VicksburgMiata

What's the best way to blend in a body kit to the metal panels on a car and not have it start to crack two years down the line?

buffon01

iTrader: (9)

You are kidding right...


Troll alert

VicksburgMiata

Nope. My wife wants her new body kit to look like the ones in te magazines she picks up. I fairly good with body work but not sure what it takes to go from fiberglass to metal. Im pretty sure it's going to be a pain and not worth it.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

I don't think the OP is a troll but I'm sad to say there is no way to eliminate that joint on a permanent basis. Getting two years out of it would be doing well. Spend some time fitting the parts to minimize gaps, paint all parts separately and then carefully assemble. That's the best you are going to do. Don't try to bondo in the joint. It will just disappoint you when your fresh paint job cracks at the joint.

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

This belongs in the "general" section, and "body kit" stuff is more of a CR.net thing

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

I think what you mean is molding the bodykit to the car. Don't bother. Unless the car lives in a climate controlled garage all of its life and never gets driven, it will NEVER hold up. ALL molded jobs eventually crack and seperate. You wife is a ricer.

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

I love the wife excuses. Its like the 16 year old on cr who tried to use his mom as an excuse for "Stainless steel engine dress-up kit".

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys, my buddy is wants to know of good, romantic truck stops with private showers. I'm 6', swimmer build, and like to party.

buffon01

iTrader: (9)

Power bottom?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Him or me?

buffon01

iTrader: (9)

Both

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I'm exercising veto power on this one, bitches. This is relevant to my interests because I have to blend Autokonexion 30mm rear quarters without making it look like ***.

Cease with the e-thuggery and make with the legitimate bodywork advice before I figuratively ban someone.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

I think I would be a power top.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Straight to bed.
No mud-dump trucker pigs in the main forums. GTFO of here and back to the vendor section where we put drains in the floor. You're a good bottom, I'll give you that, but we're not trying to take you home to our dad's.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

It takes a well-seasoned bottom to become a power-top.

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

+2 funny thread.

buffon01

iTrader: (9)

Joshy is a well experienced specimen Key West baby!!

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

So, Ricky, I trust that we've answered your question satisfactorily?

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

Your best bet is to really take your time fitting the kit. You'll spend several hours sanding and lining everything up. Once you get a minimal gap the whole way around, then it's time to mount up...it'll make all the difference visually. No matter what fill product you use, it WILL eventually crack and seperate, it comes from expansion and contraction between the different materials and paint can't cope with the dfference between the two materials. Seriously, just spend time on the fitment.

XxGoKoUxX

iTrader: (2)

Willing laying sheets of glass on top of the metal & FB last long? That's just about my idea of attacking this ordeal. I'll be honest though, I definitely, 100% would never mold the front bumper because that thing comes off and on VERY often later on in your car's life.

Here's a link for reference of what some people use (google's your best friend, dont forget that )

http://www.kustomkulturelounge.com/f...php/t-708.html