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I've been wondering why more people haven't tried something like this. I was thinking about using angle iron on either side of the rail. Bolt them through the floor and to each other through the rail.
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Originally Posted by 91NApeewee
(Post 258860)
thats cool, but the point of the FM rails is that they mount to the floor pans increase the stiffness along them.
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Originally Posted by Atlanta93LE
(Post 259067)
Remember...the end goal should be closed sections.
But yea, it needs to somehow hold to the floor. Incorporate some L brackets maybe |
Originally Posted by cueball1
(Post 259063)
I've been wondering why more people haven't tried something like this. I was thinking about using angle iron on either side of the rail. Bolt them through the floor and to each other through the rail.
I see where you are going with this, but I think the fact that each "half" is tied together benefits you too much to not go with a couple of hat-shaped sections like the FM ones. Wouldn't be that expensive to have a metal fab place shear them up and put them in a brake for four bends. Plus, the will likely be lower weight as well, even without the cutouts on the FM ones. Hell, you can probably hole saw some holes if you want to lower the weight. They are probably saving 2 lbs is all. Bolted wide through the floor is key here. |
Originally Posted by 91NApeewee
(Post 259089)
closed sections are not subject to Lateral Torsional Buckling :giggle:. Damn structural engineering.
Good to see another structural engineer here. I do structural forensics for a living. |
Originally Posted by Atlanta93LE
(Post 259110)
Well, they are more resistant to LTB, but they can exhibit that failure mode, especially with highly slender, nonuniform elements. I can show you some photos of it happening if you like ;)
Good to see another structural engineer here. I do structural forensics for a living. also, you have a PM |
Originally Posted by samnavy
(Post 259059)
How did you hurt your frame rails that bad in the first place?
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Originally Posted by miatamania
(Post 259134)
Low + Speed bumps...mine look like a domestic violence victim.
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+1 on the lowered vs speedbump problem.
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Mine suffered when I tried to grind a curb skater style :(
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ah screw you guys.... every week you disappoint me by making good shit from useless crap :/
kind of makes me want to hang myself for spending all that precious $$ :/ |
Originally Posted by samnavy
(Post 259059)
What exactly did that entail?
I can see some grinder work and perhaps some hammering. Was it that the rail was slightly wider than the track in the bracing, or was your rail uneven down it's length and you just smoothed it out. How did you hurt your frame rails that bad in the first place? What is the width of the rack you're using? Do you think that these braces would "slip" over an unmolested frame rail? What would be ideal is if the brace .001" wider than the rail and you would simply tap it up into place with a rubber mallet. Rigging up a crossbrace would be a really simple proposition. Is there any dramatic difference in the undercarriage between the years. I know FM's brace is "universal", but is there anything to consider along those lines? 2. Yes they would just slip over if they haden't been so bent outta shape. Light tapping with a rubber mallet worked on another miata that did same project. 3. Pretty sure the undercarriage is similar...the only thing to watch out for is fuel + brake lines. |
Look into the test method FM did to quantify the stiffness increase from their rails (on their site I believe). Do the same test with your car. Compare results.
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