Which is what I am wondering. What would cause injector(s) to go full tilt?
I have not heard of any problems with the RCs in Miatas....but I'm open to hearing cases of this in Miatas. If it were the injectors, what would be a good bet? IDs?

When tinkering with the car on the side of the road, I didn't check all of the plugs, just 1 and 3. I will check all 4 today when I get home.

Seems the best way to check fuel pressure on the NB is to pul lthe carpet up, and access the lines from the pump and add a t-fitting and go from there. Would be a good time to check the strainer as well.

Not sure what would cause this, but in the scoob I was tuning we just finished tuning it, having taken the injectors to about 80% IDC a few times while logging, and on the way back to the shop. He comes to a stop light, the car stalls. Takes like 10 tries when it finally fires back up, but is super weak. Strong fuel smell. A block later it dies again, this time not re-firing no matter how many times we tried. Fuel is pooling in the manifolds at this point. Got it towed. I tell him to replace injectors. He does. Car is 100% fine.

RC's are older then dirt, and ev1...or something. I wouldn't be surprised to see them fail. Most people I talked to wouldn't run them even if they were paid to do it.


Good luck
Hope that helps a little

I guess I can check that by pulling all the plugs and turning it over to see if any spray more vapor out over the others....which is something I was going to do anyway when I check all of them.

The quick-disconnects at all junctions in the NB fuel system make adding a t-fitting kinda difficult.

Here's how I would troubleshoot:

1. Bring up the Hydra software. With the car on (not started) make sure you have MAP signal! Make sure you have air temp sensor signal, water temp signal.

2. Visually Inspect crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor wiring, and wiring going to your coils. If your cam angle wiring is fuxed car will be unhappy but may still run with Hydra.

3. Disconnect Fuel rail line from hard line in engine bay. Turn key, and when pump primes make sure fuel flows out of hard line. A lot of fuel should flow out.

4. Reconnect Line. Crank car for ten seconds with throttle closed. Pull plugs and look at them. If one is not wet then you have an injector problem.

5. While plugs are out, connect them to your cops and lay them on your valve cover. Crank the car with the throttle wide open. Visually check that each plug is happily sparking.

6. Vacuum leak test, compression test.


My bet though is that it is a problem with an injector or plug. Or maybe a coil pack. I have an 03 coil pack I can sell you if that's the problem. If it is a coil pack, you will have problems on two cylinders. If one cylinder is down it will sound like a diesel. If two cylinders are down it won't sound like anything because the car won't run.

Why don't you have AAA?

e: Didn't actually read the thread before posting, just stunned at the idea of someone driving a heavily modified car WITHOUT having an AAA membership. (Or really driving anything anywhere ever without one.)

Why would you pay extra for that? My insurance covers towing for a whopping $4 per car every six months. So, 16 bucks a year covers towing.

checking the MAP signal is a good idear.

Because of this....

lol!

It's apparently a massive problem which every MK2.5 suffers from in the UK (If you believe some people). It's not that bad but it does happen.

So definitely check the pressed on timing wheel on the back of the intake cam isn't loose/has moved.

I'll bet it was that damn sasquatch!

I check nb fuel pressure where the fuel line first goes into that pulsation dampener thingy by the passenger shock tower. My master fuel pressure tester has an adapter that will fit but will not lock, requiring you to manually hold the two ends together while someone else does the cranking/ko test.

It sounds computer related to me, but it never hurts to check around the injector harness for bare wiring or something that would have rubbed through and contacted metal causing a stuck on injector or four. :party:

I drive 300 miles each way to Lake Havasu City every month or two in the vette, and I don't have towing or AAA. :giggle:

Dop, did you figure out what was going on with your NB?

I honestly have not even touched the car since it was towed home on Wednesday night. I want to get someone to come over and go over the car with me as an outside point of view.
I really am stumped about it though...and am pretty discouraged :/

I have to agree with what someone said earlier about AAA. AAA has helped me out so many times when I've been stuck in similar situations. You can get 7 tows for what you paid for in one night. It's a good investment. But don't be discouraged on wanting to get the miata back on the road! A second opinion from someone by you will help!

Oh, on the subject of towing- When I went into my State Farm rep. to get my refund check, they said that they recently added a new service for towing. Now, insted of paying the bill and filing for reimbursement, you just call a 1-800 number and they find a truck and send it out. Nice to know this now. So no more paying for tows.

You should follow the troubleshooting checklist i posted. If MAP line fell off you would be very rich cranking.

Oddly enough, that was one of the first things I checked.

Well, I figured out why there is so much fuel is getting by. I have fuel, I have spark.....but I have no compression.
1- 75psi
2- 79psi
3- 75psi
4- 76psi

So...W T F??
I want to say no way is it a bad engine..not all 4 cylinders like that. It was a sudden loss of power while driving at low rpm and not in boost. I'm thinkin something cam/VVT related...was told by Jeremy @ FM to lock the cam gears together and put a wrench on the cam and see if it moves at all...indicating a funked VVT system.

too even to be bad motor...but there's obviously something preventing full compression...

HAS to be something with timing, intake and exhaust valves overlapping or something.

Snapped cam or damaged Woodruff key?