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Old 12-30-2008, 03:47 AM   #1
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Default Autokonexion hood + hood shocks = fail- Advice?

Looks like Autokonexions hood isnt very strong..
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After installing hood shocks on the hood on the first try to close it, the bolt/stud decided to give and yank right out of the hood. Now im looking for suggestions to get this thing back on the car properly.

Ideas that have come to mind:
1: Hood pins on the factory hinges- Although im NOT looking for that ricer look with hella hood pins y0!
2: Try and jb weld/fiberglass it back into place and say **** it to the hood shocks.. however I really want these shocks ...
3: Last but not least drill a hole where the back stud used to be on both sides and throw a bolt through it and call it a day.

What are my options guys?
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Old 12-30-2008, 04:19 AM   #2
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JB weld.

My hood is flimsy as f*** too. Lifts up in the middle way more than the stock hood at speed on the track. having to make special headlight covers to block the air getting under the leading edge. Also had to epoxy up the gaps from the ribs to the outer skin. Composites specialist friend of mine said he couldn't figure out why someone would go to the trouble of adding the ribs but not actually attach them to the skin. doh.

That said, the copied shape does put the vent the right place and the hood is light so that's why I use it. The kicker hump is twice as big as it needs to be and the edges of the vent hit the 1.6 TB on my 1.8 swap. Granted, that's because of the FM adapter so not exactly Autokonexion's fault. The adapter will be removed shortly when I test a new ECU with the 1.8 TB and VVT head.
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Old 12-30-2008, 08:57 AM   #3
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Isn't that Autokonexions guy a complete tool? If I have the right guy, are you really suprized its junk?



Edit from the future!

Quote:
Originally Posted by leatherface24 View Post
And no, the Mike that your thinking about icantthink4155 is Mike from
Racinglifestyle.com. They are both named Mike.
My bad. Sorry to whomever.

Last edited by icantthink4155; 12-30-2008 at 11:14 AM.
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Old 12-30-2008, 09:51 AM   #4
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Wow, and I was actually considering buying one of these. Better off going w/ a DIY hood at this point.
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:37 AM   #5
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dude. sorry but that was just stupid to put hood shocks on a fiberglass hood. Ive had both of autokonexions hoods and no problems with them cracking or breaking at all. Hood shocks are meant for aluminum or heavier hoods, not fiberglass.

And no, the Mike that your thinking about icantthink4155 is Mike from
Racinglifestyle.com. They are both named Mike.

Newbsauce, theres no problem with the hoods if you treat them like they are; fiberglass.

And I make about an 80 mile round trip to work everyday on the highway and at times have hit 120 and my hood with the gill vents in it has never lifted or budged.
The hood with out the second set of vents did bow in the middle a little around 80mph+ but I thought it was more because of the vents I have cutout in my head light lids feeding enough air to lift it. That hood is a bit flimsy but still safe and functional nonetheless
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:45 AM   #6
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someone post the **** where that loser flips out and pulls a bunch of 90210 attitude.
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Old 12-30-2008, 12:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leatherface24 View Post
dude. sorry but that was just stupid to put hood shocks on a fiberglass hood. Ive had both of autokonexions hoods and no problems with them cracking or breaking at all. Hood shocks are meant for aluminum or heavier hoods, not fiberglass.

And no, the Mike that your thinking about icantthink4155 is Mike from
Racinglifestyle.com. They are both named Mike.

Newbsauce, theres no problem with the hoods if you treat them like they are; fiberglass.

And I make about an 80 mile round trip to work everyday on the highway and at times have hit 120 and my hood with the gill vents in it has never lifted or budged.
The hood with out the second set of vents did bow in the middle a little around 80mph+ but I thought it was more because of the vents I have cutout in my head light lids feeding enough air to lift it. That hood is a bit flimsy but still safe and functional nonetheless
Disagree.
Adding a fender washer under the bolt head would have precluded the bolt pulling out. No reason you shouldn't be able to use hood shocks if it's made properly.

There is nothing spectacularly high quality about the hood. It is very inexpensive, rough, fits OK but not great, made with some ghetto techniques, serves a useful purpose on my race car. After having the composites engineer examine it and cite the long list of shortcuts, sloppiness and plain errors, I understand the construction more clearly. It is what it is and I would buy another one for the same purpose. $320~$350 for the most functional race hood you can buy at any price is too much of a bargain to pass up.
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:02 PM   #8
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Did your hood props were the good ones for the hood? There is a formula to calculate what power it need from the anchor points and the weight of the hood.

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Old 12-30-2008, 02:19 PM   #9
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dude, that sucks!
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leatherface24 View Post
dude. sorry but that was just stupid to put hood shocks on a fiberglass hood. Ive had both of autokonexions hoods and no problems with them cracking or breaking at all. Hood shocks are meant for aluminum or heavier hoods, not fiberglass.

And no, the Mike that your thinking about icantthink4155 is Mike from
Racinglifestyle.com. They are both named Mike.

Newbsauce, theres no problem with the hoods if you treat them like they are; fiberglass.

And I make about an 80 mile round trip to work everyday on the highway and at times have hit 120 and my hood with the gill vents in it has never lifted or budged.
The hood with out the second set of vents did bow in the middle a little around 80mph+ but I thought it was more because of the vents I have cutout in my head light lids feeding enough air to lift it. That hood is a bit flimsy but still safe and functional nonetheless
I have had this hood on the car for aprox 6 months + with no BIG issues..

The hood latch doesnt line up properly, it rubs either drivers side fender or passanger side headlight lid.

I have put on a **** load of miles with out it falling apart.

On track @ 100 mph it gets a big wobbly and looks like its going to snap in half.

Hood pins fixed alot of worry some thoughts i had, however there being no backing for the 2 main supports on the rear of the hood is unacceptable. A simple washer during the creation of the hood could have made it stronger.

I also see no reason why hood shocks couldn't be used if it was constructed properly
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
Disagree.
Adding a fender washer under the bolt head would have precluded the bolt pulling out. No reason you shouldn't be able to use hood shocks if it's made properly.

There is nothing spectacularly high quality about the hood. It is very inexpensive, rough, fits OK but not great, made with some ghetto techniques, serves a useful purpose on my race car. After having the composites engineer examine it and cite the long list of shortcuts, sloppiness and plain errors, I understand the construction more clearly. It is what it is and I would buy another one for the same purpose. $320~$350 for the most functional race hood you can buy at any price is too much of a bargain to pass up.

The hood shocks sold on the majority, if not all of the miata vendors sites are too stiff for FB. You could use a softer shock but to my knowledge, you'd have to diy.

I agree with the single vented hood. Its not the best quality however the the one with the secondary vents is way better for some reason.

Quote:
Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
$320~$350 for the most functional race hood you can buy at any price is too much of a bargain to pass up.
True
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:36 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thesnowboarder View Post
I also see no reason why hood shocks couldn't be used if it was constructed properly

Did you read? It's easy to see that your props are too stiff like LF24 said

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Wanderer View Post
Did your hood props were the good ones for the hood? There is a formula to calculate what power it need from the anchor points and the weight of the hood.

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Old 12-30-2008, 02:47 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Wanderer View Post
Did you read? It's easy to see that your props are too stiff like LF24 said
yes i did, and the cf hood actually weighs the same if not a tad more than the stock hood does. Therefore they should work correct? They were installed as per the directions, properly.

The hood is the problem, not the shocks.
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Old 12-30-2008, 03:10 PM   #14
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seriously they just embedded a bolt head into the fiberglass? lame. go to mcmaster.com and search for "perforated base binding studs" and then use some strong epoxy and put it where the bolt was. the fiberglass resin and epoxy should be compatible if you rough up the hood where the bond joint is.
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Old 12-30-2008, 03:10 PM   #15
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dude...ugh * mutated facepalm*
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:48 AM   #16
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Apparently you can tap a thread for a bolt in this stuff once its fully hardened. Will report back tomorrow on strength of the product.
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Old 12-31-2008, 09:55 AM   #17
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itll work....if you dont use those hood shocks again that is.
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Old 12-31-2008, 01:36 PM   #18
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sell me your hood shocks if your not going to use it.
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Old 12-31-2008, 02:40 PM   #19
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Fuz0r
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:02 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leatherface24 View Post
itll work....if you dont use those hood shocks again that is.
Would you shut the **** up, please? The CF hood weighs a whopping SIXTEEN OUNCES less than the stock hood.
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