re ClutchNet... I think Alex and Oleg are the owners (russian accents?)
they've always been a little weird to deal with for me too but somehow got everything right more than once for a decent price. I think part numbers aren't something they're used to. |
What is the best non-puck disk that clutchnet sells for the 1.6?
|
I still wish FM would have straightened out their kevlar clutch problems with Clutchmasters. Some failed because of a QC problem with the rivets. I had a good one though that held the abuse of an early FMII at 220 rwhp and had stock pedal effort. I might have to try clutchmasters again if this Spec stage II starts slipping.
Frank |
I had to be persistent to get the info from clutchnet guys, but the product looks top notch and has worked well for the first 200 miles.
though this looks like a puck disc, it doesn't grab like one because of the friction material. I was told this is the highest level non-ceramitallic they have. |
It is a great Heavy Duty clutch disc for street racing. Thanks for the recommendation. |
Originally Posted by jayc72
(Post 74271)
What is the best non-puck disk that clutchnet sells for the 1.6?
if you want drivable, get a heavy pressure plate and an organic disk. sure it'll hurt your leg but the rest will work right. |
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 74351)
frankly I think organic.
if you want drivable, get a heavy pressure plate and an organic disk. sure it'll hurt your leg but the rest will work right. Who knows, I might be just fine with what I've got. I was just considering options in the event that things go south. |
maybe that's what alex had in mind for me.
heh first 200 miles on the car, or first 200 after break in?
Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 74311)
I had to be persistent to get the info from clutchnet guys, but the product looks top notch and has worked well for the first 200 miles.
though this looks like a puck disc, it doesn't grab like one because of the friction material. I was told this is the highest level non-ceramitallic they have. |
Originally Posted by braineack
(Post 74243)
I acutally haven't gotten it to slip since that one day when NeoGenesis2004 was in the car. but still I want to eventually run 250rwhp so I might as well not risk it. plus i was already going to drop the tranny.
|
I think it is usually 500 miles or so isn't it?
|
Every clutch i'm familiar with 500 miles is the safe zone for break in. In other words, one good weekend to Atlanta and back.
|
Yep 500 miles
|
That'll be a tough 500 miles. Might take me 2 months. :td:
What do I want to avoid--fast starts, power, or both? Can I bring boost down to greddy stock 5-6 psi (ugh) and take it easy, or should I totally keep it in vacuum? Traffic is NOT a problem here. |
I also beleive that those 500 miles are supposed to be in traffic :)
|
My dad explained to me that you don't want to shock the clutch. Try driving with an open cup of coffee on your dash.:bigtu:
|
Originally Posted by jayc72
(Post 74418)
I have a Spec stage 2 with less than 5K on it installed in the car now. In the event that I have trouble I'd like to replace the disk only if that is indeed the potential weak part of the Spec clutch.
Who knows, I might be just fine with what I've got. I was just considering options in the event that things go south. that's the key to a good clutch. low dynamic coeff of friction + high static coeff of friction. there isn't such a beast. maybe I should design a kevlar-copper alternating puck setup. that'd be real cool. have the kevlar engage first and then once it's there, let the copper grab. |
what about something like I'm putting in?
The PP side is a standard 23-spline disc, the flywheel side; (8) pucks of kevlar material. |
I'm thinking about these guys:
http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/home.html They did the clutch in my vw which has a slightly stiffer pedal feel, and held 410lb/ft at the wheels. He quoted me a price cheaper than the website in email, and said he can raise the engagement point for us people that don't like pressing the pedal all the way to the floor. I know results are not the same from each application, but atleast the friction material stayed on the disc unlike my clutchnet disc that only lasted 1 week. |
Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 74430)
That'll be a tough 500 miles. Might take me 2 months. :td:
What do I want to avoid--fast starts, power, or both? Can I bring boost down to greddy stock 5-6 psi (ugh) and take it easy, or should I totally keep it in vacuum? Traffic is NOT a problem here. |
Originally Posted by braineack
(Post 74452)
what about something like I'm putting in?
The PP side is a standard 23-spline disc, the flywheel side; (8) pucks of kevlar material. as far as kevlar goes, it's a hard material to deal with... it glazes easily and has a lower cf than organic. but it engages nicely in my experience. I had this on my celica alltrac: http://www.toyheadauto.com/J-pegs/TRDClutchKit.JPG and it mostly made stink smell when i did clutch drops. so if you could find a way to make ONLY the kevlar engage first, then you could have nice slippage and when you were, say 50% engaged, have the copper take over... bam power holding and decent engagement. question is: how do you make the kevlar not wear out right away. I was thinking maybe using a marcel under the kevlar but not the copper... hrm. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:17 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands