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Old 09-12-2008, 07:27 PM   #1
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Default Appraise my miata please hoes

Yeah, it's wordy but my car ads are always wordy. I has no idea what it's worth. Im thinking somewhere between $6500-$8000 but I dunno. Thanks for any advise, insults or death threats. Im thinking about selling the Miata and my IS300 and getting an S2k and another 4-wheeler.

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I got this car somewhere around 16-18 months ago. It was stock and had brand new paint and tires. It runs and drives perfect with only 116k miles. It doesn't burn oil or leak oil or smoke, etc. Has never overheated and I have kept the oil changed every 3k with Mobil-1 synthetic and Purolator Pure-One filters. Since turbocharging it about 12k-15k ago, I have not had a single problem - not even a coupler blowing off. I have driven this car a bunch to Alabama and back as well as Charlotte and back.

No aftermarket parts on the car are over 1.5yrs old with the exception of the turbo. Car was dynoed recently @ 241whp. I forget the brand of dyno but it was done with a 15% correction to read as a Dynojet would have. It's running a pretty conservative tune - mid 11:1's A/F in full boost which is about 12-13psi. It makes full boost around 3000rpm and is extremely responsive. With slicks this car could run potentially pull 12.x quarter mile times.

Engine:
14b turbo
professionally cleaned and tested RX-7 460cc injectors.
Walbro 255lph fuel pump (installed new filter also)
Front-Mount intercooler
Knock-off Type-S Blowoff valve (recirculated but still definitely audible)
Full 2.5" downpipe and exhaust with almost-stock quiet muffler with a nice rolled tip
Cable-operated exhaust cut-out bypasses the muffler for more power and faster spool.

Electronics:
AEM F/IC fully programmable fuel and ignition controller. It is a piggyback, not a standalone but is extremely capable.
AEM UEGO wideband (only about 6 months old)
VDO Boost Gauge
tiny, almost unnoticable shift lights in the pillar pod
Toyota Coil-on-plug conversion just done a few months ago.
Compact air-horn

Chassis/Brakes/Suspension/Driveline:
Hard-dog roll bar
Tein S-Tech springs
KYB AGX adjustable shocks
Brakes (front) - Hawk HPS pads
Brakes (rear) - new pads and rotors less than 2k ago.
Torsen LSD running synthetic gear oil.
"F1 Racing" - 6 puck sprung clutch.
Front Tires are Yokohama and probably need replacing soon.
Rear Tires are Falken and have about 1000-2000 miles on them


Other:
Brand new head unit. I forget the brand but its Sony or Kenwood...something. Nothing too special but it sounds nice
New headrest speakers
New Pioneer 3-way door speakers
Amplified Bazooka Tube in the trunk
Tinted windows - ok but not great

Options:
A/C, Power steering, Power windows, Power mirrors.


The bad: Has some dings and a few very small chips. The clutch squeaks taking off from a start. It's been like this since I installed the clutch last year. It doesnt hurt anything - it's just a little annoying. It's a 6-puck clutch so it requires a little more finess than a stock clutch to drive. The car was in a collision just before I bought it and was declared totalled. I have a picture of the car in it's totalled state and it was a joke. Just a dented driver door and fender. Otherwise I wouldnt have bought it myself. It was purchased from a well-known Miata mechanic/SPEC miata racer.

Obviously a 2000lb car with 240whp is no toy. I don't want to sell this to anyone under 18, nor will I let anyone under 18 test drive it. Because of the nature of this car, I'll be riding shotgun during any test-drives. Serious inquiries only.















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Old 09-12-2008, 07:40 PM   #2
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Sorry, not worth close to 8k

$6000 maybe, part it out to get the most from it.
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Old 09-12-2008, 07:41 PM   #3
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you'll never sell it with the broken hood hinge
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Old 09-12-2008, 07:45 PM   #4
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If you got $6k for it I'd be surprised. Very surprised.
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Old 09-12-2008, 07:57 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
If you got $6k for it I'd be surprised. Very surprised.
x2

I would think as a whole 4.5-5k...parting it out could get you closer to your estimated worth.
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:05 PM   #6
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$4-5k tops.
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:12 PM   #7
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About tree fiddy, that thing looks fucked up.
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:12 PM   #8
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You want what I think it's worth, or you want us to also critique your ad? Cause the ad needs A LOT of work. For starters, consider telling us what year it is. Maybe what package it is. The color code.

I say 4.5-5K is what you could get for it. Looks pretty well sorted for the most part, but some of the stuff "looks" ghetto. Not that it doesn't work fine, but looks count when considering value.
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:21 PM   #9
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If you're looking for 6.5-8k, your best bet is to sell it to someone in Canada. Also, I'd remove the part about your car weighing 2000 lbs; that's a lie which affects your credibility.
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:58 PM   #10
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The manifold and IC pipes look kinda ghetto which is gunna hurt you. Also, if it was totalled it has a salvage title. That instantly screws you over for 30-40% of whatever it would normally be worth.

~$5K
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Old 09-12-2008, 10:48 PM   #11
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I would add that if you are going to claim 240hp out of a ghetto-rig-up like that, you should have some dyno graphs for proof of such.
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Old 09-13-2008, 12:19 AM   #12
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start by getting rid of the ugly *** hood spacers
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Old 09-13-2008, 01:16 AM   #13
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Lol, pics full of Oil Stains?

No
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Old 09-13-2008, 01:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilstain View Post
Lol, pics full of Oil Stains?

No
First thing I saw as well.

Put that thing back to stock to get the most out of it, Or even get rid of it; And it's a total loss at some point?
If you can get 8 for that then I should get 50k for mine. Even parting it, if you get half of what you put into it, call it a good day.
Good luck.
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Old 09-13-2008, 09:44 AM   #15
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Thanks for the appraisals, although some were just flat out mean.

The car does make 241 on a 15% correction on that dyno which does read 12-17% lower than a Dynojet. I have a dyno graph.

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/7...o2largeas8.jpg

How is the car "ghetto-rigged"?

The "oil stains" on the driveway are water dripping off of the car. I had just washed it.

I probably will remove the hood spacers. They werent there for aesthetics and while I think they help, they probably aren't necessary.


I'll probably try putting it up for $6500 and let someone talk me down.
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Old 09-13-2008, 11:15 AM   #16
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The hood spaces make it look really bad, especially since you said it was in an accident. It just makes the hood look all fucked up to the normal eye.

To reply to your ghetto rigged question, you can't seriously say your intake doesn't appear "ghetto".
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Old 09-13-2008, 11:51 AM   #17
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$3-3.5k realistic due to title issues.
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Old 09-13-2008, 12:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloS13 View Post
Thanks for the appraisals, although some were just flat out mean.

The car does make 241 on a 15% correction on that dyno which does read 12-17% lower than a Dynojet. I have a dyno graph.

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/7...o2largeas8.jpg

How is the car "ghetto-rigged"?

The "oil stains" on the driveway are water dripping off of the car. I had just washed it.

I probably will remove the hood spacers. They werent there for aesthetics and while I think they help, they probably aren't necessary.


I'll probably try putting it up for $6500 and let someone talk me down.
Ok, I said some of it looked ghetto. Look at your charge pipes. Start from the airfilter. The filter looks rought, but it probably works fine (but mind you it looks rough.) It is clamped to the MAF sensor with a hose clamp. Air travels through the MAF, then into a couplers, then into a 2" piece of pipe, then into ANOTHER coupler, then into a bend that was made using pie cuts, then into another coupler, then into the turbo.

That's a lot of clamps and couplers. You could have eliminated a coupler, two hose clamps, and a piece of pipe by making one pipe that went from the turbo to the MAF sensor. Now what you have probably works fine. But it looks ghetto to most people. I mean, three couples, 7 hose clamps... Usually a coupler, pipe, and air filter is all that's used, or just an air filter on the turbo (assuming no MAF).

So air comes out of the turbo, turns, goes forward, and is then cut at an angle and a smaller piece of pipe is also cut at an angle and the two are welded together. So now you dropped down to a smaller pipe. Then you proceed to step up back to the original size. Then up a size again. Why did you step down in the first place? And your coldside pipe from what I can see is pie cuts too. And it's pushing on the upper radiator hose! Not good! Those tanks on the rad. look old and pushing on them could cause it to break. And everything's clamped with hose clamps, not T bolts.

All that probably works fine, but it's not the most beautiful I've ever seen. From a glance, that's ghetto to me because you could have spent a little more time and money and had a better system with less failure points.

Plus the title issue kills your retail value too. I'd say 4.5K for the car tops the way it is right now with a bad title. You already know putting it back to stock and selling the performance parts will bring more money. (IE I'll buy the COPs, someone here will buy that roll bar, etc).

And the dyno stuff sounds dumb. Were the original numbers corrected in any way, before you corrected them?
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Old 09-13-2008, 01:08 PM   #19
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Quote:
Plus the title issue kills your retail value too. I'd say 4.5K for the car tops the way it is right now with a bad title.
That is if someone is interested in a "Home Made Hookah", with a fugged up filter!
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Old 09-13-2008, 01:25 PM   #20
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Side question: what do you use to hold up your hood?
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