line. Because iv seen my friend break his with just a 1.8 motor swap with bolts on
Originally Posted by samnavy
(Post 695090)
You don't tell us enough about the car. 8psi could be 150whp or 250whp... give us more info.
If it's street-driven responsibly, 200whp is no big deal. But 200whp drifting and doing drag-launches spells trouble... especially if there's some decent rubber out there. I put about 100k miles on a 1.6 dif between 180-220whp and was what I would call "street abusive"... but no drifting or clutch-drop launches. And that was all on 195series Toyos T1S/T1R, so not too sticky, but not stock either. Tell us more about the car, link the ad, post pics, put up a build list... making a buying decision on a 100% dead-easy cheap repair/replace item doesn't make sense to me. This is what has been done to the engine GReddy Turbocharger 305cc injectors Head ported Innovate Wide Band O2 + gauge 2core aluminum radiator. Bowser Heat Shield BRPerformance Bipes ACU 2.5" Enthuza Turbo Exhaust 2.5" Racing Mazda Downpipe Jackson Racing High Flow Cat Stripes Intercooler Pipes 18x12x2.5 Intercooler Greddy Type RS BOV K&N Air Filter BEGi AFPR Walbro 190 Fuel Pump TrackDog Radiator Cowl Cover SPEC Stage 2 Clutch Braided Clutch Lines |
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