Be my guest.

would something like this work to hold the engine? while removing subframe...
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Dude just drill and tap it yourself while it's still on the car. Yes it sounds scary, but it was one of the easiest tasks in my install.:2cents:

If it will indeed support 1000 lbs and your not supporting something other than a Miata engine, yes.

x2, use washers on your fitting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111!!!!1!11!1one

You are taking a tiny project and making it into a federal case. Relax man its not hard. To ensure you do it safely wrap some black tape on the drills so when you drill it the drill cant go any more than half an inch.

drill it with a small drill, then drill it with a bigger drill and then drill it with a bigger drill. start with 1/8", then i think i used a 7/16, then go with the final drill. No biggy.

btw to answer ur question, the best way to tap the oil pan is if you drill a hole in it first.

i used some thread sealer and havent had a problem with any fittings leaking. Turbo oil is good and so is the drain plug. I must say do not use teflon tape on the oil supply that goes to the turbo. I've seen few turbos on the forum here burn since the teflon tape would get into pieces and go down the line and toast the turbo.

Washers? I don't understand :( :hustler:

^ drilling for oil fail?
http://failblog.files.wordpress.com/...name-fail1.jpg

A shaving stuck my oil pump relief valve open. :vash:
Also had a few just barely caught in the pickup strain. And yes, I used grease on the tap and flushed the pan. Next time I am taking the pan off before tapping.

Pulling subframe is 100x easier then pulling engine...IMO

and then take off pan and get a -10an bung welded nice and high underneath turbo exit, and never worry about it again.

i'm happy at least one person said this.
the last thing i want to do after i get all my parts (18 years from now) is pull the engine just to tap the pan. just seems like a pain in the ass for something that's obviously needed, but small in comparison to other shit.
now, if you're doing a clutch at the same time...makes def makes sense to pull the engine i guess.

I just did this a month ago... just make sure you get the car as high off the ground as humanly possible.

Good idea, although I believe others have suggested welding an NPT bung on to the pan. With the -AN bung sticking off the side of the ban, it's easy to damage that beveled edge and render it scrap, yet very difficult to replace or fix.

With the NPT bung, threads are interior and protected from banging around, dropped wrenches, etc, and easy to fix by simply chasing the threads with a tap.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the thread necro.

As long as this thread is raised from the dead . . . .

I won't claim what I did is the "best" way, but I'm pretty sure it's the easiest way. Especially if you want to keep your AC. Details and pictures are in my build thread. I've had the car on the road since April and have racked up ~3,500 DD miles since then (I have a 45 mile one-way commute -- and I live in Hell . . . I mean TX -- it was 107 today).

Zero issues with the oil system. Based upon that, I recommend what I did if you're looking for quick, easy and effective. YMMV.

link to thread?

In sig.

/me has sigs disabled
went to profile > about me > sig
got it.
thank you

I am about to start installing my Begi kit. I am going to tap the pan while its on.

I am curious what kind of tooling people are using. I have AC and PS, so its crowded up there.

Seems like there is more room to work just forward of the engine mount....once the headers are out.

I used a hand drill. Seriously. I did such a good job that it seeped oil from the fitting ever after for 3 years. Winning

hand drill...like one of these?

https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/im...kn8mPdkKngPOwA

https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/im...W_FHvenwm_3-hA

I tried my pneumatic drill and it seem small enough to work.....just have to be real careful with the chips.