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Hi guys! This is my first post as a user but I wanted to thank this forum for convincing me that a Miata was the right car for me (95 Montego blue with 100k miles, clean title, California bay area). I have no real car experience but a ton of mechanical/engineering experience outside of cars, and I have about 3k to spend on upgrades. I might autocross the car in the future but my current plan is to build it into a street build (doesn't have to be a comfortable dd since my family has other cars which are much more gas efficient) and make the handling amazing. Currently, I want to get it on coils like Tein Flex Z's and get some larger wheels (15x7) but any recommendations would be great. Also, 1k out of the 3k is from my mom for "interior and safety" so stuff like bucket seats, roll bar even though that might not be the best use of the money.
Skip the Teins. Get some Xidas set up with street spring rates (ask Ed at 949 Racing /Supermiata for help) or build your own budget Bilstein arrangement with 450/300 spring rates using info from the huge budget Bilstein thread on this forum. Get the Racing Beat front sway bar (ask Ed or read the Bilsteins thread).
Upgrading the suspension is the single most important thing you can do to the car. Period. You will spend on it but the difference will be felt every time you drive it.
Most shocks in Miata fitment are absolute trash and will make you hate the car and your life. Tein, Koni, KYB, and all of the rebranded Chinese shocks are not valved for the Miata and are going to ride like hot garbage.
As for safety, don't remove the stock steering wheel and airbag and don't remove the stock seatbelts and exchange them for harnesses. They are a system that is safer and works well together. Harnesses need a head and neck restraint system that requires a helmet to be safe. Stock belts have breakaway stitching that decelerate you in a controlled fashion and assist the airbag. There are pics on the site of a low speed impact into a tree ON A DRIVEWAY in a Miata with an aftermarket steering wheel and the driver was mangled by it and required several surgeries.
As for seats, many aftermarket choices don't fit into a Miata well. Every body type is a bit different and it is good to sit in many different Miatas before deciding on one. And you really should sit in one for an hour to see if you really want it. What feels good for 30 seconds may feel different after some time. I enjoy the Kirkey Pro-Drag (or whatever they are called) in 17 inch width. Other people have their favorites.
Just be sure you feed the stock lap belts through the lap belt holes in the seats and not around the outside of the seat side bolsters. You need the lap belts to hold you downward and rearward with the belt firmly below yor hip bones. If the belt catches you above the hip bones you will rupture your internal organs in a frontal collision. No joke there.
If you mount an aftermarket seat and add a rollbar, ensure that the seat back is braced per manufacturer's instructions. Otherwise it will flex rearward if you are rear ended and the rollbar can kill you.
NEVER use a rollbar without the special high density padding designed as rollbar padding. Pool noodles don't work. They aren't dense enough. Choose a rollbar that has one or two diagonal supports. It will likely be track day legal and will retain its value if you ever need to sell it. There are many design variations from each of the manufacturers, Hard Dog, Boss Frog, Blackbird.
Before you do anything else: You need to have a hard debate with yourself - since you live in CA, especially in the BA, how street legal do you want to keep this vehicle? While handling and chassis modification aren't nearly as regulated as power-train modifications in CA you should study and understand the restrictions you may end up facing. I wish you the best, Sir - owning and driving one of these cars is a joy.
i would start with:
roll bar (500)
tires
a good suspension as sixshooter mentioned.
leave stock seats or upgrade to NB1 seats, goo buckets seats will cost you half your budget.
leave the stock seatbelts, harnesses are nt street legal and could get you a ticket for improper equipment.
a nice front roll bar and exhaust and spend the rest in gas, you gonna need it
All excellent advice posted above, especially the BBB suspension.
Are you able to work on the car yourself? If so, spend $500 on tools if you dont have them already. One trip to a mechanic for something that's easily done yourself will blow that budget quickly.
edit:vvvv I read the op to mean he's mechanically inclined but doesn't have experience working on cars. I always ask folks if they have a garage/covered driveway that they can use if they are looking at an NA/NB. $500 at HF during a good sale can get you a jack, stands, sockets and an impact. Pays for itself after a job or 2.
i think all these questions should be prefaced with "so, i have x amount of mechanical experience....."
Originally Posted by mrejda
All excellent advice posted above, especially the BBB suspension.
Are you able to work on the car yourself? If so, spend $500 on tools if you dont have them already. One trip to a mechanic for something that's easily done yourself will blow that budget quickly.
Upgrading the suspension is the single most important thing you can do to the car. Period. You will spend on it but the difference will be felt every time you drive it.
As for safety, don't remove the stock steering wheel and airbag and don't remove the stock seatbelts and exchange them for harnesses. They are a system that is safer and works well together. Harnesses need a head and neck restraint system that requires a helmet to be safe. Stock belts have breakaway stitching that decelerate you in a controlled fashion and assist the airbag.
Just be sure you feed the stock lap belts through the lap belt holes in the seats and not around the outside of the seat side bolsters. You need the lap belts to hold you downward and rearward with the belt firmly below yor hip bones. If the belt catches you above the hip bones you will rupture your internal organs in a frontal collision. No joke there.
If you mount an aftermarket seat and add a rollbar, ensure that the seat back is braced per manufacturer's instructions. Otherwise it will flex rearward if you are rear ended and the rollbar can kill you.
NEVER use a rollbar without the special high density padding designed as rollbar padding. Pool noodles don't work. They aren't dense enough. Choose a rollbar that has one or two diagonal supports. It will likely be track day legal and will retain its value if you ever need to sell it. There are many design variations from each of the manufacturers, Hard Dog, Boss Frog, Blackbird.
Skip the Teins. Get some Xidas set up with street spring rates (ask Ed at 949 Racing /Supermiata for help) or build your own budget Bilstein arrangement with 450/300 spring rates using info from the huge budget Bilstein thread on this forum. Get the Racing Beat front sway bar (ask Ed or read the Bilsteins thread).
thanks so much for the input. Because of budget restrictions, how do you feel about MeisterR Zeta Crds? I’ve heard pretty good things on the forum and they seem like a decent deal for 1200.
I read the op to mean he's mechanically inclined but doesn't have experience working on cars. I always ask folks if they have a garage/covered driveway that they can use if they are looking at an NA/NB. $500 at HF during a good sale can get you a jack, stands, sockets and an impact. Pays for itself after a job or 2.[/QUOTE]
got it right here. I have access to a very large driveway (albeit with a steep entrance but flat on top) a 3 car cover garage and most tools (torque wrench, jacks, impacts, sockets. I do need to get some stands though
thanks so much for the input. Because of budget restrictions, how do you feel about MeisterR Zeta Crds? I’ve heard pretty good things on the forum and they seem like a decent deal for 1200.
You will find no love on this site for any suspension except a DIY Bilstein/adjustable sleeve/2.5" spring combo, or, Xidas. M.net is where you should pose this question.
I built my Bilstein shocks for around 900, which includes aftermarket rear top hats providing 1" additional travel. Spring rates of 450/300. Set up is pretty sweet. Get some 15x8 wheels from Goodwin with Conti 205's, and you are just under 2K.
thanks so much for the input. Because of budget restrictions, how do you feel about MeisterR Zeta Crds? I’ve heard pretty good things on the forum and they seem like a decent deal for 1200.
Meisters are a great entry level option.
I wouldn't invest in a suspension before you are familiar with the car's limits and yours.
I would get a good set of tires (not too sticky), and some advanced driving courses before any other mod.
Find and buy a good quality helmet that is comfortable for you
Keep the car perfectly stock (for now) and attend local autox (take training) - as pointed out above 'learn the current capabilities of the car and your driving limits'
Read up on DiY Bilsteins and buy the necessary equipment (including tools) to dive into your first modification - one that has a ton of readily available reference material (plus, this line-item will let you know if you enjoy working on the car)
Dial in and drive new suspension (return to autox/training), then decide if you enjoyed the experience so far - if 'yes' start figuring out what you'd like to do next (tires/wheels, brakes, frame stiffening, etc.), if 'no' congratulate yourself on doing the right thing and figuring out this might not be the hobby for you
Doing all of the above (open to input/corrections from others) will keep you under $3k and start you in this hobby in a structured manner. Again, I wish you the best as you begin your (hopefully) love affair with your car.
thanks so much for the input. Because of budget restrictions, how do you feel about MeisterR Zeta Crds? I’ve heard pretty good things on the forum and they seem like a decent deal for 1200.
I would not buy them. The shock damping curve is what is important. Most Chinese aftermarket shocks like those have a very rough, jittery ride that doesn't maintain grip over uneven surfaces and rough pavement. Additionally, they generally rattle your teeth. To the uneducated, a jittery ride seems "sporty" but the lack of compliance causes the tires to bounce from high spot to high spot rather than following the irregularities and remaining in contact with the pavement to help you corner, stop, and go.
The Xidas and Bilsteins have strong low speed damping to reduce float and help to plant the car. But the digressive valving allows the tire to move quickly over rough patches without unsettling the car while maintaining contact for control. If you study shock dynamometer tests of various brands and valving you can see the differences. Trust me, if there was a better, cheaper option we cheapskates on this forum would be using them. We aren't Porsche guys.
Sixshooter absolutely nailed the response on this. I have only a couple things to add:
"Don't tune a sick car": sort out any deferred maintenance or previous-owner hack-jobs first. Has the timing belt been replaced? It's not a bad job if you can do it yourself, but if you have to pay someone to do it, it'll quickly cut into your budget.
Where are you in the Bay Area? There are several members around the Bay who could be local resources for you, including myself. Add it to your profile please!
3k first upgrades recommendations
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