Sorry, i didnt say Ms3x. thats what i meant xD - https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...-57-assembled/
And i really appreciate the help from you and all the others that have been contributing as well.

 

I'm starting to see a pattern. I wonder if OP is picking up on it

 

I can see it And yes i do need to read more about it.

 

We aren't trying to be dicks here. We just cannot give you one on one line by line help with every single question you haz about turbo. It wouldn't be fair to anyone.

 

I completely understand. I know I need to read and research more myself. I just need to know what to read for, and thanks to all of you guys im able to.
Time to read more about pistons and rods xD

 

It sounds like you have a fair understandingof the cost to turbo, so you are a bit further ahead of most new people.

 

Thanks yea I got a great deal on my miata $2000 with 130k miles I knew it was going to be a pretty penny to be almost near double the hp it makes stock. My dad had a ls1 at his work and I should have taken it... it was rebuilt with 80k miles for $500

 

The cost of the LS motor is not the expensive part of the LS swap at all.

 

I know I was just saying how great of a deal that engine was.

 

Okay, so I did some reading on the first step to my project, the megasquirt. Should I setup the sequential injector and spark first before all other aspects of the turboing of the miata. Or should I add that later on in the build. In other words is it necessary to do first.

 

You want sequential fuel for sure. Sequential spark is not doable on the stock coils. If you move to Toyota cops, or LS2 coils then switch to sequential spark.

 

Do more reading. You're still asking really green questions.

But I'll throw you a bone: yes. if you're building your own ms, you want EVERYTHING because it's silly and pointless to have to go back in later to add features and functions.

You want ms3x, you want seq fuel and spark (because reasons), you want ebc, you want other things too depending on what your goals are. You want to build the unit, install it with a wideband, and REALLY learn how to make it work properly and tune your car properly. that takes a long time for a 1st time user. after that, you're ready to consider other mods.

 

really really really

spend a lot of time in the build threads section. You really need to read through a bunch of builds.

If you're doing daily driving and you're really good with <300 whp then you really don't need to do anything other than stock pistons. Just know that you have to be that much more careful when tuning. My car has forged pistons and I'd happily daily it as far as the engine is concerned, but stock pistons are easy and cheap. All of this advice is very well documented. You really just need to spend a lot more time reading through build threads and such on here. It will serve you MUCH better than just getting answers to questions, because you'll see and understand the WHY.

 

So, I decided to do a compression test (ill do a leak down test later it started pouring cause, Florida...) and here are my results... https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
made it fancy and put it in a spreadsheet . And when you take a look at that you'll see that cylinder 1 & 3 have much higher values, the reason is because there is a lot of oil in that cylinder so its acting as a wet test. But, as for 2 & 4 I didn't see much of any oil on the plugs other than dried up oil (gunk). Keep in mind this car has 133k miles. Are those values,for my mileage and everything, decent? Also here is a picture of my spark plugs, they were pretty nasty, a lot of gunk and what appears to be bits of sand. In the picture I layed them out in order starting from the left. also i just changed the oil about 1 month ago so they shouldn't be this dirty right?

 

must complete leakdown. Compression is a tiny part of the story.

 

Oil changes have absolutely nothing to do with spark plug cleanliness. The picture posted shows well, just about every part of the plug that doesn't matter, and yet obscures the one part we need to see: the electrode, ground strap and insulator. The sand may be just that, from inside the plug well in the head and valve cover. You should really blast them out with compressed air after you've removed the plug wires, but before you remove the plugs to blow out any dirt or loose debris so it doesn't get in your motor. It also looks like you VC is leaking into all the plug holes, or someone missed the oil filler and it oil spilled into the center valley of the VC and then into the plug wells.

 

Okay, ill do just that. Ill go take pictures of the Electrode, ground strap and insulator while i get myself a compressed air can. Also i just got my valve cover gasket replaced during the oil change... but anyways ill be back.

 

Plugs are already a out, its too late to blow the wells out. And if you do It know with no plugs installed, youll just blow even more **** into the engine via the plug holes. SSTTAAHHPPPP!!!!

 

I put the plugs back in earlier I cleaned them the best I could with a microfiber. I wasn't going to blow it when they were out.. I need to pull them again to take a picture that's why I was going to blow it before I took them out again.

 

I hate being dumb about cars... Lol if you ask me anything about building computers I know.. cars are a whole other story.