I've done some small projects, like basic bodywork (banging out panels, applying body filler, etc.), and I helped my uncle paint his car with a standard old-school paint gun, so with that experience in mind, I think I'd like to take a stab at painting my whole Miata. I've done everything else on the car myself, why not at least attempt the body work?

I have a 60 gal 3.2 HP Campbell Hausfeld compressor and a Husky HVLP gun from Home Depot. The car is a combination of about 5 different colors right now, but I'm trying to decide on a final paint color. I'm leaning toward a dark silver, but may end up just repainting it Silverstone metallic just for simplicity's sake.

I don't have access to a paint booth, so I'm thinking I'll just put up some clear plastic sheeting around my carport, rig up an exhaust fan and a furnace filter, and have at it (using a respirator of course).

Anyone care to offer up some advice? I have a couple weekends worth of work prepping the car before I can attempt this, so I'm soliciting opinions.

 

. . Does that count?

 

No.

 

hey nice location.

 

Does anyone not from a Whale's Vagina have any input?

 

I once painted my 94 Geo Prizm black in the front, a silver diagonal stripe followed by a blue rear end. It had rally lights on the hood and a CB radio with a HUGE whip antenna. I put 185/75/14 snow tires on it. Looked HILARIOUS and was a huge joke.

I know that doesn't help you, but I did paint the whole car.

I have always been told the prep work makes the finish. And I know the 2 most common problems are bugs and orange peel.

 

I've painted my car with some cheap single stage paint and a 30 gal compressor. Its not perfect but I'm happy with how it came out and i learned a lot while doing it. Prep work is very important. If you don't spend the time to clean and smooth the entire car you will see almost every small defect (chip, scratch, dirt, rust) once you start painting. Also before spraying you might want to get a scrap hood or fender and try painting that first.

Here are some picture of my project, there is a link to more pictures in my signature.


found this after some light sanding, stupid quarter was all filler

 

my quarter on the passenger side looks just like that. :(

 

i have painted several cars. the ones that turned out best i did on a sunny day in the driveway. prep work is important, but wet sanding and buffing is just as important after the paint is applied. use a 1500 or higher grit wet sand paper, then finish it with a high speed buffer and some 3M finishing compound.

 

painted mine satin black in the driveway. the wind was blowing to hard though. looked decent until i got some engine de-greaser on it, need to re-paint it.

 

i painted my car a month ago with Nason single stage black and it turned out alright, but got some orange peel and a few runs that I have been able to mostly remove with sanding and buffing. That is the beauty of using a single stage nonmetallic paint is that you can sand and buff the defects out and that is why I went with it. If you go with that metallic paint and try to sand and buff it will screw up the metal flakes in the paint and it wont look right, so you are stuck with orange peel and runs.

 

Do all the prep yourself with the time you have, then have a bodyshop paint it. Its really not all that expensive....and not worth ******* up in my opinion. So what if you have a air compressor, spray gun, and car port. **** like painting a car is all about experience......

Vash-

 

For the same reason i could ask, "Why don't you bring your car to BEGi to have them put a turbo kit in for you, because turboing a car is hard."

because then i never learn how to do it and if i want to paint a car again, i have to pay a body shop again.

I already have the equipment, and i have the desire to learn. plus i have a ton of spare body panels from my old wrecked chassis to get my technique down.

I don't care if it comes out perfect. This is my track **** anyway. I'm not going to drop several thousand dollars on a concourse perfect paint job just to scuff it all up when I murder a cone.

 

Well whatever suits your needs then. Have fun with it.

Vash-

 

just go for it trent. if you really want to go cheap like i did. just get some rustoleum from home depot, thin it with acetone, then spray. $20 paint jobs FTW!!!

 

Ive done it the key here is patience and good equipment+mats ehaust fans and **** like that are secondary, and only apply to concerns of your health. A dust free enviroment it a must until the paint is cured abit though.

 

i find spraying the paint is the easy part. prep work is the hard part

 

A year back, I was pretty hyped up about painting cars. Did all the research. Finally decided against it after reading about ISOcyanates.. Stuff will mess you up pretty badly even w/ one of those 3M masks (I bought the full face mask too. Never used it.) However, I understand in theory that one will be able to smell another larger molecules in paint b/f the ISOs penentrate the 3M filter.

What you really need is a respirator that has it's own air supply outside of the paint booth.

 

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1.../tictac_05.jpg

Scott here on the forums painted his own car in his garage.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...thesnowboarder

 

So far, my research indicates that a good 3M respirator will be sufficient for painting a car. The problem with the charcoal masks is that you have to make sure to change the filters regularly, something a shop finds difficult to coordinate. That's why positive-pressure systems are recommended for painting in volume.

But for an amateur, a simple 3M respirator looks to be sufficient.

Believe me, i did a bunch of searching when I found out about isocyanates. lol.