orion4096

iTrader: (22)

I have a problem with cruise control on my begi-s + gt2554r setup. As soon as I set speed the car speeds up, boost gets generated, cruise stops accelerating, the car slows down, etc. This is on level ground at highway speeds (55-65mph). It then repeats this with a period of 4-5s. Some searching shows that lots of people have cruise working with turbos and that this problem is usually due to a vacuum leak or allowing the cruise control to see greater than atmosphere pressure. I tried putting a check valve in the line and that didn't change anything. Below is an older pic of my car showing the cruise MAP line plumbing. Maybe the problem is plumbing it directly after the TB or in parallel with the bosch bypass valve? Any ideas?

Maybe I should try a different check valve.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

FWIW, I ran my line off a dedicated port on the IM to the cruise. Worked perfectly and no check valve needed. I'd pull it off of the BOV line for sure.

orion4096

iTrader: (22)

Moved the BOV to the rear of the intake and gave cruise it's own port at the front. Same problem.
Disconnected the BOV. Same problem.

I'm going to try a new check valve and if that doesn't work the cruise control is being pulled.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

I haven't had any issues with my cruise since installing the Rotrex. When the cruise accelerates, it adds throttle until 0 vacuum/0 boost is reached, and maintains that. No surging or other issues.

Pen2_the_penguin

iTrader: (4)

I installed a check valve. I dontz allow boostz to affect my cruise.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

Check valve + vacuum accumulator? the car shouldn't actually go into boost while your cruise control is holding a steady speed unless you start going up an incline.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

I hadn't read anything about it but I was always under the assumption that I would lose my cruise control when I changed to MS as a standalone. I was hating the thought of a six or seven hour drive in the Miata anyway. Without cruise it would be even worse.

So I get to keep it? Yay!

orion4096

iTrader: (22)

Tried a new check valve and that didn't do anything. I also tried at slower speeds and it still cutout before it even hit boost. This makes me think it's not turbo related. The FM clutch override is installed and maybe that's causing it to cutout. I'll try pulling it tonight.

Stephanie Turner

I remember this thread on m.net from a few months ago. Would it help?
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...urbo+Miatas%3F
Stephanie

orion4096

iTrader: (22)

I didn't see much in that thread other than:
- it should work.
- try a check valve.

Mine actually doesn't cut out completely (as in disables cruise), rather, it continues to accelerate then cutout then accelerate then cutout (repeat infinitely every 4-5s oscillating around target speed) without any input from me. I was hoping it was still functional so I could sell it, but it might be toast.

Pulling the clutch override didn't change anything which isn't much of a surprise.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

sounds like a bad cruise control brain. was a common problem with early '99s (my current DD included) where they would slowly accel 6 or 7 mph, then let off throttle completely until they hit target speed, then slowly accel again.

call FM salvage or planet miata and get one cheap

sprx3

this may or may not help,

i had a simular problem with my b2600, i found that it accelerated hard when the vehicle lost speed, so i restricted the vac line to the diaphram (brain) this slowed the vac to brain & made it less harsh, (less aggressive)

if you take some vac out (restrict it) somewhat the diaphram will not have the power to move around so much therfore wont try adjust to the speed as much, which in theory should settle the car quicker. The way i think of it is as a sea saw, the more weight you put on one end the faster the other end goes up, & visa versa... im not sure how well i have explained my theory but try restricting the vac line & see if it helps....