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Old 05-28-2008, 02:41 PM   #1
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Default air conditioning is wigged out

On my 1991 the AC turns on and off after about 5 minute cycles. The air is pretty warm, but when the clutch engages, its cool (not cold) for a couple minutes.

I see no bubbles in the glass viewer
the fan and clutch engage
my **** is the bomb


Should I start with a can of r12 and hope to re-pressurize the system?

Hopefully this works because my 1995 is doing the same thing. If it doesn't work, then I have an excuse to yank the AC.
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Old 05-28-2008, 03:07 PM   #2
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i wouldn't go just adding refrigerant without seeing what kind of pressures you have. you're probably low because you have a small leak somewhere.

does the clutch engage and stay on or is it intermittent?
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Old 05-28-2008, 04:08 PM   #3
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I'll check and get back to you.
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Old 05-28-2008, 06:57 PM   #4
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i had a honda and my chevy had the same problem. Turned out to be the expansion valve i believe and was not expensive. Trick though is finding an ac guy who doesnt want to rape you. I had 2 estimates on one of the vehicles that said it needed a compressor for a grand
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Old 05-28-2008, 07:32 PM   #5
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yeah most ac components (short of the compressor) are usually cheap. it's just the tools to find and fix problems that cost a ton of money.
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Old 05-28-2008, 09:05 PM   #6
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I'd really like to just yank the AC out of this car...
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Old 05-28-2008, 09:31 PM   #7
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do it. it doesn't get that hot in texas.
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Old 05-28-2008, 10:25 PM   #8
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For the record....i have a 95 that had a/c and power steering and completely removed both (just looped the lines for PS and remover everything else pertaining to it) in about two hours this evening..so its not like it's a big deal to do...
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Old 05-29-2008, 12:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChairFaceChippendale View Post
do it. it doesn't get that hot in texas.
I really hope that was a joke, or maybe you're just ignorant.


If you don't mind being a member of the sweaty back and swamp-*** club, by all means, remove your a/c. Oh and if you haven't pulled your PS already and want to retain it you'll have to get your hands on a new tensioner bracket. That's one of the reasons I haven't put my a/c back in yet. And yes, your **** IS the bomb.
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Old 05-29-2008, 01:13 AM   #10
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And if you do pull the a/c out, I want the compressor and condenser
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:31 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryce View Post
I really hope that was a joke, or maybe you're just ignorant.


can't it be both?
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Old 05-29-2008, 06:27 PM   #12
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Default My Theory On Miata A/c

Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
I'd really like to just yank the AC out of this car...
**** THAT ****!!!!!!!!!!! If the only way I could get an A/C in texas was to spend 30,000 dollars. I WOULD.

I hoped I reached you before you make that decision. I think the heat is getting to you. LOL. We will just add boost to make a differance. Hahahaha. Just a joke. Do it if you want too. I just like a/c.

Miata A/C:
Hook up your gauges. If the pressure is low just add some. It should fix it.
If adding freon doesn't raise pressure, and isn't leaking out, then you have a blockage or a bad expansion valve.


The freon should do the trick. Your not supossed to mix 134A with r12. But I did it. And it worked great for years. Eventually it will supposively eat the seals up. But the compressor is old anyway. The adapter is like $7.00. And you can get a can of 134A with a gauge at a part store for 19.00. You can reuse the gauge on the next can. Saving $$$$$$ haha

*******For the guys that want to do it right. You suposed to vacume it down to check for leaks and change the oil over to 134A oil, and add 134A freon.

I had one miata that had good freon pressure, blew ice cold, and would just stop. Sometimes you could turn it off and on, and it would work again. Sometimes not. It wound up being the pressure switch.

But if I were a betting man, I would say charge that baby like you want it.

Resale on the car in the summer with out a A/C would drop a $1000.00. Or you would set on it forever.

Last edited by Toddcod; 05-29-2008 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 05-29-2008, 06:54 PM   #13
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Well i forgot to post last night because I had some trim over. The fan and the clutch stay engaged.

Can I get r12, or do I have to do the 134 conversion? Its ******* hot today.

Its much cooler when I'm on the freeway, but when I'm stuck in traffic the air is hot as ****.
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Old 05-29-2008, 07:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Well i forgot to post last night because I had some trim over. The fan and the clutch stay engaged.

Can I get r12, or do I have to do the 134 conversion? Its ******* hot today.

Its much cooler when I'm on the freeway, but when I'm stuck in traffic the air is hot as ****.
It would be best to use R12. It is way colder. And your system was meant for it.
But you have to have a hook up or a license to get R12. And it is high $$$. compared to 134A. I have to carry my truck to a shop. If you find a shop here let me know. I only run R12 in my truck. I'm keeping it.

I don't keep cars long though. So I just add 134A to the R12 and drive it till I decide to sell it.
I sold a car I did that too, to a neihbor and he drove it for years with no problem.

It isn't recomended to not change out the complete oil and freon, but it will work.

If your car is cold on the highway you probably just need a can. I prefer R12 anyway.
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Old 05-29-2008, 07:22 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talusfan View Post
And if you do pull the a/c out, I want the compressor and condenser
Heh, I still have my old one from my NB...
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Old 05-29-2008, 07:28 PM   #16
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1993 and older have R12. So do you have any extra cans i could buy?????

1994 and newer are 134A. You can hook up your 95 model fast and cheap.

If you are DIY I wouldn't vacume anything if the A/C is working. I would just add freon. Try to get freon with oil in it, "if you can find it". Your freon carries the oil that lubricates your system.

For the 95 most 134A cans come with oil in them.

Last edited by Toddcod; 05-29-2008 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 05-29-2008, 10:39 PM   #17
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You can still get R12, there is plenty out there. I wouldnt switch to R134, that never cools correctly when put into R12 systems. I have OEM AC parts for many different year models laying around too if anyone needs some.
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Old 05-29-2008, 11:38 PM   #18
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fmic crew,

does your ac still work with the big fmic up front? I'm trying to talk myself into pulling the AC since I have a daily driver.
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Old 05-30-2008, 11:58 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miatanutz View Post
You can still get R12, there is plenty out there. I wouldnt switch to R134, that never cools correctly when put into R12 systems. I have OEM AC parts for many different year models laying around too if anyone needs some.

I can use a couple things if you want to pm about them.

I ripped most of mine out when I installed the i/c. Then moved to tennessee, now the a/c is looking a bit more attractive, and I can run a bit smaller piping I guess to make it fit this time.
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Old 05-30-2008, 01:20 PM   #20
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For you guys with R12 systems, just get your EPA 609 certification so you can legally buy it yourself. The test only costs $15 and it's open book so a six year old could pass. You get your license in the mail a week or two later. Then you can buy R12 off Ebay (seller should ask for your license number) for ~$20/can instead of paying $50+/can to your local A/C rapist. You more than recoup the cost of the license when you buy your first can. I took my test through MACS.
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