vs.

:giggle:

Also, while the cowl is supposed to be a positive pressure area- Has anyone actually tested the extreme edge of the cowl? Having walls on two sides in that spot might produce a deadzone.

I noticed that in the results and thought that category was a little silly.

Sorry if I've missed it, but what clutch are you currently running?

We had plenty of people laugh at us during our recent enduro race when they noticed our complete lack of hood venting. It's a huge item at the top of our list of shit to do.

You owe me a picture. :party:

LOL at a Randall cowl intake on a late NB. The factory CAI is probably more effective. You'll notice that the "dyno" Flyin' Miata uses to sell these was from an early 1.6 car (no factory CAI). Buyer beware.

And, seriously, an intake sized for a 130HP motor on Andy's 300HP car?

<p>Curly are you going to be running one of&nbsp;hummings vents too?</p>

I'm gonna cut some stuff at cost for Curly and GreddyGalant's enduro miata. :party:

Iknowright? I'm considering air sources in my build now and was contemplating an "NB" style hole below the headlight, fed from the fender and the boxing that area in to feed the filter. Perhaps that's the source to try next?

Any idea why? Even the factory shielded the exhaust at their power levels.

Andy is the belly pan under the engine in place? It needs to be there, it is part of extracting air from the engine compartment. The seal at the firewall to seal the hood helps too. Properly ducting to the rad is important as well, not only to cool the rad, but to direct the air in the right direction. These things need to be explored before venting the hood etc.

There are lots of threads about heat in MT forums.

That's nice.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436312032
Hi Andy,

Your car already has fog light holes, I suggest trying a system similar to this one on your K Miata:



https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436312032

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c3affdeb0f.jpg

That would be a bad idea for a few reasons

1. Your system will soak the filter when it rains
2. Those corrugated hoses flow approximately as much as a soda straw
3. Why use two intake when one will do
4. What Andy has is already really efficient

ewsmotors -

I see what you're going for there, but the 0.5% theoretical gain in "ram air" loses twenty-fold to the massive flow loss created by the accordion hose.

edit: Emilio beat me to it

Time to get this build moving again! Been playing with the CRX in NASA TT all summer, and just finished putting that one back into autocross trim for Solo Nats, so time to move back to the Miata. One Lap 2016 is only six months away!

Thanks for all the ideas, guys. In the end, I went with something proven to get the temps down, as this is how my CRX is plumbed. I'm headed to COTA tomorrow so I needed this done and effective.

Here's intake solution V3, achieved today. Cold air from the cavity behind the fascia, fed by the fog light hole and the slats in the wheelwell liner. I will fill the fog light hole when/if it gets driven in the rain.

The key enabler is use of 2001+ headlights, which use a later gen halogen bulb and have shorter housings. This exposes a hole in the chassis that Mazda later used for the Mazdaspeed Miata intercooler hose passage. A little die grinder action opened it up to 3" for our purposes, and we lined it with rubber to keep from digging into the thin intake tube. A Vibrant 180 U-Bend (#2869) was sliced in half and provided the perfect pair of bends to attach our K&N filter from the previous setup.

Big thanks to Keith Tanner at Flyin' Miata for the suggestion. Watching Craigslist, I scored this pair of working lamps from a partout for $100.

PS: I have not wired up the lights yet, but I have the pigtails so its just a matter of cut n' splice.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1441367101

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1441367101

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1441367101

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1441367101

Shit, this is baller; wish I saw earlier. Any reason you didn't want to run a K20A2 head for a hybrid setup?

Have you cut the front bumper to make them fit? Interested in seeing how you do it.

Because I am?

The good motor (300hp) is a CNC-ported K20A2 head on a sleeved K24 block, forged internals, 13:1, with big Kelford cams. Runs on E85. It will rev to 9000, though I keep it limited to 8500 and usually shift at 8300.

The mock-up motor is just a simple bone stock internals 06 TSX K24A2 that makes about 250 on pump premium. Rev limited to 8000 due to stock internals.

Yes.

Worked the car-center corner with a small hack saw and file. Also lopped off the outer thin tab of clear that sits just below the lens. And finally, I had to cut a couple thin support tabs off the back of the headlight assembly to clear the intake tube. Nothing major.