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Old 08-13-2010, 11:44 AM   #41
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I'm wondering if it's a CAS failure. Doesn't the CAS have something to do with the coil triggers?

I was almost as fail. I was running two cylinders and decided to convert to cops. Guess what, I was still on 2. Go figure.
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Old 08-13-2010, 04:13 PM   #42
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I'm wondering if it's a CAS failure. Doesn't the CAS have something to do with the coil triggers?

I was almost as fail. I was running two cylinders and decided to convert to cops. Guess what, I was still on 2. Go figure.
well i just replaced the cam sensor and no luck. i was trying to add an extra ground and no luck. i switched everything around, and around and saw 1 little spark off number 1 plug for the first sec i turned the key then after that i got nothing all day. i have brand new coils on the way and i am hoping that its been some failing coils messing with it. so far i have 4 different used coils and they only work on side 2&3. i read on another forum about someone having this problem and it said that the resistance of 1 coil can make the other one not work.....

how would i use the multimeter? just by seeing if anything is traveling down the wires?
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Old 08-13-2010, 04:45 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by nickblackbelt View Post
well i just replaced the cam sensor and no luck.
I told you it wasn't the cam sensor. You'd be getting a CEL.

Quote:
i have brand new coils on the way and i am hoping that its been some failing coils messing with it. so far i have 4 different used coils and they only work on side 2&3.
If every coil you try works on 2&3, and none work on 1&4, the problem isn't the coils.


Quote:
i read on another forum about someone having this problem and it said that the resistance of 1 coil can make the other one not work.....
False, at least for Miata coils. The two sides are completely seperate, apart from sharing the same +12 and ground.

The problem isn't your coils.



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how would i use the multimeter? just by seeing if anything is traveling down the wires?
Uhm, yeah. Wow.

Set the meter to ohms or continuity. Touch the probes together so you can see what it looks like when you've got a connection. Then stick one probe on either end of the brown and brown/yellow wires (one end at coil, the other at ECU. You'll probably need a length of wire to extend one of the probes.)
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Old 08-13-2010, 08:09 PM   #44
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The beeping feature on most multimeters is really useful. If there's continuity, it beeps while it's connected.

Good to know about the CAS triggering the CEL, didn't know that.

+1 on coils being fine. You rewired it so your 1&4 is running off your 2&3 wiring like I told you, right? That'll tell you it's fine.
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Old 08-16-2010, 09:20 PM   #45
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Hope you get her sorted out soon man, those coils I sent you sparked perfectly so I don't think a new set is the solution. Test all the pairs with your multimeter & rank them vs new just to be sure.

Good luck, at least you'll have sets of back-up coils!
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:36 AM   #46
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Hope you get her sorted out soon man, those coils I sent you sparked perfectly so I don't think a new set is the solution. Test all the pairs with your multimeter & rank them vs new just to be sure.

Good luck, at least you'll have sets of back-up coils!
yeah lol its my damn crank sensor i am waiting on a new one
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:40 AM   #47
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yeah lol its my damn crank sensor i am waiting on a new one
Oh, how could I have missed something so obvious? Yeah, a bad crank sensor totally explains why you're getting spark on 2 & 3 but not on 1 & 4.
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:42 AM   #48
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Oh, how could I have missed something so obvious? Yeah, a bad crank sensor totally explains why you're getting spark on 2 & 3 but not on 1 & 4.
after days and days of reading a fooling with the car i was like DUHHH.... i dont know why i was not thinking this before. either that or a loose wire
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:47 AM   #49
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I was being sarcastic. It's almost inconceivable that the crank sensor could be at fault here.
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:49 AM   #50
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I was being sarcastic. It's almost inconceivable that the crank sensor could be at fault here.
why is that? doesn't it send signal at 180 then send another signal at 360?
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Old 08-17-2010, 01:39 AM   #51
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Not exactly (there are actually four pulses, unevenly spaced) but the general idea is correct.

My point is that if the sensor itself were defective, you wouldn't be getting spark on any of the plugs. If everything you've said is correct, that you have good and consistent spark at 2 & 3, but not at 1 & 4, the crankshaft sensor is almost certainly not at fault. It either works or it doesn't.

For what you've now spent on parts, you could have bought a new oscilloscope and figured out what was actually wrong. Or had the car towed to a shop and paid someone else to do it for you.
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Old 08-17-2010, 09:30 AM   #52
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There are 3 grounds in the engine bay. One of them connects the drivers side firewall to the midpoint on the dipstick tube. The second is found at the front of the engine on the mechanic's left of the first plastic timing belt cover. The third is located at the rear of the intake manifold. I very highly doubt any of these is your problem, because I'm almost positive your problem is a broken wire, but check them all for tightness anyways.

As I've already suggested: Go to the hardware section of your local department store. Spend $20 on a multimeter and a spool of 16-18ga. wire. Test your wires from coil pack connector to ECU to find out which wire is bad. Replace the bad wire. If you don't know how to use a multimeter, they are generally packaged with instructional material. Alternatively, you can google that ****. Every mechanic worth his weight in dogshit will have a multimeter. They are about as indespensible as a good ratchet, and as easy to use as a good wrench. In this case, if you had and used a multimeter, you probably could have saved a couple hundred dollars by not buying coil packs and CASs. Neither of those are cheap - I know.

Do you by chance know a guy, goes by the name 'hyper'? I think you and he would make great pals!
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Old 08-17-2010, 09:44 AM   #53
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wow...I don't even know where to start...


My uncle, who's a master mechanic likes to say: "Any monkey can swap parts, but a real mechanics will diagnose the problem first."


You've gone ten different directions in this thread, all while being clear as the Mississippi and ignoring good advice.
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Old 08-17-2010, 09:50 AM   #54
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I would put your car back to stock, then start following the advice of Joe Perez. Stop buying coil packs. Also you don't need to say "new to me used" just used will get the point across, we will assume you didn't buy it from yourself.
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Old 08-17-2010, 03:45 PM   #55
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yes i have a multimeter and yes it only sparks on 2 and 3. i don't know how a wire could loose when i have not touched anything up till that point it stalled. well crank sensor will be here soon. i guess wires go bad out of no where lol
i have to keep pushing the car up the street because the cops are trying to tow it
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:34 PM   #56
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Quote:
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i don't know how a wire could loose when i have not touched anything up till that point it stalled.
Has the engine ever been run? Running engines create vibrations....

...now I'm not sayin'...

...I'm just sayin'...

...You know what I'm sayin'?...
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Old 08-17-2010, 08:34 PM   #57
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(Flounder fails at reading this thread before posting in it.)

Last edited by Joe Perez; 08-17-2010 at 10:14 PM.
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:09 PM   #58
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A quick read through would have unveiled that OP can get good spark on 2&3, but when he moves the coil and wires to the 1&4 coil connector, there is no spark.
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