Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1236781)
Interested to see how those alignement numbers turn out. From what I've run into you're going to be getting the inside of the tires too hot, that much front camber would be faster than something that kept the temps even at an auto-x but man braking ability really nose dives at camber numbers like that so I wonder if it'll make road course times slower. And thats a lot of rear camber too. Be interesting to see if you have a different experience.
We shall see. Gotta start somewhere. My garage alignment targeting 3 ended up being at 3.4 once it went on a real rack. And braking was not a major issue in the little bit of track work I've already done with the car at 3.4. I suspect the final answer will be somewhere between 2.5 and 3 for street tires (224 Rival-S). But I won't really know until the ABS goes on the car. |
I'll be racing ChumpCar at NCM this weekend, hope to see you and the car there!
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It has been my experience that amount of camber, that much castor will be hard on ball joints. I think you are non power steering, so with a little less castor it will be easier to turn the wheel, less castor can up the bump steer a little tho.
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You guys do realize that you're giving alignment advice to Andy Hollis right...?
;) -Ryan |
Yea...but all he knows is silly FWD Honduhs!
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Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 1236914)
You guys do realize that you're giving alignment advice to Andy Hollis right...?
;) -Ryan |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1236781)
Interested to see how those alignement numbers turn out. From what I've run into you're going to be getting the inside of the tires too hot, that much front camber would be faster than something that kept the temps even at an auto-x but man braking ability really nose dives at camber numbers like that so I wonder if it'll make road course times slower. And thats a lot of rear camber too. Be interesting to see if you have a different experience.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1237077)
Funny. I saw those camber numbers and thought "Not enough front". :party:
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Running SM6s in 2013, I was running ~3.7* front camber with ISC bushings. Rear camber hovered in the 2.8-3.0* range.
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If you're having issues with too much heat on the inside corners, you need to drive harder. I was just told this twice at my recent track day, ~3.5* up front on Star Specs.
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Not to derail the thread, but I'm running:
-3.2 front -2.7 rear 5.0 caster 0 toe front 1/16" in rear 4.5" ride height. Its perfect. No issues braking hard with -3.2 degrees up front. |
^ Pretty much the same for me, but I zero the rear toe because I like to live dangerously like that.
-Ryan |
Originally Posted by Alta_Racer
(Post 1236907)
It has been my experience that amount of camber, that much castor will be hard on ball joints. I think you are non power steering, so with a little less castor it will be easier to turn the wheel, less castor can up the bump steer a little tho.
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1237077)
Funny. I saw those camber numbers and thought "Not enough front". :party:
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1237080)
You guys really run that much front on the road race cars?
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1237101)
If you're having issues with too much heat on the inside corners, you need to drive harder. I was just told this twice at my recent track day, ~3.5* up front on Star Specs.
I'm running -3.2 F and -2.6 rear on 205/50 on x8 with rivals. Pyrometer readings will show not enough front camber if i'm not driving hard enough. Hot days and hard driving will net 160-180 on inside shoulders with typical 15-20 degree splits to outside. Oddly enough, my shoulder wear is still iffy leading me to believe i could use even more front camber. Back to the thread... I freekin love seeing when there are updates to this thread. Thanks a ton for keeping it updated :party: |
6 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1236937)
Yea...but all he knows is silly FWD Honduhs!
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Ultimately, static camber settings are highly dependent on total roll angle of the car at max load. But the latter depends on vehicle weight, roll stiffness, cg height, track width, tire grip, surface grip, suspension geometry (camber gain), etc. So there is no "one size fits all".
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I wont comment on your camber settings because that is something you will have to read temperatures for and is based on other factors such as what tires and spring rates etc. depending on the track and conditions I usually near -3.8F -3.2R but I am on R7's and and effective aero.
I will say that you will likely get a massive shoulder workout running that much caster. I have found the sweet spot on my car to be in the 4.7 range. Any more than 5 and the steering gets really heavy. Edit: I failed to read the rest of the thread after you posted that you where running 6 degrees of caster and changed some other settings. oops you obviously know what you are doing and should be close to start |
Originally Posted by AndyHollis
(Post 1237144)
...and Miatas vvv
Slammed NA with ITBs, clubroaster detected :giggle: |
Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 1237197)
Slammed NA with ITBs, clubroaster detected :giggle:
This is a build thread...let's try and stay on topic, k? |
Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 1237197)
Slammed NA with ITBs, clubroaster detected :giggle:
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Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1237252)
My friend Neal is the current owner of that white car. The ITBs are no longer there, but it is otherwise one heck of a lightweight beast and really well put together. It's an inspiration, much like this build.
The suspension stayed much the same. It just worked. (Koni 2812's, Eibachs, custom offset Delrin bushings and the same bars I'm running now.) |
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