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Old 01-17-2008, 07:11 PM   #21
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sweet, thanks for bringing this up again. i remember seeing this way back when i first got my car, but now that i have the turbo kit on order i am looking for excuses to work on my car until the turbo kit gets here.
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:09 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
I am not gonna paint my fuel rail. Unless that has some sort of measurable benefits.
Does any of this relate to NB's at all? We don't have the regulator sucking on the far end of the rail (though I doubt that's an issue).....

Also, I've taken out my pulse dampers. I should look at all that again now I guess.... Anyway, curious what the NB crowd does.
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:21 PM   #23
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It was so easy to do, I don't see a reason not to. I would recommend putting an old blanket under the car when you do this so if you drop your plastic spacers they are easier to find. Mine bounced off the cement and rolled into the grass when I dropped it, took me a while to find it.
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:40 PM   #24
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what's the concensus on power/boost level that this is required? I'm at 9psi right now, but when my clutch and DP come in I want to go to 12 psi this month. With my T3 that should be about 220Whp, maybe more. Think it's really necessary?
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Old 01-17-2008, 09:58 PM   #25
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I would say everyone should do it. Anything to make sure all 4 cylinders get enough fuel should be done.

I'm not sure what rules apply, but it helps the #4 cylinder run cooler and not run lean.
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Old 01-17-2008, 10:15 PM   #26
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I say do it. I didn't do mine, and while I've had no issues, I agree with Ben that the theory is good.
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:16 PM   #27
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I haven't done it. No problems so far at up to 15psi. but then again I like to be pretty rich in boost - 12.5 at 4k tapering to about 11.8 at redline.
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:23 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Al Hounos View Post
I haven't done it. No problems so far at up to 15psi. but then again I like to be pretty rich in boost - 12.5 at 4k tapering to about 11.8 at redline.
yeah, i'm running [email protected] and plan to run 12.0 @12psi. should be safe, will still go dual feed eventually.
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:30 PM   #29
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I was looking at brain's article and it says to use a 21/64" drill bit with the 1/8 tap. Am i missing something, 21/64 is much bigger than 1/8
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes65 View Post
I was looking at brain's article and it says to use a 21/64" drill bit with the 1/8 tap. Am i missing something, 21/64 is much bigger than 1/8
1/8npt is not the same as 1/8. An npt is pipe thread and the 1/8" doesn't mean OD. Next time you're at Home Depot or something, go check out the npt stuff and you'll see.
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:50 PM   #31
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ohhhhh, it all makes sense
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:02 AM   #32
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To those of u wondering about difficulty...DO IT. Period. As far as the benefits I havent finished the car yet, but as far as experience needed/do i want to mess with this....DEFINTELY

Print Brain's instructions/post, get exactly whats on the list(21/64bit is common to find, might already have one....the tap/fittings/etc Advanced sells them, and ge the bit there like i did), and do exactly what he writes, it IS that simple and newby-proof.

As for "do i wanna mess with the fuel system" jitters....Its nothing. Esp if u alread took ur injectors off, u did 70percent of the work. The lines just pull off, perfect example about the shotglass of fuel(shop towel under u is all u need, if that) and open the gascap first. I wrapped a shop towel around a pair of lock pliers, and pinched the line to be extra safe. Make sure u dont lose the plastic spacers under the 3 bolts, wont go on the same without them(but they can be bought), and be gentle and patient with the clips on the injectors(which u already did).

Finally JB weld is like peanut butter and jelly, but thicker. U take a piece of cardboard, or a plastic knife and u spread it kinda. It hardens and seals, dunno how, magic maybe but it does...

And thats it, cheap insurance is the way I saw it, and I did the SAME thing and sent my injectors out, then wondered...hmmm should I?
Do it...
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:07 AM   #33
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Guhh I guess I should do this before I go to 12psi.
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:05 AM   #34
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Okay, so i have my fuel rail off, which was a bit harder than i expected, but then again, i'd never done it before. Anyway, i see how in brain's post it says to be careful not to lose the spacer. Well, i think i have lost the spacer. I have been looking for it for a while now and no luck. Is that something i can pick up at autozone or something? I know, i know, im a dumbass.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-20-2008, 02:04 AM   #35
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What does the spacer look like and where is it, so I can anticipate it.
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Old 01-20-2008, 02:17 AM   #36
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The spacer is a black plastic washer that sits in the intake manifold to space the fuel rail to the right height. They're about 1/8" thick or somewhere around there. Be careful, is spent 30 minutes looking for one i dropped. It was lodged between my oil pan and subframe, could hardly see it.
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Old 01-20-2008, 11:58 AM   #37
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Yea but where is it? At the bolt points?
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:05 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes65 View Post
Okay, so i have my fuel rail off, which was a bit harder than i expected, but then again, i'd never done it before. Anyway, i see how in brain's post it says to be careful not to lose the spacer. Well, i think i have lost the spacer. I have been looking for it for a while now and no luck. Is that something i can pick up at autozone or something? I know, i know, im a dumbass.
Thanks in advance.
I ran without those spacers for a while. Just don't tighten the rail bolts down too hard upon re-installation.
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:06 PM   #39
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Yea but where is it? At the bolt points?
'tween the rail and the motor, at the bosses for the bolts.
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:55 PM   #40
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Im sure u could find the spacer at either Autozone, if not Mazda...
I would take a real good look tho, like posted above they tend to get invisble when on the subframe..
Did u hear it hit the floor? Or just rattle down? Check for it...worse case u could prob run w/ just 2, 1 on each end and dont tighten the middle bolt too much...

Have u started the actual mod yet? after rail is off it should only take like 15min with the right tools, plus jbweld curing time...
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