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Crank Pulley Bolt Help (part number discrepancies)

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Old Jan 4, 2025 | 11:30 AM
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Default Crank Pulley Bolt Help (part number discrepancies)

(99 NB1)


So I snapped one of the bolts holding the crank pulley on. No big deal I go to Mazda and get four replacements (JF01-11-405a) come home and realize those bolts are significantly shorter than what I pulled off. Looking on their parts website it looks like i should need 11-376.

I called Mazda and their parts guy confirmed what I was seeing was correct but that it just keeps being superseded by that 405a part number.

at a loss at how I get this pulley back on, even online I’m seeing crank bolts that look like that 405a part but will not fit.
Old Jan 4, 2025 | 11:56 AM
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It's a M6x1 bolt, very common. Go to a parts store and get the correct length in a 10.9, flanged head, zinc bolt. Torque to 10 ft/lbs with some loctite.

The '99 has a very thick pulley boss, which required the longer bolt. They got rid of that for later years, so although the parts superseded, what he's not realizing is that the pulley is too. You'd have to change over about 3 parts, boss, pulley, and the little torque washer.
Old Jan 4, 2025 | 11:59 AM
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From m.net (shudder)

Lol at "brown" and "black. It's called rust and new.


Old Jan 4, 2025 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
From m.net (shudder)

Lol at "brown" and "black. It's called rust and new.

Wow ok that makes so much more sense, I stumbled on a Reddit thread where someone had the opposite problem (getting a new pulley and stock bolts being too long)

appreciate the help! Is it worth updating that pulley while I’m in here? Rubber is pretty shot and I’ve been upgrading what I can before the turbo goes on.
Old Jan 4, 2025 | 12:10 PM
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Usually not a bad idea to either replace with new OE or a fluidr/ati damper. According to the thread I grabbed the picture off of, they were arguing how to tell when to replace it. Some said they last 300k, others say as soon as the rubber starts cracking, others only when the outer shell has slipped so timing marks are no longer accurate. This was 2017, so the guy with 300k on his was only 17-18 years old, now 25-26, so best bet is just replace it.
Old Jan 4, 2025 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
Usually not a bad idea to either replace with new OE or a fluidr/ati damper. According to the thread I grabbed the picture off of, they were arguing how to tell when to replace it. Some said they last 300k, others say as soon as the rubber starts cracking, others only when the outer shell has slipped so timing marks are no longer accurate. This was 2017, so the guy with 300k on his was only 17-18 years old, now 25-26, so best bet is just replace it.
Thanks Curly, really appreciate the quick response!
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