84-85 RX7 GSL Differential
 

Better or worse than a torsen? Comments much appreciated. :)

Is clutch type LSD. Is what I run. Is da bomb.


Different beast than the torsen, might require a rebuild. When any torque is applied to the driveshaft it locks.

clutch type > torsen

period.

What do you mean might require a rebuild? Can't I just swap in the pig, pinion, and ring gear (after figuring out how to set the backlash) in my miata differential housing?

clutch type lsds are rebuildable- when they wear out, you replace the "friction" disks.

ive had both a torsen and a clutch type diff in an f body and i like the clutch type better it just has a tighter feel.

Well, how many miles do you have to have on them usually before rebuild? How do you go about rebuilding? How much does it cost?

Also, I just need the pig, right?

from now on, refer to pig as the LSD. But yes, that's is all you would need.

You would bolt your ring gear onto it and drop it in, then adjust the backlash and reinstall.


they sometimes require rebuilds as the use multiple clutch plates to lock, so just as the clutch in the tranny wears, so can these....I was lucky with mine, clamps like the dickens, others not.

But how many miles ballpark estimate until it wears out? If I did have to rebuild it, where would I get the plates and how much would they cost? What all is involved in replacing them?

That is what I run and you can shim them a little tighter to get more lockup. It feels better than the Torsen in my other car that will allow the wheels to spin if you happen to get one rear off the ground in a high G situation.

hackerchris - you've got to start doing some searching. All this (and most of the other stuff you ask) is readily available information. :bang:

Not just searching, but you also don't need 3 threads when 1 would do.

read this.. then reread it .. read it a thrid time..

http://members.aol.com/solomiata/MiataVLSD.html

then search Miata.net and here with the terms used on that page to answers your questions, if this still doesn't answer them then form a specific question and make a post.


1337hax0rChris please start doing some searching on your own before posting. You are lucky they haven't banned you. I have a feeling you aren't going to get many more posts like this without getting sent to the corner (with dunce cap) for a while.

the RX7 LSD questions have been asked elventybillion times and is all over this forum and miata.net.

So where on that does it say how much it costs for replacing the friction plates and how to do it? You find me a thread and I will gladly admit I am stupid. And the point of this thread was to get input from the members on the forums, HERE. Not miata.net. Definitely doesn't constitute banning.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=200846

6 M020-27-258 -FRICTION PLATE $17.05 $102.30
2 M020-27-256 - WASHER $23.60
$47.20
AND
2 M020-27-257 - WASHER $23.60
$47.20
TOTAL $196.70



Now STFU and listen to someone giving you good advise. You think i'm joking about you getting banned then keep on asking stupid questions without doing any research.. i'm not saying this to be mean.. i'm trying to fucking help you..

Now slow your roll and do as your told newbie.

Alright alright, chill out, my point was that this information was no where on THIS site, and I would rather learn from people on here because they do stuff right when they build a setup

For some reason and i'm not certain why you don't seem to get the idea that this isn't the only website on the internet.

Google it up cocksucker!


Please keep fighting, it always cracks me up when a newbie gets banned for being an asshat. I'm totally calm I only used expletives because you didn't seem to be grasping English without them.

So, next time I want the opinion of miataturbo members, I am suppose to ask google? I understand I could have found prices from there. I found some on rx7club.com, but I wanted to know what the other people from here thought. Shopping around includes talking to people too. It wasn't like I asked "what is a clutch style lsd"? That would have been a noob question. I really don't see the entire problem you have with me for asking an opinion question, and asking how much the rebuild would cost in an attempt to get an idea of what a good price is.

Those aren't opinion questions- that's a request for information readily available with a search on any Miata site and google.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/search.php

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19691

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19475

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19708

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19749

1337Chris,

A tip- if you know that you can get fact based knowledge like prices and such- find them- mention in your post that you've bloody found them and then you can ask something like - "is this example price reasonable". At least that show some small amount of effort on your part.

Your approach shows that you know nothing and don't care to figure things out on your own- that's an approach much better suited to miata.net, so that's why we sent you there.

Ok, that answer I can deal with. I will post what I found next time first so everyone doesn't think I didn't search at all.

THINK you didn't search at all? I KNOW you didn't. Your post are not asking for opinions or advice on a controversial specific application. Read your post above! You failed to search. There is no denying it. Admit you did not search, don't say you did. Don't pretend you did.

Come on, how many people are jumping all over you about this?

Braineack
m2cupcar
patsmx5
ben
Mx5-4me
fussball.biturbo

All said your asking stupid newb questions, and that you failed to search. Nobody's believes you searched. You didn't.

I search things, but I don't look at every freakin site on the web. I second guess myself on everything I do, and don't believe everything I read on every website. Personally I would rather double check, and triple check everything with people that I can actually talk to before going ahead and doing something myself. Do you not agree there are plenty of people out there that thing they know what they are doing with cars but don't? Do you not agree there are tiny mistakes that can happen when you do performance mods that could cost you the entire project? I want to do stuff right once, and only once. I don't like to waste anything. I want to make absolutely positively sure before I do something that there are people that I have talked to personally, that still have to this day what I am going to do, and have been there, and so I can learn from them what to do so I don't end up making a dumb mistake. Picking out parts for a turbo setup is not something to take lightly. And believing the same idiot's that buy stuff from MOSS, knowing full well it is knock off parts that break relatively soon in most cases, I would not be inclined to believe everything they say. I'm sorry to make such a ruckus out of all this, I just want to make sure to the utmost certainty that when I go a certain route, it is the best one, and I know exactly every last detail of what could happen, and what I should do to guarantee the perfect setup.

If it's this important to you please give us some sort of content and context in your threads.. Generic newb questions get a lot of folks on here pissy because we have spent hours and hours researching via the web or trial and error. You have to take some sort of personal responsibility and have a willingness to contribute to engauge people enough to respond with some sort of thought.


Otherwise you are just another jack hole looking for a free ride.

Your initial question was "better or worse than a torsen. "

Mind you this is your third differential thread.

Since you obviously searched before hand ;), it would seem you would ask more refined application specific questions. Perhaps:

• Is a RX-7 clutch type LSD physically stronger and more durable than a torsen?
• Is a RX-7 clutch type LSD offer better lockup characteristics for <insert your goal for the car, be it drag racing, auto-x, drifting, etc>? Which is preferred for my goal?
• Has anyone here shimmed a RX-7 clutch type LSD tighter than stock? What preload did you set it to?

Your questions were not of this type.

Now I do understand your perspective of second guessing everybody. I'm the same way. I don't accept something as fact just because it's common wisdom. For example I could argue several topics on cylinder head modification for our BP heads. Common wisdom is bigger valves. From all my research (actually buying books and reading them on cylinder head design, building, and modifying, as well as talking to several local bracket racers, and even speaking with the owner of a well know local speed shop), I have come to find bigger valves in our head is not neseccary. However, if you polled this forum, I guarantee you 95% of its members would say they are beneficial. Not because they have any knowledge or understanding of how it's going to affect flow and shrouding given our cam profiles, but because FM offers them, and everyone else does it.

If you want to make an informed decision, make use of your resources. mt.net isn't always the best place to get info. It's a great site, but it has it's shortcomings at times. Go to your local library and find a book or two that cover differentials, and learn the basics of how they work, what characteristics each type offer, and which characteristics are desirable for your application. If you find a clutch type LSD is for you, get another book on how to rebuild them and set them up differentials. You'll learn how to rebuild the LSD, as well as how to setup the rear end's preload, backlash, etc.

All this and you have not yet put a wrench to the car. You're simply educating yourself. By then you'll feel pretty confident you've made the correct decision, and probably feel confident enough to tackle setting up the rear end yourself. Then, you will KNOW it's right.

I have no problem trying to contribute. My specialized area is computers. I am a Comp TIA A+ Certified Computer Repair Technician, and in a month I will have my Network+ certification also, and plan on getting some more this summer. If there arises some sort of problem in that area I can help. When I get a chance I am going to make an exact copy of the 6 speed transmission manual that mazda technicians use to train on. That I know none of you have. And I know it would help anyone who has a 6 speed very much. I plan on starting on it sunday.

Again you totally missed my point.

I'm talking about YOU putting effort in the subject of your theads BEFORE you make it, so your questions aren't completely uneducated.

when i search "hackerchris" i come up with this...

http://cedros.globat.com/~thebrites....BananaFish.jpg

So I will post the exact links of what I found next time before I ask ANYTHING.

So I don't get further yelled at, here is a question I have, the site http://members.aol.com/solomiata/MiataVLSD.html

says you can identify a torsen by moving both half shafts in the same direction at once if the tranny is in neutral, and says if it can't be done it is a Type I. My question is, if the differential is not hooked up to the transmission, is it the same as being in neutral? I tried searching on google for something about a differential not hooked up being the same as neutral. In neutral the transmission is not in gear, but since the drive shaft would be hooked up still it would have some sort of resistance on the differential, and I don't know if that would play a part in the test of moving the half shafts or not.

Yes it's the same. They are only saying put it in neutral so you don't have to work against the engine.

When i searched "HackerChris", I got this.

http://www.adcglobal.org/images/boar...ain_hacker.jpg

Alright, thank you very much. I bought an 84 GSL LSD today with 68k miles on it. I am excited to get it. My service manual looks pretty intimidating for setting the backlash. I know that a lot of you have installed your own LSD before, but I have not. The only work I have done with my differential before is replace an axel seal that went into it from the passenger side, and change the oil to Redline, but anyone can do that. So, my question is, with setting the backlash, is it pretty straight forward with using the micrometer and just playing around with measurements till it lines up? Any special technique that helps save time that any of you have used?

There's a write up on miata.net that expains it VERY WELL. It's very well written. A very knowledgeable person wrote it. I would suggest that when setting it up, bring all tollerances down to the minimum factory spec. For example, if backlash is .0039 to .0057, set it for .0039. When I do mine, is will probably be a little tigher than factory spec as it makes the unit stronger and less likely to fail from high torque loads. However, too tight causes wear and can kill bearings. If you were building a car you trailered to the 1/4 mile, you would shim it very tight.

Well, if I plan on running 350 rwhp, should I rebuild it first? Not sure what my backlash should be for the perfect balance between having it be able to handle a high torque load, and maximize life of the clutch disks and bearings.

Remember when I suggest to get a book on differentials? :) I can tell you most of the answers. I'm not though. You gotta do the learning on your own. I can tell you my educated opinion on how you should set it up, but better you would form your own opinion first, then ask others for theirs to compare. You're getting better, but I can't tell you if you stock LSD needs a rebuild. Test it. How? Find out. You gotta learn all this shit on diffs anyway if you wanna do it yourself.

Ok, say I put it in how it is now. If it starts slipping sometime, as long as I take the differential out right away, I am not going to harm the pinion and ring and the differential housing in anyways, right?

No no no, that isn't what I mean. Like, if the bearings start to go, that keep the clutch disks in place, is it possible that the differential would come out of place and become completely ruined?