Looks fantastic.

Can't wait to see what it/you can do at Hallett this event.

 

Ooooh I like that. Makes the 18" wheels look a lot better too.

 

Agreed.. Could use some side skirt or tupperware action, too. Looks a little weird from a straight-on side shot.

 

Yeah spats for the rear tires would help with drag there. Car is looking great, looking forward to hearing about it going great as well!

 

Just got back from Harris Hill Raceway. The car as it stands is now in the same ballpark lap time as my One Lap CRX with the same motor, though they make time in different ways. The Miata is faster in corners due to larger rubber, better balance and more effective aero. The CRX is faster is a straight line because the wheels/tires are tons lighter and the shorter tires give better gearing on this track. Miata also currently suffering in the braking department...typical RF lockup. ABS goes on this winter, as well as ditching the non-ABS prop valve.

Other winter projects include:

• BW EFR 7163 on KMiata manifold tuned to make 450 at 8000 on E85
• Flex Fuel setup
• BMW 5-spd
• Getrag 3.23 rear diff
• bump steer corrrection (the big meats tramline horribly exacerbating the bump steer effect)
• a/c

Should keep me busy...

 

That's quite a winter list!

In regards to the lock-up, you have front-right lock-up issues?? Is this with a prop-valve on the rear lines? I've only had rear lock-up issues on track with my TTE miata, prop-valve on the rear lines has helped eliminate that.

 

I used to have the same issue with my CSP autocross Miata. The solution was to swap out the OE prop valve for a pair of unions...which is essentially the same thing as using the ABS "prop valve". The latter is merely a dummy with nothing inside...acts like a pair of unions.

ABS itself is going on to deal with inclement weather and surface irregularities, I already have all the parts.

Harris Hill is especially bad, since the track is typically run CW, and several heavy braking zones are while the car is still loaded up from a right-hand turn (T7 and T10). Have to brake earlier and easier to avoid the lockup.

 

Which system are you putting on? OEM?

--Ian

 

Yes. NB2.

 

FWIW, I'm pondering replacing the NB2 ABS in my car with an E46-based standalone, due to the NB2 one being too intrusive on a dry track.

--Ian

 

Put a switch on it to turn it off for dry (Emilio tip).

 

No seat heaters or coolers...I don't think Ann's going to like it as much as the McLaren or even the GT-R

 

A/c is the only thing she's really adamant about. And decent ride quality.

 

subscribing to thread

 

You shouldn't need the 7163 to make that power. Our EFR6258 on a stock head BP4W will make 370, Andrew is making 450whp on a stock BP5D head with the EFR6758 and that was running out of fuel. Probably closer to 470whp with enough injector. Our goal for the billet crank, CNC +2, cammed BP6D with the 6758 is 500whp. 7163 is overkill for your target IMO.

 

wouldn't the smaller turbine choke the exhaust from a high flow 2.4l, and wouldn't the 2.4l need more air volume to make positive manifold pressure. Im no turbo expert, just thinking out loud. I think the 7163 would be awesome for that car. Full Race matches the 7064 and up to their K series turbo kits.

 

I'm not sure it would hold that amount of flow on a proper flowing honda head and 8k of rpm. It will nose over
7163 would likely hold it all the way up

 

One of my One Lap buds is an engineer at Borg Warner and did the turbo match work. If you want to follow along...click here: BorgWarner MatchBot

This will be a bone stock TSX motor (K24A2), albeit with forged rods/pistons for durability. Stock cams, stock 10.5 compression, stock lower-flowing RBB head.

I am personally on a massive learning curve with turbo knowledge, so I'm relying on others.

 

 

i.e. Turbo sizing on crappy Mazda four cylinders is not the same as on Honda four cylinders...especially k-series.