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Old 08-15-2008, 01:15 PM   #21
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current car 0 above atmosphere.
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Old 08-15-2008, 01:20 PM   #22
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Power, RPM, AFR's, Timing, cooling capacity, and probably some other things all tear up an engine if it's not right.
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Old 08-15-2008, 03:30 PM   #23
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You guys are a bunch of wooses. I run my stock motor with 200K miles on it with the wastegate welded shut. I get tons of power when the boost climbs to 50 psi. It's awesome when I drag race at the local Air Force base against F-16 fighters on full afterburner takeoff, and leave them in the dust. I got some 2.08:1 rear end gears to keep up with them.
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Old 08-15-2008, 05:17 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Machismo View Post
Fishin's easy, it's the drinking that's the chore.
If you are trying to imply that you can teach a horse to fish, I want to see that ****!
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Old 08-15-2008, 10:50 PM   #25
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Listen man, if horses were wishes, we'd all be eating steak.
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Old 08-20-2008, 01:30 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitime View Post
Big Boy... you need to do some homework for this reason.

PSI means nothing really... its power that breaks motors.
A DSM t25 at 10 psi does NOT equal a gt30 at 10psi... they flow different amounts of air and thus make different amounts of power.

You need to look at power levels people break at... not what PSI you can run.

ie: go back an relearn about turbo systems, turbo sizing, power goals, power potential, engine tuning and required supporting mods etc...
Understood. I got the book Maximum Boost to help educate me on this topic. I haven't gotten around to reading it yet because I have been busy studying tuning theory. It is next on my list though. This will be my first turbo project. Sorry for the plane fact that I am a Noob but I am approaching this whole project as a learning experience.

I realize that torque is going to be the determining factor on how hard I will be able push it before the rear end breaks. I have the torsion Diff in the back. Any ideas on the limits of my current Diff?

The BS isn't necessary. I'm not stupid just merely new to the subject. I appreciate what guidance you can give me.
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Old 08-20-2008, 02:02 PM   #27
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Understood. I got the book Maximum Boost to help educate me on this topic. I haven't gotten around to reading it yet because I have been busy studying tuning theory.
I suppose it's too late now but I'd suggest you've done this in reverse. Max Boost will educate you with the key fundamentals, thereby reducing your need to post the questions which have resulted in the annoying flak you've received. Understand the basics then tuning theory can be usefully implemented.

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Sorry for the plane fact that I am a Noob but I am approaching this whole project as a learning experience.
Not sure what planes have to do with any of this but I assure you this will indeed be a big learning experience, most of which should be fun (assuming you like cars and ****).

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Originally Posted by Big Boy View Post
I realize that torque is going to be the determining factor on how hard I will be able push it before the rear end breaks. I have the torsion Diff in the back. Any ideas on the limits of my current Diff?
Your driving will be the determining factor. Available torque just increases your need to exhibit mechanical empathy. The Torsen is the strongest of the OE Miata 3rd members.
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Old 08-20-2008, 02:16 PM   #28
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I started with tuning theory and an Engine Management System so that I can learn the system/interface before boost complicates things. Plus I decided to keep the car naturally aspirated while I began my love affair with her. Since the summer is coming to a close the time has come to up the ante and make things a little more risky.
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Old 08-20-2008, 02:33 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilstain View Post
If you are trying to imply that you can teach a horse to fish, I want to see that ****!
Poultry is just another way of saying Chicken..... Fishin' = searching
And God forbid I waste beer on something that doesn't fight back before being saddled.
I don't even know why I am wasting my time dignifying this with an answer.
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Old 08-20-2008, 03:03 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Big Boy View Post
The BS isn't necessary. I'm not stupid just merely new to the subject. I appreciate what guidance you can give me.
Actually I think it is. The information you seek is probably already here. Just search for it. mt.n helps those who help themselves.
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Old 08-21-2008, 01:09 AM   #31
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That's nothing.Ihave a 15 gallon air tank I fill with my compressor hooked to my intake.

I boost 120psi on a regular basis.I have a reverse mounted hoodscoop and a Super Soaker for water injection!

I have a fresh motor just rebuilt with used parts.
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Old 08-21-2008, 11:27 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by lordrigamus View Post
That's nothing.Ihave a 15 gallon air tank I fill with my compressor hooked to my intake.

I boost 120psi on a regular basis.I have a reverse mounted hoodscoop and a Super Soaker for water injection!
I just have your Mom fart into my gas tank. Highest octane fuel I've ever used. Cheap and easy too.
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Old 08-21-2008, 11:49 PM   #33
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Oh, SNAP son!
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Old 08-22-2008, 12:19 AM   #34
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GT47-88, PVC downpipe and manifold, 92 psi with propane injection. 220whp, excellent spool.
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Old 08-22-2008, 12:31 AM   #35
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Bilge Fan FTW!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Boy View Post
I realize that torque is going to be the determining factor on how hard I will be able push it before the rear end breaks. I have the torsion Diff in the back. Any ideas on the limits of my current Diff?
Actually, the differential itself is not the weak point, so Torsen vs. Open makes no difference. What tends to break is the ring & pinion gearset. This is a fairly common problem on the '90-'93 cars, which use a smaller ring gear, and the solution is usually to upgrade to the larger 1.8 style diff that you already have, which tends to be fairly robust. Lay off the smokey burnouts and clutch-drops and your diff will be fine.

Transmissions, unfortunately, tend to get used up after a while. Fortunately they're cheap and not terribly difficult to swap.

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The BS isn't necessary. I'm not stupid just merely new to the subject. I appreciate what guidance you can give me.
Heh. Relax, this is just how newbs get welcomed to the forum. It's a hazing ritual.
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Old 08-22-2008, 09:44 AM   #36
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I'll beat you all in my old school 538HP "muscle" car.

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Old 08-22-2008, 09:51 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Transmissions, unfortunately, tend to get used up after a while. Fortunately they're cheap and not terribly difficult to swap.
What tends to break on them? Is it the gears? I have heard of people swapping RX-7 gears into the transmission. I guess it takes some grinding on the case in order to get them to fit but it has been done. I haven't found a "detailed" writeup on this yet so forgive my lack of detail.

Joe thanks for the info.
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