I had to back my timing down a bit to stop my car from overheating in this weather, I'll advance it back up once ambient temps go below 105F.

This is how I see the sun right now in my miata.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1344021346

it's probably the battery. dead cell.

What kind of acid did you use to flush the system? Muratic? Im not sure if thats spelled correctly

My '96 overheated when bone stock with A/C running after heat soaking from idling in a sun baked parking lot for a couple of hours. I have since acquired an IR thermometer and learned that asphalt temps in the summer sun commonly reach 135*F or better at 95-96* ambient. I wonder what yours is.

Radiator flush bottle.

On a related note, I found the problem. My passenger side fan stops working after a few seconds. Now, if only I could find the fan I removed from the turbo car I could make this work.

Pass fan is a/c fan. Only comes on when the ac button is pushed and the fan is on.

I fixed it for you. I think? I think the fan is only on with the compressor.

The timing question is a good one. You should check it just for grins.

Not on my computer. Reverant already said 203 and 208* activation points for each.

Can you hotwire the fan and have it stay on or is it the fan motor itself?

I meant interior fan (blower) Basically when the hvac is on and the button is pushed. But yeah, if he's running a standalone who the hell knows?:giggle:

presumably he's got it set up so the a/c fan comes on with a/c compressor OR when temps are over 208F.

Which I think is how stock fan works.

Can you change the temp to something like 150 to make sure it's coming on when that trigger is reached?

This is why I wired both fans to a big relay and switch. No questions asked. If the switch is up, they're on, if it's down, they're off.

You can buy those cheapo $12(??) ebay slim fans and mount the motor and blade assembly into the stock shroud. That's what I did when one of my motors blew.

I can't tell if your fan is broken or if you're having a software/sensor issue.

The fan says "CLANK CLANK CLANK OHMERGARD I'M BROKED" so I'm fairly certain it's a problem with the fan. Thanks for the tip Curly, I'll keep the shroud for the slim-fans I've had in the garage for 5-years.

New fans sealed to the radiator and it still overheats. ----

I didn't think that one fan would be the issue. It's the flow, man.

Obstruction has moved into the lead.

Did the radiator have any styrofoam supports? Any chance they broke/fragmented and a chunk got into the radiator? This actually happened to me when I replaced the radiator on our pickup years ago, but I was able to get it out with reverse flow from a hose.

No foam in there.

the new fan stays on right?

Yes.

Late to the party. Stop guessing if your rad caps are good or not, I've gotten DOA ones from mazda motorpsorts. Put the cap on and squeeze the upper rad hose, if you can hear/see the coolant flowing into the overflow its no good. You have to squeeze really really hard to make it go in with a good cap, don't know if its even possible though, never made coolant go into the overflow with this method on a good cap.