Best way to remove/tap the oil pan? - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


General Miata Chat A place to talk about anything Miata

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-14-2010, 08:54 AM   #1
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 27
Total Cats: 0
Default Best way to remove/tap the oil pan?

I've been asking around and I'm still pretty fuzzy on the procedure.

I've heard several different ways, from dropping the subframe, raising the motor, to just leaving the son of a bitch in there and tapping it while it's still bolted to the car.

Is there an 'easy and safe' way to do this? I have searched around, but I guess I'm not searching for the right stuff.
myrmidon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 09:00 AM   #2
meatbag
iTrader: (50)
 
gospeed81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 7,357
Total Cats: 26
Default

"safe" is to pull the motor.

You really can't take of the oil pan while the motor is in the car, and really don't want to. It involves removing the subframe and prying against some kind of miracle grip adhesive Mazda put on the pan gasket.

"easy" is to simply drill in place. I drilled mine in car...it wasn't too bad...but I had an extra set of hands to help push and align drill and tap.

I'm about to put in another motor, and am still not gonna crack the oilpan. I'll just drill it while on the stand, flush with mineral spirits, and then put in car.
gospeed81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 09:00 AM   #3
Junior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Springfield, Mass
Posts: 364
Total Cats: 0
Default

I just tapped mine on car. didn't lift the motor or anything. Just had to loosen the a/c, mark the spot, drill and tap. I followed the advice from Begi to leave the oil in the car then drain after taping. I also greased up the drill bit and tap really well so that it would catch all the shavings. Haven't had any problems and i believe most people on here have done the same thing.
seraph is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 09:06 AM   #4
AFM Crusader
iTrader: (18)
 
olderguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 4,438
Total Cats: 84
Default

olderguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 09:07 AM   #5
:(
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: nowhere
Posts: 8,281
Total Cats: 2
Default

just tap that bitch and be done with it.
magnamx-5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 09:09 AM   #6
Junior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: St Johns, Fl
Posts: 378
Total Cats: 0
Default

I've done it 3 times. 2 on car, 1 on engine stand. Never removed the pan. In car is more difficult, but not bad. A few things that made it easier for me:
1. I used my 12" long 3/8 bit I bought when installing my rollbar for my "pilot" hole. Made it easier to keep the drill "more" perpendicular to the pan when drilling by moving the drill body more in the fender well.
2. Rememeber you don't have to drill the final hole perpendicular to the pan when drilling. You just have to TAP the hole perpendicular. So, you can get away with having the drill at an angle to the pan when drilling making it much easier to do on the car. When I finished drilling, my hole was very oblong. I filed it abit to get a decent starting hole for my tap, and then carefully tapped the hole keeping the tap lined up like I wanted.
clay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 09:20 AM   #7
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 27
Total Cats: 0
Default

Sweet. This is exactly the advice I needed, I was really afraid doing this was gonna spin the **** out of my bearings and the last thing I need is a blown motor haha.

Thanks a lot dudes!
myrmidon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 09:34 AM   #8
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,872
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by myrmidon View Post
I've heard several different ways, from dropping the subframe, raising the motor, to just leaving the son of a bitch in there and tapping it while it's still bolted to the car.

If you heard any other way than simply drilling and tapping it, then you should cease to listen to the advice givers.
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 09:59 AM   #9
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 567
Total Cats: 1
Default

I just did this yesterday, it was way easier than most people think. Just keep on greasing your bit to collect shavings and reclean it often. I honestly dont think hardly any shavings at all went into the pan.
slutz4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 10:08 AM   #10
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,872
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

Is that because the basic design of the twist drill bit is essentially designed for chip removal by use of the spiraling flutes?


Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 10:13 AM   #11
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 567
Total Cats: 1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Is that because the basic design of the twist drill bit is essentially designed for chip removal by use of the spiraling flutes?



I would imagine
slutz4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 10:15 AM   #12
Senior Member
iTrader: (34)
 
ARTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Dallas
Posts: 530
Total Cats: 9
Default

If you have an air compressor, connect a blower nozzle to the breather hose and set the regulator to 5-10psi. That will blow out any shavings from the inside out.
ARTech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 11:40 AM   #13
AFM Crusader
iTrader: (18)
 
olderguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 4,438
Total Cats: 84
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ARTech View Post
If you have an air compressor, connect a blower nozzle to the breather hose and set the regulator to 5-10psi. That will blow out any shavings from the inside out.

Or use the "air out" side of a shop vac
olderguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 12:51 PM   #14
Senior Member
iTrader: (34)
 
ARTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Dallas
Posts: 530
Total Cats: 9
Default

As long as it doesn't put out more than 10psi or you risk blowing out the seals. Or, I suppose you could drill a small pilot hole first to relieve pressure.
ARTech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 01:17 PM   #15
Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central-ish VA
Posts: 4,449
Total Cats: 16
Default

Don't forget that pressure will be relieved through the PCV valve into the intake tract as well. I'd say the shop vac in reverse is a great method.
neogenesis2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 01:55 PM   #16
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 8,782
Total Cats: 119
Default

I also recommend sealing up the fitting after screwing it in. Mine leaked and I am going to jbweld the next one.
Faeflora is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 02:06 PM   #17
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,872
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

put sealant on the threads when screwing it in, not after. Well, and/or at least.
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 03:57 PM   #18
Senior Member
iTrader: (34)
 
ARTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Dallas
Posts: 530
Total Cats: 9
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by neogenesis2004 View Post
Don't forget that pressure will be relieved through the PCV valve into the intake tract as well. I'd say the shop vac in reverse is a great method.
Ah, yes! Mine was plugged.
ARTech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2010, 04:21 PM   #19
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 123
Total Cats: 0
Default

I used some bent q-tips to get out a lot of the shaving before I flushed with mineral spirits, it worked great. There were some fairly large shavings in there from the tapping.
1redcanuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2010, 06:09 PM   #20
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 27
Total Cats: 0
Default

Haha sweet advice from everyone.

Think I can get away with just using some RTV on the threads, or should I use proper JBWeld?

I also have an unopened tube of quick metal loctite from a 'something-is-really-wrong' failed crank repair lol.
myrmidon is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Garrett Turbo, 1.8 Oil Pan, & Misc. Stuff nbdooey Miata parts for sale/trade 9 08-30-2017 10:50 PM
OTS Bilstein to motorsports ASN conversion stoves Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 5 04-21-2016 04:00 PM
Moroso Air Oil Separator Catch Can Aroundcorner Miata parts for sale/trade 2 10-01-2015 04:20 PM
Low oil pressure after 1.8 swap and new turbo setup JesseTheNoob DIY Turbo Discussion 15 09-30-2015 03:44 PM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:56 AM.