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Old 01-16-2013, 08:42 PM   #21
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Sparcos are mounted from the bottom on the factory rails. When they were in my '97 they went in no problem. For some reason the rails were REALLY hard to get to line up. Takes a bit of push, shove, and pry. They do fit and the pass side is pretty easy to slide. The driver side is hard if you need to slide it far forward, like to undo hardtop latches. Normal sitting range is fine though. Something about the '99 rails and the sparcos make the them V shape a hair.

I'll take pics in a few minutes for you. Need to find my camera
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:46 PM   #22
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When I have my sliders bolted down and put my seat on top of the sliders the brackets look like they are 1/2" to wide. Like If I were to bolt my sliders on to my seat brackets I doubt they would line up when I went to bolt them in my car.
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:38 PM   #23
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I grabbed a few shots for you. It's already dark here. Just moved and I can't quite push the car up the drive to the garage alone for the lights. If you want better just ask and I'll tie the car to the wife and wip her.


Seats in


Sits down low on the rails. The rails are slightly farther apart in the front vs the back.


This is almost all the way back on the the sliders and although it may not look like it, I can get my fingers around there.


From the back
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:55 PM   #24
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My rails were about a 1/2in off too. I put the rear bolts in loose with the seat all the way forward. Then slide the seat ALL the way back. Really seriously get in the seat and push it back like you're pushing out a softball. Get the trans tunnel side pin thing on the rail in and loose bolted and get it in its spot. The door side rail will be about 1/2in off. get something to pry the slider leg over with and lean on the side of the seat hard. I had to oval the floor hole very slightly. Once the slide pin gets a little in the floor hole slam it in with a dead blow hammer.

It will fit.
It will suck.
I don't want to take them out because getting them back in will suck. Maybe being in the car that way for a while will make it easier.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:03 PM   #25
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Pm'd!

I need to give this another shot before I give up
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:33 PM   #26
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Got it and PM'd back. I'll see what I can do to help you. I will warn you.

1-It will **** you off
2-If you smoke- go get a fresh pack before hand or at least 1/2 to start or you will want to scream in the driveway.
3-Suggested-deadblow, BIG screwdriver, pry bar, drill w/ bits, patience.
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:18 AM   #27
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Where is the interference? What needs clearance? Is it the way the sliders mount to the seat, or the seat interfering when it's slid back?
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:42 AM   #28
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Slid back I don't have any interference at 5ft 9in.

The rail needed to be modded as so. I flipped the Sparco upside down, made marks, made drill.


I can go a bit farther back from here. At my height this doesn't interfere with anything. Pushed all the way back the left shoulder for the drivers part of the seat just touches the door opening area. Or see pic, not slid all they way back, just for reference.


With the sliders bolted to the sliders they sorta pizza out toward the front. It is maybe possible to do it in reverse, but with out any room behind the seat that's a bigger nightmare. The issue is getting the front parts of the rails to locate in the pin holes and bolt. It takes some prying, a hammer (once you get the pins located hammer the rail down with a deadblow), and bolt it down.
Note: I'm the only one I know of with this problem and they fit really easy in my '97. Same exact seats. I had them in my '97 for 2yrs and then going in the '99 was a pain and had a few sets of rails to mangle in trying.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:24 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TorqueZombie View Post
I'll tie the car to the wife and wip her.
Pix plz.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:50 PM   #30
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This is what I got.




Had to notch the top to get it far enough back, I wasn't to happy about doing this, but no other way and not unprecedented.




Copied the Goodwin brackets. I forget the thickness, just copied what was Goodwin uses.




From the top. All grade 8.





Seat doesn't flex at all. Feels safe and stable.






Totally a pain in the ***, but for a cheapskate it was totally worth it.

BTW this was my first welding project on my own. I had a friend that's an experienced welder check my work prior to install, he had me fix one weld.

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:54 PM   #31
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Those NRG seats actually look nice. Have you tried to even mock them up in the car yet? I'm curious how bad the fitment is..
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:35 PM   #32
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Is that a 10 degree or 20 degree Ultrashield seat?
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:45 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
Those NRG seats actually look nice. Have you tried to even mock them up in the car yet? I'm curious how bad the fitment is..
They're like a sofa, they are just as nice as my MazdaSpeed Miata seats but with a tighter fit just like I wanted!

Yes I mocked them up and the fitment isn't bad actually. I feel if I were to use sliders I MAY not pass the broom stick test but I am 6" tall.

My biggest problem is it hits very slightly in 2 locations, 1 depending how you twist and mingle the angle of the dangle.. or whatever

Basically with the door shut the door pane hits on the top plastic piece that sticks out like 3".. Another spot is the leg support hits on the trans tunnel just slightly. I could easily beat in my trans tunnel and be set, then I'd just have to worry about how to mount these things without sliders.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:08 PM   #34
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Anyone have dimensions of their bucket seats? Maybe I can be convinced mine will work if someone has similar dimensions as I do lol

My model # RSC-300

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