Crankcase breather/ Catch can / Evac system thread.
 

Since discussions about this are scattered off topic posts in other threads I figured Id start a new one.

This is what I did and I haven’t tested it yet. I will say I have a lot of experience with failure at coming up with a good system that works well on a really high hp track and street car while trying many things that others have come up with. I think this has good potential.

Both sides of the valve cover with opened up internal passegeas plus a port added in the side of the block are vented to a catch can with a separator system in it. It has a drain back to the very bottom of the oil pan sump. the catch can separator it is vented to a slash tube with a check valve using exhaust flow which should pull a slight vacuum on the whole setup and suck water vapor out.

Bob

In to share results, I just got the one way exhaust valve to install, and will have my valve cover off to install my new cams latter today so I can enlarge the holes. On the slash tube for the exhaust is it suppose to intrude into the exhaust or just be cut off flush at a 45? it would seem that intrusion into the exhaust flow would have a greater affect but I have not installed one of these and was wondering what is the correct method.

I used a Moroso nipple it has a notch cut in it to set depth. It extends in about ¼” Id say if you follow the instructions. Click on 25900

http://www.moroso.com/instructions.asp

Bob

Looks good. You have no under-car chassis bracing?

For the consolidated record here's my pipe. Slashcut is situated next to the bell housing. I am just clamping the hose onto the valve; no fitting.

Attachment 241328

and my bay:

Attachment 241329

sealed catch can is in the mail. I am using a single -12 line which is as you can see, a big bastard. Probably about 20% less inner diameter area than Bob's two -10 lines.

The two lines going to my valve cover are -8. The one going to the block and everything else is -10.

Lot of money in all those fittings I dont want to even look at the total.

Your line looks awful close to hot exhaust parts for me. I have barbequed lines that close to the exhaust even braided stainless. Works fine for the street but track driving barbeques everything. I use Firesleve on my turbo lines near the exhaust. The other option I looked at is Earls Ultra Flex 650 hose. It is good for 500 F, nearly double what other hoses will handle but it is $42 a foot in -10 size. Bob

Where do you get your line wraps and heat shielding products?

Dang, I was looking at the temp ratings and the highest I found was 350* Earls hose. But !!!!!!! $42/foot??? Dang that would hurt.

I did pick up some "Heat Sheath" for the hose though:

http://www.designengineering.com/cat...nized-sleeving

Hopefully that will last. I had this stuff before for my water/oil lines and it melted from ambient heat!

http://www.designengineering.com/cat...l-tube-extreme


Eventually, after my can comes in, I think I will run it under then manifold, and along the transmission instead of above the turbo.

Brands:

DEI

Thermotec


I buy mine from Amazon :)

I’ve used Aeroquip fire sleeve

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...988/Firesleeve

and DEI fire sleeve

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010472/

Seems to make the hose resistant to more like a continuous 500F.

The DEI stuff is a bit thinner and comes in a better color choice.

Bob

So I just went out for a drive and I suppose the setup works- my seals didn't blow or anything. I did a few WOT pulls while looking in the mirror and didn't see any smoke clouds so I guess the exhaust burn-up isn't that bad.

When I dyno in a few weeks I will do a pull with the hose attached and a pull with the valve cover just VTA.

Could anyone recommend a cheap way to test the vacuum on the hose with a pressure gauge? Do I just have to rig up a pile of adapters?

Great thread. Nice job Bob, I'm looking forward to the results!

Faeflora - You will need a very sensitive pressure gauge. My guess is that the amount of vacuum is less than 1/2 of a psi.

I recently checked valve cover/crank case pressure on the dyno. I saw 10-11" of water max (about 0.4 psi).

I used a "u-tube" manometer to take measurements.

I took readings from the oil cap. I drilled a spare cap and installed a 3/16" barb, and ran tubing from the barb to the manometer. Worked great!

Good ideas everyone.

Pic of vibrant's setup showing the shape of the pipe that goes into the exhaust stream.

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...oducts_id=1243

No way. Judging from a great honda-tech thread I read, it will be more than 1/2 a psi of sucking on the slashcut.

Woops, not much more. Here is the thread:

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1199935

fuck yall and your high dollar shit, damn my project cheap. :cry:
I just use 5\8 hyrdualic hose.
and 3\8 airhose for the rest way, routed it behind the coilpacks after my recent timing belt job.

I really need to get rid of the airhose and make it 5\8 all the way to the engine.

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/5184/hpim0153.jpg
By null at 2010-11-13
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/555/hpim0164.jpg
By null at 2010-11-30
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/1746/hpim01630.jpg
By null at 2010-11-29

Thanks for the how-to! I'll try this out next week.

I've seen a demonstration on a V8 car where they sucked a bucket of water dry fairly quickly using a slash cut. Peak vacuum generally was found to coincide with peak torque.

Bob

.

Probably because at peak the tq the greatest difference between the items occur as in the highest pressure in the piping with flow vs the low pressure effects of the exhaust slashcut

Yea I cant find it now but it was a turbo LS motor forum where they said the crank case vacume with a slash cut evac on the dyno and it sort of parrelleled the torque curve rather than just a funcion of rpm.

Personally Id be happy if it just eliminated the oily residue in my engine compartment.

Bob