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Old 02-25-2011, 03:23 AM   #1
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Default Crankcase breather/ Catch can / Evac system thread.

Since discussions about this are scattered off topic posts in other threads I figured Id start a new one.

This is what I did and I havenít tested it yet. I will say I have a lot of experience with failure at coming up with a good system that works well on a really high hp track and street car while trying many things that others have come up with. I think this has good potential.

Both sides of the valve cover with opened up internal passegeas plus a port added in the side of the block are vented to a catch can with a separator system in it. It has a drain back to the very bottom of the oil pan sump. the catch can separator it is vented to a slash tube with a check valve using exhaust flow which should pull a slight vacuum on the whole setup and suck water vapor out.

Bob
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:26 AM   #2
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In to share results, I just got the one way exhaust valve to install, and will have my valve cover off to install my new cams latter today so I can enlarge the holes. On the slash tube for the exhaust is it suppose to intrude into the exhaust or just be cut off flush at a 45? it would seem that intrusion into the exhaust flow would have a greater affect but I have not installed one of these and was wondering what is the correct method.
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Old 02-25-2011, 01:00 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gotpsi? View Post
In to share results, I just got the one way exhaust valve to install, and will have my valve cover off to install my new cams latter today so I can enlarge the holes. On the slash tube for the exhaust is it suppose to intrude into the exhaust or just be cut off flush at a 45? it would seem that intrusion into the exhaust flow would have a greater affect but I have not installed one of these and was wondering what is the correct method.
I used a Moroso nipple it has a notch cut in it to set depth. It extends in about ľĒ Id say if you follow the instructions. Click on 25900

http://www.moroso.com/instructions.asp

Bob
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Old 02-25-2011, 01:48 PM   #4
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Looks good. You have no under-car chassis bracing?

For the consolidated record here's my pipe. Slashcut is situated next to the bell housing. I am just clamping the hose onto the valve; no fitting.



and my bay:



sealed catch can is in the mail. I am using a single -12 line which is as you can see, a big bastard. Probably about 20% less inner diameter area than Bob's two -10 lines.
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Old 02-25-2011, 01:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
Looks good. You have no under-car chassis bracing?

For the consolidated record here's my pipe. Slashcut is situated next to the bell housing. I am just clamping the hose onto the valve; no fitting.

sealed catch can is in the mail. I am using a single -12 line which is as you can see, a big bastard. Probably about 20% less inner diameter area than Bob's two -10 lines.
The two lines going to my valve cover are -8. The one going to the block and everything else is -10.

Lot of money in all those fittings I dont want to even look at the total.

Your line looks awful close to hot exhaust parts for me. I have barbequed lines that close to the exhaust even braided stainless. Works fine for the street but track driving barbeques everything. I use Firesleve on my turbo lines near the exhaust. The other option I looked at is Earls Ultra Flex 650 hose. It is good for 500 F, nearly double what other hoses will handle but it is $42 a foot in -10 size. Bob

Last edited by bbundy; 02-25-2011 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 02-25-2011, 02:29 PM   #6
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Where do you get your line wraps and heat shielding products?
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Old 02-25-2011, 02:33 PM   #7
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Dang, I was looking at the temp ratings and the highest I found was 350* Earls hose. But !!!!!!! $42/foot??? Dang that would hurt.

I did pick up some "Heat Sheath" for the hose though:

http://www.designengineering.com/cat...nized-sleeving

Hopefully that will last. I had this stuff before for my water/oil lines and it melted from ambient heat!

http://www.designengineering.com/cat...l-tube-extreme


Eventually, after my can comes in, I think I will run it under then manifold, and along the transmission instead of above the turbo.
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Old 02-25-2011, 02:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagase View Post
Where do you get your line wraps and heat shielding products?

Brands:

DEI

Thermotec


I buy mine from Amazon
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Old 02-25-2011, 05:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagase View Post
Where do you get your line wraps and heat shielding products?
I’ve used Aeroquip fire sleeve

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...988/Firesleeve

and DEI fire sleeve

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010472/

Seems to make the hose resistant to more like a continuous 500F.

The DEI stuff is a bit thinner and comes in a better color choice.

Bob
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:34 PM   #10
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So I just went out for a drive and I suppose the setup works- my seals didn't blow or anything. I did a few WOT pulls while looking in the mirror and didn't see any smoke clouds so I guess the exhaust burn-up isn't that bad.

When I dyno in a few weeks I will do a pull with the hose attached and a pull with the valve cover just VTA.

Could anyone recommend a cheap way to test the vacuum on the hose with a pressure gauge? Do I just have to rig up a pile of adapters?
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
Could anyone recommend a cheap way to test the vacuum on the hose with a pressure gauge? Do I just have to rig up a pile of adapters?
Great thread. Nice job Bob, I'm looking forward to the results!

Faeflora - You will need a very sensitive pressure gauge. My guess is that the amount of vacuum is less than 1/2 of a psi.

I recently checked valve cover/crank case pressure on the dyno. I saw 10-11" of water max (about 0.4 psi).

I used a "u-tube" manometer to take measurements.

I took readings from the oil cap. I drilled a spare cap and installed a 3/16" barb, and ran tubing from the barb to the manometer. Worked great!
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:18 PM   #12
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Good ideas everyone.

Pic of vibrant's setup showing the shape of the pipe that goes into the exhaust stream.

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...oducts_id=1243
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:14 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildo View Post
Great thread. Nice job Bob, I'm looking forward to the results!

Faeflora - You will need a very sensitive pressure gauge. My guess is that the amount of vacuum is less than 1/2 of a psi.

I recently checked valve cover/crank case pressure on the dyno. I saw 10-11" of water max (about 0.4 psi).

I used a "u-tube" manometer to take measurements.

I took readings from the oil cap. I drilled a spare cap and installed a 3/16" barb, and ran tubing from the barb to the manometer. Worked great!
No way. Judging from a great honda-tech thread I read, it will be more than 1/2 a psi of sucking on the slashcut.
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:16 AM   #14
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Woops, not much more. Here is the thread:

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1199935
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Old 02-26-2011, 01:21 AM   #15
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**** yall and your high dollar ****, damn my project cheap.
I just use 5\8 hyrdualic hose.
and 3\8 airhose for the rest way, routed it behind the coilpacks after my recent timing belt job.

I really need to get rid of the airhose and make it 5\8 all the way to the engine.


By null at 2010-11-13

By null at 2010-11-30

By null at 2010-11-29

Last edited by Techsalvager; 02-26-2011 at 01:44 AM.
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Old 02-26-2011, 10:00 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildo View Post
Great thread. Nice job Bob, I'm looking forward to the results!

Faeflora - You will need a very sensitive pressure gauge. My guess is that the amount of vacuum is less than 1/2 of a psi.

I recently checked valve cover/crank case pressure on the dyno. I saw 10-11" of water max (about 0.4 psi).

I used a "u-tube" manometer to take measurements.

I took readings from the oil cap. I drilled a spare cap and installed a 3/16" barb, and ran tubing from the barb to the manometer. Worked great!
Thanks for the how-to! I'll try this out next week.
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Old 02-26-2011, 03:51 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
No way. Judging from a great honda-tech thread I read, it will be more than 1/2 a psi of sucking on the slashcut.
I've seen a demonstration on a V8 car where they sucked a bucket of water dry fairly quickly using a slash cut. Peak vacuum generally was found to coincide with peak torque.

Bob
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Old 02-26-2011, 07:24 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbundy View Post
I've seen a demonstration on a V8 car where they sucked a bucket of water dry fairly quickly using a slash cut.
I believe it - low psi can coexist with high flow. What was the elevation of the bucket of water relative to the exhaust pipe? I can drain a bucket of water fairly quickly through a short length of hose and ambient air presssure on the end of that hose.

Peak vacuum generally was found to coincide with peak torque.
Hmm, I don't have any basis of proof to argue against this, but it makes sense to me that peak vacuum would be found with peak HP; to me it seems the exhaust gasses would be flowing through the exhaust at higher speeds at higher hp (while the volume of individual pulses of exhaust gas would indeed be greatest at the highest torque), and I was under the impression that the speed of air movement is what causes the vacuum.

Bob
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:31 PM   #19
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Probably because at peak the tq the greatest difference between the items occur as in the highest pressure in the piping with flow vs the low pressure effects of the exhaust slashcut
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Old 02-27-2011, 01:59 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Techsalvager View Post
Probably because at peak the tq the greatest difference between the items occur as in the highest pressure in the piping with flow vs the low pressure effects of the exhaust slashcut
Yea I cant find it now but it was a turbo LS motor forum where they said the crank case vacume with a slash cut evac on the dyno and it sort of parrelleled the torque curve rather than just a funcion of rpm.

Personally Id be happy if it just eliminated the oily residue in my engine compartment.

Bob
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