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Old 01-20-2015, 01:06 PM   #1
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Default Advice on used turbo setup

I have an opportunity to pick up a used turbo tonight but have no clue whether or not its worth my time. I guess it had the housing shaved and polished by a previous owner and supposedly only has 8K miles (2560) is there a way I can tell its really a 2560? It looks a little rough and the manifold needs the surface shaved. is it worth 475?

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Old 01-20-2015, 01:22 PM   #2
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That's an old FM cast manifold, it's a good one. The turbo looks fine, you can't do too much to a turbo to make it look pretty when it sees the temperatures that it sees. Send the pieces to be ceramic coated when you get them otherwise live with the looks.

Brand new, FM's manifold, downpipe, and cast DP elbow is $750+shipping. So you don't have the downpipe, but that's available from FM for $219+shipping:

Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : 1994-97 Flyin' Miata turbo downpipe (lower section)

Although if the downpipe elbow is as old as the manifold looks, I don't know if the new lower downpipe section will bolt up to the older cast downpipe piece.

But if it does, and you buy the $250 (est. shipping) lower downpipe peice from FM, you're getting the mani/elbow/dp for $25+shipping less than FM's DIY kit, and you're getting a free 2560 turbo. The $25 (+/-$20) should get both surfaces milled flat, a very important step to do while it's off the engine.
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Old 01-20-2015, 01:38 PM   #3
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Thanks curly. That is what I thought but still new to the miata and turbo scene. I'm picking it up tonight. It will be going on my exocet that is due to be shipped within the next week.
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Old 01-20-2015, 01:40 PM   #4
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Sounds good. Always negotiate, I wouldn't be surprised if he'd take $425 or $450 if $475 is his asking price. Never hurts to ask.

Have the flanges flattened and ceramic coat the dp elbow and manifold and you'll have a great looking and working setup. If you're worried about the turbo, gopopshop.com sells ~$99 turbo rebuild kits that'll make it like new, assuming no compressor or turbine blade damage.
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Old 01-20-2015, 02:03 PM   #5
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To tell if it's a realy 2560 ask for the a close up pic of the tag on the CHRA. I'd say it's a good deal. If the turbo has little to no shaft play then I'd say its a great deal.
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Old 01-20-2015, 04:14 PM   #6
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Grant are you in Portland?
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Old 01-20-2015, 07:21 PM   #7
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Yes I am Portland. Just picked the turbo and manifold up. There is some play in the turbo but its minimal. The manifold does seem warped which I'm sure is bound to happen with the heat. I assume the machine shop can take care of that? now its time of find some cheap injectors and a used mspnp.

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Old 01-20-2015, 07:34 PM   #8
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Very nice. Looking forward to seeing this completed.
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Old 01-20-2015, 07:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pdxocet View Post
Yes I am Portland. Just picked the turbo and manifold up. There is some play in the turbo but its minimal. The manifold does seem warped which I'm sure is bound to happen with the heat. I assume the machine shop can take care of that? now its time of find some cheap injectors and a used mspnp.
Clackamas Auto Store. Curly recommended them to me and they are wayyyy cheaper than anyone else I went to. Funny guys too.
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Old 01-20-2015, 07:49 PM   #10
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Clackamas auto store for the machine work? Do I need to have all of the manifold planed? as in turbo side and engine block side? Should I take off the rusted down pipe elbow or just leave that part? I am thinking its not worth ceramic coating. Maybe just some header paint on the rusted down pipe elbow. I am gonna order some new studs as well. I assume I should just get the good studs and locking hardware. I don't need huge power. I need reliability.
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Old 01-20-2015, 07:52 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Pdxocet View Post
Clackamas auto store for the machine work? Do I need to have all of the manifold planed? as in turbo side and engine block side? Should I take off the rusted down pipe elbow or just leave that part? I am thinking its not worth ceramic coating. Maybe just some header paint on the rusted down pipe elbow. I am gonna order some new studs as well. I assume I should just get the good studs and locking hardware. I don't need huge power. I need reliability.
Have them check it for flatness and surface it if needed. Get inconel studs. You can get 8mm OEM from Nissans I believe or drill out to 10mm and get either the TSE kit or I believe (need to search) rx7 studs.
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:31 PM   #12
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Yes Clackamas Auto Parts, tell them Josh sent you, Art (owner/machinist) might recognize my name, just tell him it's the Josh that brings a LOT of Miata engine parts in. That might jog his memory. Great guys.

Just have both surfaces planed, either one will be bad if they're warped, might as well.

Let me know if you need any help turbo'ing. My plates pretty full but I can offer as much assistance as I can.

As for the looks, have both bead blasted (I think CAP does that too), but I dunno if I'd bother with high temp paint. It'll fail within a week.
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:44 PM   #13
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When I said josh sent me he recognized the name. Awesome guy.
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