Deleting charcoal canister?
 

Keep in mind I still need to pass emissions. Really just need to make sure it doesnt throw a CEL. I want to remove the canister but ill keep all the electronics.

Any negatives to deleting the charcoal canister?

i'm pretty sure you asked this last year...

Definitely not. If I did I would remember.

I know that if you remove it you got just throw a filter onto the line, but that leads me to another question why not just connect the line straight to the intake manifold without the scrubber and just use a check valve.

Remove the canister, and loop the 2 lines together.
Take a picture or two before you pull it so it takes you about 2 minutes to re-install on emissions day.

What do you mean loop the lines?

i did it a long while back. just as said loop the lines, i've never smelt anything over my catless exhaust. basically it loses a couple pounds a frees up a little clutter in the bay, and chances are come inspection time nobody will notice.

Pardon me. Im confused. Loop the lines meaning take the line that goes to the manifold and connect it to the line thats connected to the solenoid? Effectively bypassing the canister?

I don't want to do something idiotic and blow up my gas tank, even though I would have a check valve in the line as I do right now.

What are the benefits of removing it? Anything significant?

nothing significant

:bowrofl::bowrofl:


Pardon me, but the real charcoal canister is under the car next to the pass. rear wheel. That thing under the hood is just a overflow tank incase any fluid comes through the system. It doesn't have anything in it and weighs less than 1lb.

:giggle:

Is it just for aesthetics/more room?
sorry I dont mean to hi-jack

i don't know man this is what i was calling a charcoal canister:eek4:

That is the only thing I've ever referred to as a charcoal canister.

Perhaps on an NB.

The canister is under the hood on the NBs as well (just confirmed on my gf's '00 and my friend's '04). However, unlike the NAs, the lines enter and exit on top of the canister.

Mike, are you sure you aren't referring to the fuel filter??? lol

well open up the one off an NA and see if there is any charcoal in it......


IIRC it's the same part number per NA/NB. It works just like a catch can being hooked up to the breather on the valvecover....it seperates vapor from liquid and is hollow.

Well, i just walked out and took this picture....

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...G/IMG_4497.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...G/IMG_4498.jpg

NA definitely doesn't have that. We do have a vent that ends above the passenger suspension. wonder what that comes from.

Well I was just kidding and giving you a hard time (since the filter is over there), but that is an interesting item that NAs definitely don't have.

really? I thought I saw one under there way back when i had my NA and changed the fuel filter....

I stand corrected. (But I still want to see what is inside the little canister under the hood)

This is what im talking about.

Connect those two lines together?

no.

there is a line that runs up from the bottom of the canister. you can't see it in that pic. you will disconnect the lines on top (remove the vacuum lines and the solenoid all together) and hook the bigger of the two on the top to the one coming from the bottom.

It'll make more sense once you remove it.

take note though that the hoses going to the canister and from the canister are two different sizes, and you will have to clamp the crap out of one end. I wasn't comfortable with the thought of having any chance for open gasoline vapors that close to my alternator so i pussied out and put the canister back in. :p

If I was at home right now, I'd tear mine apart because now I'm curious too. lol

Sam, look at post #9, that's what you'll end up with after you remove the canister and connect the two hard lines together. One of the hoses you'll remove actually fits between the two hard lines really well as it curves almost perfectly to fit. Just slip the clamps onto the hose and connect the hardlines.

Ok someone mentioned fuel vapors, alternators and exploding.

What are the chances of this?

By connecting the top line and the bottom line, what am I effectively doing? What are the two lines that run into the bottom and into the top? one i know is for manifold vac.

Here's an idea-

Just leave the damn thing. 1) It's not in the way (removing it won't make it easier to work on your car), and 2) removing it won't make your car perform any better.

On the other hand, you will waste time three ways: 1) removing it, 2) asking questions about how to remove it, 3) and replacing it for emissions testing.

If it doesnt throw CEL's then it really doesnt matter. I'm not gonna replace it.

What I want to do is use its space for WI.

It won't throw a code unless you disconnect the silenoid as well.

I did what everyone else did with mine, remove it and run the two tubes together with one line. I also decided to get a hack saw and cut it open to see what was inside before I tried to make a catch can out of it. There it a paper filter on top and two on bottom, one being a big circle and the other being a small one that fits inside of the larger one. There is charcoal in there aswell.

hmm, i capped the lines. Maybe not such a good idea?

I just wasted 7 minutes reading this, why couldn't you guys get to the point sooner??!!

So, since i capped off the lines, is my gas tank going to pop? I don't notice any excessive pressure when i remove the gas cap.

^ No. Most likely its a circulation through the canister. No more canister so it just goes back to wherever it came.

have a look at this....http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=15120

I followed the instructions, no more big black canister, no problems.

Brilliant, im tossing mine when I get my new radiator in.

unless your totally shaving or engine bay or making an all out race car i see no point in removing any part of your evap system.

with as much as people complain about ricers on this forum i'm a little surprised to see this topic come up as often as it does. it's not hurting performance, and it just makes more effort come inspection time.

are people really underhood often enough for it to be in the way on a basis frequent enough to warrant removal?

next are you guys going to take the gas cap off to save weight?

i'm not trying to convince/flame anyone, just ranting i guess. to each his own, but i don't get it.

I'm doing it. Not because it gets in the way, but that we don't have inspections in FL, and I plan on doing a semi wire tuck this fall.

that i understand, it's just the "doing it to do it" that bothers me i guess.

i'd just as soon spend the time going for a drive.

Im gonna put the water injection pump there, so the space will be well used.

Does that qualify me for approval for removal from you?

that depends, where is said water being injected?



please don't answer that question seriously.

I removed my charcoal canister about 6 months ago, and did nothing with the lines. On occasion, fuel will spurt from the bottom line so you definitely need to do something about the bottom line. Capping it would be bad as that is the vent for it.

Ok, thats one line, where is the other line going?

edit: been doing some googling. It goes to free air.

i dont know if i'm a little late...i kinda skipped ahead...but wouldn't routing the line to your intake manifold be a bad idea? since the purpose of the charcoal canister is to let gas fumes out? i mean...boost builds pressure, doesn't that pressure negate the pressure the fumes in the fuel tank are trying to push out?

Thats why you put a check valve on it to prevent it from pressurizing the line leading back to your gas tank.

Basically all the charcoal canister does is neutralize the vapors, and mix them with fresh air at which point the engine sucks em down.

I wonder how bad it would be to just by pass the canister, hook the fuel vap line to the solenoid directly and just have the engine vac the gas tank each time the solenoid opens in vacuum.

Seems like an equation for an intake manifold backfire.

lol i've actually seen that before....one nasty fireball coming out hte intake manifold

... and out too free air it goes.

so really what i should do is get my lazy ass under there and remove the lines completely.

I took all of the emissions crap out and have never had any issues other than the stupid check engine light come one. Nothing that a little bulb removal didnt help lol

Does the MS even control that solenoid?

No it doesnt, but if you need to pass emissions with a parallel setup then the stock ecu will throw a code if you pull the electrics for it.

yeah those two lines everyone is capping, it just goes to another 6" hardline, then to a soft line that goes to the inside of the subframe, and then VTA. I disconnected the line from the bottom and bend the hardline down, now it'll just drip on the top of my subframe, whoopie.

just used the existing hose to loop the lines then cut a vacuum line and looped it at the eletronics.

Will deleting this increase the likelihood of failing the sniffer test? I'm on MS, so not worried about OBD stuffs.

I'm pretty sure you could only fail a visual inspection without one.

not in texas, lol...they don't even look under the hood really...the big turbo doesn't help my cause. I just want to be sure I pass the sniffer. I have a few freinds who can do the inspection, but I'd like to know I can get a sticker, just in case they all die or are deported.

As an update, I passed inspection in NY without the can back in October.

What I might do is steal Evank's charcoal canister when he isnt looking. Its about 1/4 of the size of the can in the NA.

Mine has been deleted since spring time. No ill effects at all.

I don't know if it contributed but I passed on my 3rd try with charcoal and egr removed.

I used to live in Austin (travis county) a few years ago and they only did a visual inspection, no sniffer with OBDI. Did they change this?

I actually live in Dallas, but I'm working in Austin.

Ive removed my Ccan and the sylinoid and the wiring for it, even my idle air control valve and the wiring. But i dont get check engine light, It comes on for start up like its supposed to but then its off.

Anyone else getting a code for it ? is my ecu just that gay?