can't get it to start!
08-13-2010, 10:44 AM
#41
Cpt. Slow
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I'm wondering if it's a CAS failure. Doesn't the CAS have something to do with the coil triggers?
I was almost as fail. I was running two cylinders and decided to convert to cops. Guess what, I was still on 2. Go figure.
I was almost as fail. I was running two cylinders and decided to convert to cops. Guess what, I was still on 2. Go figure.
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08-13-2010, 03:13 PM
#42
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how would i use the multimeter? just by seeing if anything is traveling down the wires?
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08-13-2010, 03:45 PM
#43
Boost Pope
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I told you it wasn't the cam sensor. You'd be getting a CEL.
If every coil you try works on 2&3, and none work on 1&4, the problem isn't the coils.
False, at least for Miata coils. The two sides are completely seperate, apart from sharing the same +12 and ground.
The problem isn't your coils.
Uhm, yeah. Wow.
Set the meter to ohms or continuity. Touch the probes together so you can see what it looks like when you've got a connection. Then stick one probe on either end of the brown and brown/yellow wires (one end at coil, the other at ECU. You'll probably need a length of wire to extend one of the probes.)
i have brand new coils on the way and i am hoping that its been some failing coils messing with it. so far i have 4 different used coils and they only work on side 2&3.
i read on another forum about someone having this problem and it said that the resistance of 1 coil can make the other one not work.....
The problem isn't your coils.
how would i use the multimeter? just by seeing if anything is traveling down the wires?
Set the meter to ohms or continuity. Touch the probes together so you can see what it looks like when you've got a connection. Then stick one probe on either end of the brown and brown/yellow wires (one end at coil, the other at ECU. You'll probably need a length of wire to extend one of the probes.)
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08-13-2010, 07:09 PM
#44
Cpt. Slow
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The beeping feature on most multimeters is really useful. If there's continuity, it beeps while it's connected.
Good to know about the CAS triggering the CEL, didn't know that.
+1 on coils being fine. You rewired it so your 1&4 is running off your 2&3 wiring like I told you, right? That'll tell you it's fine.
Good to know about the CAS triggering the CEL, didn't know that.
+1 on coils being fine. You rewired it so your 1&4 is running off your 2&3 wiring like I told you, right? That'll tell you it's fine.
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08-17-2010, 12:39 AM
#51
Boost Pope
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Not exactly (there are actually four pulses, unevenly spaced) but the general idea is correct.
My point is that if the sensor itself were defective, you wouldn't be getting spark on any of the plugs. If everything you've said is correct, that you have good and consistent spark at 2 & 3, but not at 1 & 4, the crankshaft sensor is almost certainly not at fault. It either works or it doesn't.
For what you've now spent on parts, you could have bought a new oscilloscope and figured out what was actually wrong. Or had the car towed to a shop and paid someone else to do it for you.
My point is that if the sensor itself were defective, you wouldn't be getting spark on any of the plugs. If everything you've said is correct, that you have good and consistent spark at 2 & 3, but not at 1 & 4, the crankshaft sensor is almost certainly not at fault. It either works or it doesn't.
For what you've now spent on parts, you could have bought a new oscilloscope and figured out what was actually wrong. Or had the car towed to a shop and paid someone else to do it for you.
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08-17-2010, 08:30 AM
#52
There are 3 grounds in the engine bay. One of them connects the drivers side firewall to the midpoint on the dipstick tube. The second is found at the front of the engine on the mechanic's left of the first plastic timing belt cover. The third is located at the rear of the intake manifold. I very highly doubt any of these is your problem, because I'm almost positive your problem is a broken wire, but check them all for tightness anyways.
As I've already suggested: Go to the hardware section of your local department store. Spend $20 on a multimeter and a spool of 16-18ga. wire. Test your wires from coil pack connector to ECU to find out which wire is bad. Replace the bad wire. If you don't know how to use a multimeter, they are generally packaged with instructional material. Alternatively, you can google that ****. Every mechanic worth his weight in dogshit will have a multimeter. They are about as indespensible as a good ratchet, and as easy to use as a good wrench. In this case, if you had and used a multimeter, you probably could have saved a couple hundred dollars by not buying coil packs and CASs. Neither of those are cheap - I know.
Do you by chance know a guy, goes by the name 'hyper'? I think you and he would make great pals!
As I've already suggested: Go to the hardware section of your local department store. Spend $20 on a multimeter and a spool of 16-18ga. wire. Test your wires from coil pack connector to ECU to find out which wire is bad. Replace the bad wire. If you don't know how to use a multimeter, they are generally packaged with instructional material. Alternatively, you can google that ****. Every mechanic worth his weight in dogshit will have a multimeter. They are about as indespensible as a good ratchet, and as easy to use as a good wrench. In this case, if you had and used a multimeter, you probably could have saved a couple hundred dollars by not buying coil packs and CASs. Neither of those are cheap - I know.
Do you by chance know a guy, goes by the name 'hyper'? I think you and he would make great pals!
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08-17-2010, 08:44 AM
#53
wow...I don't even know where to start...
My uncle, who's a master mechanic likes to say: "Any monkey can swap parts, but a real mechanics will diagnose the problem first."
You've gone ten different directions in this thread, all while being clear as the Mississippi and ignoring good advice.
My uncle, who's a master mechanic likes to say: "Any monkey can swap parts, but a real mechanics will diagnose the problem first."
You've gone ten different directions in this thread, all while being clear as the Mississippi and ignoring good advice.
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08-17-2010, 08:50 AM
#54
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I would put your car back to stock, then start following the advice of Joe Perez. Stop buying coil packs. Also you don't need to say "new to me used" just used will get the point across, we will assume you didn't buy it from yourself.
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08-17-2010, 02:45 PM
#55
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yes i have a multimeter and yes it only sparks on 2 and 3. i don't know how a wire could loose when i have not touched anything up till that point it stalled. well crank sensor will be here soon. i guess wires go bad out of no where lol
i have to keep pushing the car up the street because the cops are trying to tow it
i have to keep pushing the car up the street because the cops are trying to tow it
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