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Old 09-23-2007, 07:13 PM   #1
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Default Burst heater line

So my heater line burst, apparently, and drained all of the coolant while I was out tuning with my new exhaust. Funny thing was...MS didn't show coolant over 215F. Fortunately, I was close to home and made it back into the garage (babying, obviously), but the damage is done, I'm afraid.

So what are the chances that running without coolant for a mile or so didn't damage anything? It seemed to be running fine, and the oil didn't seem to be cloudy at all.

What do you guys suggest? Pull the head and have it checked, replace the headgasket, and be on my way? Or just replace the heater hose and continue to drive it?

Figures...everything was running great finally
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Old 09-23-2007, 07:23 PM   #2
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if it was only a mile then its probably fine
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Old 09-23-2007, 07:24 PM   #3
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replace the heater hose and see what happens
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Old 09-23-2007, 07:24 PM   #4
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I would check the compression just for the hell of it. Replace the heater hose, and drive it if all checks out. If you notice problems then I would tear it down. It's possible you didn't damage anything but you might as well do the tests you can before tearing it down. If the head is screwed you should be able to tell with leakdown test.
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Old 09-23-2007, 08:45 PM   #5
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Good call on the compression and leak-down test. Guess I'll have to find me a tester kit
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Old 09-23-2007, 08:58 PM   #6
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unless it's running bad it's probably ok, replace hose see
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Old 09-23-2007, 09:22 PM   #7
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open the hood, and run it as an air cooled motor.
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Old 09-23-2007, 09:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
open the hood, and run it as an air cooled motor.
ha, that's actually how I got it home
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Old 09-23-2007, 09:59 PM   #9
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i bet your fine, specially if it didn't start running weird.
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Old 09-23-2007, 10:03 PM   #10
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+1 this happened on our 96 before we had to park it trying to find a problem turning out to be a stuffed up cat and bad FP relay. It still runs fine to this day.
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Old 09-23-2007, 10:41 PM   #11
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Once you replace that hose and get it running, order yourself a complete set of hoses and replace them *ALL*. That was the weakest one. Once you replace it with one that will hold pressure, the next weakest one will take the brunt and it will go in due time. Just replace them all and get it over with. This includes the coolant lines to the turbo unless they are less than a year old or they are some kind of super lines (steel overbraid, reinforced silicone, etc.). BTDT. This way you can shop for a good price on the hoses and plan for the swap, instead of getting stranded somewhere.
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Old 09-24-2007, 04:46 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwisenheimer View Post
Once you replace that hose and get it running, order yourself a complete set of hoses and replace them *ALL*. That was the weakest one. Once you replace it with one that will hold pressure, the next weakest one will take the brunt and it will go in due time. Just replace them all and get it over with. This includes the coolant lines to the turbo unless they are less than a year old or they are some kind of super lines (steel overbraid, reinforced silicone, etc.). BTDT. This way you can shop for a good price on the hoses and plan for the swap, instead of getting stranded somewhere.
this is so true, ask me how I know....
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Old 09-24-2007, 06:24 AM   #13
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Actually, they're all new (within the year) except for the heater hoses

I'll replace both heater hoses and go from there.
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Old 09-24-2007, 09:33 PM   #14
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Back up and running. When I get a chance, I'll do a compression and leakdown test. Seems to be running ok though.

Next thing on the list...EBC...not liking the occasional boost spike that puts me into a conservatively rich cell (but on the edge of the injector I'm using), and sometimes blips my boost overrun protection.
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