if you go in the for sale section its already listed for sale!

Updates!

With the steering rack out did the FM "depower" removing the inner seal.
http://i38.tinypic.com/sy82ll.jpg
Also took the opportunity to clean it up and replaced the ripped inner boots. The ball joint boots were also ripped but didnt get to replace those:bang:.
http://i36.tinypic.com/2zg5ibo.jpg
rolled the car outside for some cleaning, need to clear out that gunk if im going to drill that oil pan soon.
http://i36.tinypic.com/25jb0xk.jpg
stuff works great!
http://i33.tinypic.com/2cp2g44.jpg
after
http://i33.tinypic.com/2zez8tk.jpg
Steering rack in place.
http://i34.tinypic.com/bjhoom.jpg
and this is where i called it a day, notice the new guage position.
http://i37.tinypic.com/20fojr4.jpg

Hooray for progress!:yippee:

im between 10/281 on 1604, i dont mind watching, *ahem* helping you

ok now that i have to start spending some mondy i have some questions.
I have done my research just looking for some more clear answeres.

Regarding clutch/flywheel:

I plan on going with the act heavy duty clutch and pressure plate, i feel it would be a good balance between grabbing power and drivetrain stress. Any objections?good choice?

Should i just lighten my stock flywheel, if so whats the consensous on how light?
Since the 1.8 flywheel is compatible is there any benefits to running the 1.8 flywheel with the proper clutch for it?

Regarding turbo oil lines:

Mainly replacing the old ones off the greddy as i plan on running the turbo after all.
I saw the saved post reguarding the fitting needed for the feed line but why use a banjo at the block? and not a straight fitting? also any benefits to running -4 instead of -3?

Planning on tapping the pan for the return as the 10feet long greddy return isnt going to cut it. First off -8 or -10? Running a -8 or -10 fitting at the pan, how do i go about running a an fitting at the turbo also? Is there something like this for the greddy turbo http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...oducts_id=187?

ok that all the question i have for now, thanks in advance for the help

I'd keep the Greddy and just upgrade the downpipe, exhaust and engine management. That Greddy turbo is a great little turbo and will make 270 on a 1.6 engine at 16-17psi.

Just my 2 cents.. I like Corky's stuff (have it on my own car), but you have a great starting turbo already and it is free.

Thanks for the advice Marc, thats what i decided to do.
The questions above acctually pertain to me keeping it and upgrading the oil lines and such. any advice on that?

I tried shaving down the stock 1.6 flywheel to about 15 lbs which was 18 lb stock, but after moving on to an 10lb fidanza 1.8 flywheel and Exedy clutch.. it was night and day. 32% better grabbing power with the same exedy clutch from 1.6-1.8. with the 10lbs flywheels made the unboosted area to be much more lively. Worth every penny.

your saying the grabing power increased from going grom the 1.6 to 1.8 clutch? and its completly bolt on?
cause i also have a 1.8 stock flywheel i can shave down... and use

Some none greasy progress today.
I clocked the greddy turbo to 6o'clock (a broom stick and a cheater bar did the trick)
but thats it for acctually working on the car. but i did spend some $$$

went to mazda and order the plug for the greddy oil return location near the oil filter, also orderd a new shifter rubber gasket/boot as mine was shredded and letting lots of heat up.
ordered all the fitting im going to need from anplumbing to replace the original oil feed line and return line.
Ordered a gasket set for the turbo, along with a oil drain flange so i can run a -10 fitting right off it.

so now im broke for the weekend....

progress, you guys were probably thinking i gave up:fawk:

Car jacked up as high as we could get it, made getting the tranny out a snap. Took less than 2 hours to drop the tranny.
http://i36.tinypic.com/2hdmlfl.jpg
With the tranny out i moved on to removing the dash and all the heater/AC components underneath. Once again everything came out pretty easy.
http://i36.tinypic.com/308v8di.jpg
So the tranny out along with everything from the dash.
http://i35.tinypic.com/j7e1qc.jpg

Started fixing the damage caused by the leaky brake master cylinder. Area sanded now and ready for some rattle can paint.
http://i35.tinypic.com/2e24jmx.jpg
and a little touch up to the brake booster itself
http://i35.tinypic.com/2q8yc1t.jpg

should have some parts coming in the mail soon. still waiting some money to do the clutch. i decided to go with a 1.8 flywheel and have it lightened and run a 1.8 ACT hd. comments??
will i be able to get the 1.8 flywheel pretty light? i know i already weights more than the 1.6...

Why don't you just drill the pan for the oil return? Or did I misunderstand you.

A lightened OEM Flywheel is alot cheaper and better bang for the buck IMHO.

Chris

I'm planning on drilling the oil pan, just wating on the fittings. Friend also is letting me borrow a 90degree drill which will make it even easier.

Hopefully i can get the 1.8 flywheel light enough.

painted the bay where it was leaking brake fluid and ate up the paint., also put the booster back on and the new master cylinder.

dash also went back in today.

pics soon

some much needed updates on the build,
Thanks to craig letting me borrow his drill and tap, the oil pan got drilled (didnt see what the fuss is all about, pretty simple)
http://i35.tinypic.com/awox8n.jpg
new feed fittings
http://i36.tinypic.com/16c56hc.jpg
Had two broken studs on the manifold, one came out pretty fast with an easy-out, the other had to be drilled and tapped.
http://i36.tinypic.com/241ro0g.jpg
With the manifold fixed i was able to mock up the turbo to measure the oil lines ( not sure why people say to use 30+ in for the feed, im looking at 24in)
You can also see where i painted the bay under master cylinder. Also new master cylinder went in and the painted brake booster.
http://i34.tinypic.com/2ls6t6q.jpg
also heres the shot of the interior with the dash back in.
http://i34.tinypic.com/2hntcud.jpg

Nice job! Looking very clean. Just don't park next to me, it'll make my setup look twice as bad as it already does!

it's getting there!
money is tight so we'll see if it gets done by next event!
not much left so keeping my fingers crossed.

What event?

Chris

just the sasca autox event, i also run with spokes in austin. We'll the austin club even tough they race here in san antonio.


Did the foam thing with the stock seat, it'll do for now but defnetly not going to cut it for too long...

been thinking about going with a alluminum seat, like a kirkey. i sat in the car with out a seat and it still felt small...

oil lines all done!!
http://i33.tinypic.com/69qmva.jpg
http://i36.tinypic.com/2el9ijc.jpg

came out pretty good i think.

all i was really able to get done today but i did receive some money this week so i should be finishing the car up pretty soon.
I think im pretty decided on my seat of choice, going to go with the kerkey intermediate 20degree layback
http://kirkeyracing.com/images/Thumb...EED_Medium.JPG

That's some pretty clean oil line routing.
:bigtu:

Chris

Yes, very clean!

I think I was discouraging you from putting in a seat. I keep forgetting that it's not going to be a dd for you. A properly fitting Kirkey seat is awesome. Comfortable and it holds you very well. The only complaint I have about it is while flailing on the wheel (big steering/countersteering inputs...) the side bolster would interfere with my arm/elbow. And it's a lot harder to get in and out of.