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Old May 31, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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Question Call out to Frog Arms owners

I've read all the threads on the topic and i'm still not sure what to expect from these.

The other threads are polluted with supposition and baseless pontification (i.e. people who don't own a set). Please only post if you have them and installed them!

Surely Boss Frog must've sold a couple hundred of these by now -- this thread is a call out to all you guys to post your experience!
Old May 31, 2010 | 01:31 PM
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I have them, and they are installed. I installed them after my FM 2.5 Suspension. I didn't notice a whole lot, but then again I haven't tracked them at all. Sorry I can't be much help!
Old May 31, 2010 | 01:45 PM
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Thanks for the feedback, certainly a valid response!

To any lurkers - I'm looking for feedback with regards to the 'solidity' of the car. If anyone has racing feedback, that's great, but for me (And i think a lot of people) the big draw would be reduction of cowl shake and a more solid feel over crappy roads.
Old May 31, 2010 | 02:04 PM
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In my experience, I've noticed stiffening mods more over bumps on the street initially than when i finally put it on the track (except for teh moguls at HHR).
Old May 31, 2010 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ctxspy
the big draw would be reduction of cowl shake and a more solid feel over crappy roads.
I will say that on my trip from Chicago to Watertown, NY the car felt extremely solid even around 80-85mph on some pretty crappy roads. I did install the FM suspension/frog arms about a week after I bought the car, but I have yet to feel any cowl shake/shudder that I hear others talk about.
Old May 31, 2010 | 02:44 PM
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"kepone" over at m.net did a nice install thread.
Old May 31, 2010 | 02:50 PM
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If you're not tracking your car, forgetaboutit.
If you're tracking your car, get a cage
Old May 31, 2010 | 03:01 PM
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Get some square tube... weld in 3 pieces on each side... profit.
Old May 31, 2010 | 03:40 PM
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They were a waste of money. I few pieces of angle welded together would get the same results. I'm not sure if they were the cause, but I had to re-adjust how the door hangs to keep them from drooping like a 3rd gen F-body door.
Old May 31, 2010 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by chpmnsws6
They were a waste of money. I few pieces of angle welded together would get the same results. I'm not sure if they were the cause, but I had to re-adjust how the door hangs to keep them from drooping like a 3rd gen F-body door.
Ouch.
Old May 31, 2010 | 11:52 PM
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I'd installed them on my recently departed NA and it did indeed make the front end stiffer. By the time I had sold the car I had 3 point cobalt brace, frog arms, door bars, FM butterfly and a double hoop - the car felt more solid than any NA I've been in. My goal was to add solidity for daily driving, not necessarily for track use and I felt that they've met my needs.
Since the installation involves removing a few of the door hinges, you do need to keep the doors closed. Even with that they did droop, but all I had to do was to re-adjust them while they were supported by a floor jack and that was the end of it and no further adjustments were needed. In kepone's thread on m.net I have some posts with the adjustment.
Old Jun 1, 2010 | 12:04 AM
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i wouldn't put these on a street car, your reinforcement your crumple zones. kinda a stupid idea imo
Old Jun 1, 2010 | 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by jeff_man
i wouldn't put these on a street car, your reinforcement your crumple zones. kinda a stupid idea imo
And with that, a roll bar is far more dangerous then the frog arms.... But I do agree. It is a compromise.
Old Jun 1, 2010 | 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by chpmnsws6
And with that, a roll bar is far more dangerous then the frog arms.... But I do agree. It is a compromise.
you better rectify your statement with proof cuz your talking jive turkey. how in the hell could a real roll bar be more dangerous.
Old Jun 1, 2010 | 03:16 AM
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Or at least be more specific. I agree that you have a head injury risk with a roll bar on the streets (of course if it's a roll over, that risk is there anyway), but at the same time, I feel safer with mine because I know I won't have the same certainty of being crushed if the car were to end up wrong side up. I do have that added concern of cracking my skull open on a hard rear impact or a side impact, or any impact for that matter really.
Old Jun 1, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jeff_man
you better rectify your statement with proof cuz your talking jive turkey. how in the hell could a real roll bar be more dangerous.
Without SFI approved padding and a SNELL approved helmet, your skull is a sitting duck in the event of an accident. How many of these cars roll over in a wreck vs staying shiny side up?

I have a 6 point bar in the Miata, but have 6 point Sabelt harnesses in it also in the hopes that it will keep me and the passengers head away from the roll bar in the event of an accident.
Old Jun 1, 2010 | 01:45 PM
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Weird, this looks like mt.net but I think this thread is from m.net.
Old Jun 1, 2010 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mgeoffriau
Weird, this looks like mt.net but I think this thread is from m.net.
Nah, no one here has chrome vents. Added weight + added cost - benefit = FAIL
Old Jun 1, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by chpmnsws6
Nah, no one here has chrome vents.
You sure about that?
Old Jun 1, 2010 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chpmnsws6
Without SFI approved padding and a SNELL approved helmet, your skull is a sitting duck in the event of an accident. How many of these cars roll over in a wreck vs staying shiny side up?

I have a 6 point bar in the Miata, but have 6 point Sabelt harnesses in it also in the hopes that it will keep me and the passengers head away from the roll bar in the event of an accident.
you can pad a roll bar , you can't make frog arms crush in a wreck and should pad if your seats are lower then your bar. my seats go up leave with the top of my bar so i hit seat not bar.



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