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Old 03-26-2008, 09:13 AM   #1
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Default can you help me with timing?

Was hopeing i can get some help retarding my timing... 1.6

whem looking at the timing scale with a timing light do i want to turn the mark to the right or left? and how far for max retarding?

thanks
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:19 AM   #2
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The mark on the wheel will move to the right as you retard timing. The "T" represents Top Dead Center and the individual marks are 2 degrees. The stock timing setting of 10 degrees before TDC is indicated by the "10"

A basic rule of thumb is 1 degree off of stock for each 1 psi of boost. So if you are running 4 psi of boost, your timing would be set at 6 degrees BTDC
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:24 AM   #3
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Clean off your timing indicator. The plastic piece with the marks on it is integrated into the lower timing belt cover. Just hit it with some simple green and a toothbrush to get the oil/dirt off. The "T" and "10" marks are very clear.
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:28 AM   #4
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thanks guys !!

is it safe if im running 7 lbs. to retard it below tdc? from what i understand is it will prob. just effect idle?
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoomnick View Post
thanks guys !!

is it safe if im running 7 lbs. to retard it below tdc? from what i understand is it will prob. just effect idle?
You don't need to be below TDC, ever.
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Old 03-27-2008, 12:37 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoomnick View Post
thanks guys !!

is it safe if im running 7 lbs. to retard it below tdc? from what i understand is it will prob. just effect idle?
When you change the base timing, you're offsetting the entire timing map. If you were previously at 25*BTDC going down the highway, and you drop the base timing 7*, your timing at the same cruising speed will only be 18*. Some of the fuel that was being used for power is now being wasted as heat. Mileage will go down, the load on the cooling system will go up, and in extreme cases you can burn exhaust valves. While it allows you to run boost without blowing things up, keep in mind that you're screwing up the other parts of the map too.

[rant]I'll probably offend people by saying this, but if you're going through the trouble and expense of forced induction, why do things half-assed? If you're lucky you'll just waste fuel and have shitty off-boost performance, if you're not lucky you'll hurt the motor. I think it's safe to assume that if you're guessing on ignition advance, then you're probably guessing on fueling and knock too. If the engine is disposable and you're entering the Grassroots $2008 Challenge, buidling the car for the 24 Hours of Lemons, or dealing with some sort of racing classification restrictions then go right ahead and cut all the corners you like, I can understand that. Otherwise, why not just do it right? [/rant]
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Old 03-27-2008, 12:51 AM   #7
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Nothing wrong with retarding the timing down to 6 or so, after that i would get a timing retard device or a real ecu.
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Old 03-27-2008, 09:29 PM   #8
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Interesting thread - I believe Corky's rule of thumb (correct me if I'm off here - been a while since I played with my maps) is pull no timing up to 5psi then pull 1deg per psi. ?
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