Any Guys from the UK? My 1JZ in an MX5...
10-08-2012, 08:37 AM
#21
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Not sure to be honest until I drop it in later this week. What I have noticed is the Anti Roll bar sitting precariously towards the front of the engine bay so not sure whether this will have to be modded at all. I've managed to find a Front Sump set up for 70GBP (approx $100 US, I guess) so that's not worth the hassle modifying the original for that. I think it would have to sit way back in the firewall for a mid sump to clear the frame.
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10-09-2012, 03:35 AM
#22
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Update...
Just another quick update...
Had a couple of hours yesterday so continued with removing all of the wiring from the engine bay, and the headlights (who needs those anyway!) - Then decided to clean up the engine bay as I know she's picked up a little rust whilst being stood, but suprisingly not that bad.
I'll leave the body wiring for a later day I think, as the only things I'm likely to want to use is the lights, horn and indicators I guess, so I'll concentrate on getting the engine wiring done first and then retrospectively add the body wiring into the loom and make it nice and pretty.
90% the way through removing the diff, the huge girder that holds the diff in and the prop shaft. Thought it would be out last night as all the bolts seem to be out yet it miraculously appears not wanting to come out. I'll figure that out tomorrow, and then the engine should be going in for the first time !!
Had a couple of hours yesterday so continued with removing all of the wiring from the engine bay, and the headlights (who needs those anyway!) - Then decided to clean up the engine bay as I know she's picked up a little rust whilst being stood, but suprisingly not that bad.
I'll leave the body wiring for a later day I think, as the only things I'm likely to want to use is the lights, horn and indicators I guess, so I'll concentrate on getting the engine wiring done first and then retrospectively add the body wiring into the loom and make it nice and pretty.
90% the way through removing the diff, the huge girder that holds the diff in and the prop shaft. Thought it would be out last night as all the bolts seem to be out yet it miraculously appears not wanting to come out. I'll figure that out tomorrow, and then the engine should be going in for the first time !!
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10-11-2012, 04:08 AM
#23
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Update...
Well guys, this is the moment I've been waiting for for a while now. The first time the 1JZ engine is actually seated in the engine bay. So my observations at this stage give me an idea of how much effort of going to be needed over the course of this project.
The big issue is not it's length but how far it stands up with the current setup. It's probably 4 inches too tall at the minute!
Firstly, the frame gets in the way so I need either a front or back sump assembly, as I suspected. I think there is more room at the front so will probably opt for that one but the other problem is the anti roll bar gets in the way. This will either need removing all together as (I'm hoping) ARB's aren't that essential for drag racing but if the car goes on the circuit then it's going to be good to have one fitted. So maybe extended the current one so it would clear the front sump or some how move the brackets down that hold the ARB to the chassis or fabricate some new ones.
Exciting times to say the least !!
The big issue is not it's length but how far it stands up with the current setup. It's probably 4 inches too tall at the minute!
Firstly, the frame gets in the way so I need either a front or back sump assembly, as I suspected. I think there is more room at the front so will probably opt for that one but the other problem is the anti roll bar gets in the way. This will either need removing all together as (I'm hoping) ARB's aren't that essential for drag racing but if the car goes on the circuit then it's going to be good to have one fitted. So maybe extended the current one so it would clear the front sump or some how move the brackets down that hold the ARB to the chassis or fabricate some new ones.
Exciting times to say the least !!
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10-12-2012, 03:07 AM
#25
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Was hoping not to bother with a custom sub frame so when the rear sump is on and the ARB dropped down for a while, I'm rather hoping it'll just sit right. If not, dependant on how much it sticks up, I'll try and shim the frame or maybe just give it a 'haircut' if we're only talking a few MM's.
The other option, which I'm hoping I don't have to consider due to costs involved, is going dry sump which will give me loads more room down there.
The other option, which I'm hoping I don't have to consider due to costs involved, is going dry sump which will give me loads more room down there.
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10-15-2012, 05:42 AM
#27
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Update...
Just a quick update for anyone following this.
Had a few hours spare, so took the loom out of the car completely and started removing the wiring for things I won't need, so out came anything to do with heating, A/C, engine wiring etc. Hopefully I'll get it to a point where it's just the body wiring I'm after for lights, horn, indicators etc.
The next bit was removing the front bumper and investigating how much room I had to play with for an intercooler, so off came the bumper, the support bar and the metal support pieces. It was looking a bit sorry behind there, so I attacked the rusty bits with the grinder and re-painted in primer so it doesn't go any worse.
I noticed it's an awkward shape there and I'm now thinking whether to remove the cross member piece all together, trim down the inside of the bumper and weld in a support hoop instead, like the pic below. This way I can move the intercooler further forward and leave room for a small radiator.
Lots of thinking to do.....
Had a few hours spare, so took the loom out of the car completely and started removing the wiring for things I won't need, so out came anything to do with heating, A/C, engine wiring etc. Hopefully I'll get it to a point where it's just the body wiring I'm after for lights, horn, indicators etc.
The next bit was removing the front bumper and investigating how much room I had to play with for an intercooler, so off came the bumper, the support bar and the metal support pieces. It was looking a bit sorry behind there, so I attacked the rusty bits with the grinder and re-painted in primer so it doesn't go any worse.
I noticed it's an awkward shape there and I'm now thinking whether to remove the cross member piece all together, trim down the inside of the bumper and weld in a support hoop instead, like the pic below. This way I can move the intercooler further forward and leave room for a small radiator.
Lots of thinking to do.....
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10-18-2012, 06:33 AM
#28
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Update...
Quick update. I'm still waiting for the Front Sump to arrive and keen to see if the engine will fit as I'm hoping it will. In the mean time, I've removed the lower sump pan and released the Anti Roll Bar so it will move downwards. I'm pleased to say that it appears that it should fit in nicely, just may need some webbing removing from the underside of the bonnet.
Still need the front sump on to be 100% but things are looking good and ready to fabricate the engine mounts soon.
Still need the front sump on to be 100% but things are looking good and ready to fabricate the engine mounts soon.
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11-05-2012, 04:20 AM
#30
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Well chaps, for anyone following this thread...
Had a few hours free over the weekend, so got the front sump on there now and got the engine sitting where I want it. Had to lower the steering rack down as it's hitting the sump, and removed the steering rack mounts that are attached to the subframe. Now the sump has clearance to sit where it wants to be with enough hood clearance, but the sump pan will need trimming a little to allow for the repositioned steering rack. I'm hoping it will only sit 1 inch lower than stock with some custom brackets, so hopefully won't throw things out too much.
When the sump was off, I had a look at the bottom end as best as I could without removing anything, and could see the condition of the bores looked OK for a 100K engine.
I also removed the front support member behind the bumper and it's allowed for a much bigger opening for the intercooler. I've welded up a support bar that now sits between the 2 chassis legs which will be welded in place when I have chance to try the bumper back on. Realised how out of practice my welding was! It looked like pigeon ****!
Finally tried the single turbo manifold and big inlet manifold I've had lying around for a while to see how they would clear and they sit well, needing no modifying except the wastegate pipe perhaps. You can tell there's no truer saying than 'You get what you pay for' as the inlet manifold came from Titan in the US and is a great fit but the turbo manifold is a Chinese thing off Ebay and some of the studs didn't line up and will need redrilling!
Next job is to get the engine mounts fabricated, which I started on but run out of interest towards the end of the weekend. Any tips on doing this would be helpful as I started out by cutting up a cardboard breakfast cereal box but not sure this is the best way!
Had a few hours free over the weekend, so got the front sump on there now and got the engine sitting where I want it. Had to lower the steering rack down as it's hitting the sump, and removed the steering rack mounts that are attached to the subframe. Now the sump has clearance to sit where it wants to be with enough hood clearance, but the sump pan will need trimming a little to allow for the repositioned steering rack. I'm hoping it will only sit 1 inch lower than stock with some custom brackets, so hopefully won't throw things out too much.
When the sump was off, I had a look at the bottom end as best as I could without removing anything, and could see the condition of the bores looked OK for a 100K engine.
I also removed the front support member behind the bumper and it's allowed for a much bigger opening for the intercooler. I've welded up a support bar that now sits between the 2 chassis legs which will be welded in place when I have chance to try the bumper back on. Realised how out of practice my welding was! It looked like pigeon ****!
Finally tried the single turbo manifold and big inlet manifold I've had lying around for a while to see how they would clear and they sit well, needing no modifying except the wastegate pipe perhaps. You can tell there's no truer saying than 'You get what you pay for' as the inlet manifold came from Titan in the US and is a great fit but the turbo manifold is a Chinese thing off Ebay and some of the studs didn't line up and will need redrilling!
Next job is to get the engine mounts fabricated, which I started on but run out of interest towards the end of the weekend. Any tips on doing this would be helpful as I started out by cutting up a cardboard breakfast cereal box but not sure this is the best way!
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12-24-2012, 09:31 PM
#35
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Nope. I just found the site and I am excited to finally find a car that fits my needs but I do not need to tell you how or why a miata is a great car just to drive around let alone track. I have tracked other cars and this coming weekend is going to be my first track day with my miata.
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12-30-2013, 01:01 PM
#37
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Well I just stumbled on this thread and I am happy to see it. I currently have a 2jz in my miata its in the final stages of being done I hope. If you need any help I will do what ever I can.
I can give you a little input on the oil pan. I have a front sump set up and I notched the lower pan to clear the steering rack I looked into many possibilities of moving the steering rack and not matter how you do it it seems to really mess up steering geometry. I still do not have a front sway bar on my car and my engine sits up just a little higher than yours part of that being it is a 2j so its taller to start with. here are few pics.
shifter mod to come thru factory location on a w58
I have put mine together and taken it apart about 5 times over the last 4 years to fix and resolve problems and I think i have just about worked them out. I hope the best on this project I love mine and would love to see another person succeed in it.
I can give you a little input on the oil pan. I have a front sump set up and I notched the lower pan to clear the steering rack I looked into many possibilities of moving the steering rack and not matter how you do it it seems to really mess up steering geometry. I still do not have a front sway bar on my car and my engine sits up just a little higher than yours part of that being it is a 2j so its taller to start with. here are few pics.
shifter mod to come thru factory location on a w58
I have put mine together and taken it apart about 5 times over the last 4 years to fix and resolve problems and I think i have just about worked them out. I hope the best on this project I love mine and would love to see another person succeed in it.
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12-30-2013, 05:10 PM
#39
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Hey Sean
Thanks for your interest. Yeah still 100% on this! Only a matter of days away from getting it running. All the ECU wiring done, all mounts, i/c piping done. Just need fuel return to be finished! Post soon to let you know the progress. Post on the Uk site Mx5nutz if anyone is interested.
Cheers Chris
Thanks for your interest. Yeah still 100% on this! Only a matter of days away from getting it running. All the ECU wiring done, all mounts, i/c piping done. Just need fuel return to be finished! Post soon to let you know the progress. Post on the Uk site Mx5nutz if anyone is interested.
Cheers Chris
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