i havnt heard any about Balanced Performance.
just Mainstream, lethal injections and All speed..... |
Originally Posted by WonTon
(Post 563204)
i havnt heard any about Balanced Performance.
just Mainstream, lethal injections and All speed..... |
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie
(Post 563134)
Here is a brilliant example of an idiotic dyno operator.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=372775 The OP is obviously an idiot, but the dyno operator should know better, yet he did consecutive pulls on a boosted setup with AFRs in the 15's. If this hadnt been such a weak sauce JRSC setup it would have blown up pretty quickly. This is not an isolated incident, I personally know people who operate dynos in my area and most of them are back-yard mechanics at best and have no business anywhere near a dyno or tuning software. But w/e, if you wnat to put your car in the hands of someone who is likely an idiot, than knock yourself out. |
they are pretty good with Nissans, honda and swaps of that nature. but i have seen some off there custom turbo kits and thought to myself i wouldnt take my car to them. lots of half ass shit with wiring. the only other thing that i have heard about them is a few of the guys there that tune are not very good at it.
Mainstream has blown up a few cars, and All speed just sucks for anything except alignments( they are way to over priced ). |
Originally Posted by miatata
(Post 563206)
Do you think it's the responsibility of the dyno operator when a customer is just doing idiotic pulls? He had no engine management and didn't even attempt any tuning. He's digging his own grave, no?
When you get your car dyno'ed you are putting it in the hands of the operator, and it his responsibility to abort the pull if it goes lean, detonates, overheats, etc. since you cant monitor it yourself. If i were the dyno operator I would have aborted immediately, and upon finding out that the owner hadnt installed any EMS I would have told him to go home and come back when the car was running right. or better yet I would have advised him to sell the car immediately, buy something bone stock and leave it that way. |
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie
(Post 563217)
The customer doenst do the pulls, I have never seen a shop that would allow that, the insurance companies would never allow it.
When you get your car dyno'ed you are putting it in the hands of the operator, and it his responsibility to abort the pull if it goes lean, detonates, overheats, etc. since you cant monitor it yourself. If i were the dyno operator I would have aborted immediately, and upon finding out that the owner hadnt installed any EMS I would have told him to go home and come back when the car was running right. or better yet I would have advised him to sell the car immediately, buy something bone stock and leave it that way. |
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie
(Post 563127)
I assure you, I am not the one who is retarded here.
If you really think that a dyno perfectly simulates real world load then you my friend are a serious moron. For one, it seems like dynojets are the most common chassis dynos around, and they put dramatically less load on the engine than driving does, you can actually see substantial difference in spool times. You could tune a car to make all sorts of power on a dynojet, stick it on the road and it will blow the fuck up. I never said that the dyno was useless. Its a very good tool. But the simple fact is that the vast majority of tuners and dyno operators dont know shit. I would rather be safe than sorry and know that when they start dyno tuning my car its already got a good street tune on it. But thats just me. I guess if I were like you and had to hire a tuner due to my own incompetence then maybe I would fee differently. No blown cars so far so I guess I'm "lucky"... |
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie
(Post 563127)
I assure you, I am not the one who is retarded here.
If you really think that a dyno perfectly simulates real world load then you my friend are a serious moron. My dyno operation can load the engine and hold it at any rpm for tuning. Yes that means that you are WOT, yet the dyno will hold the rpms steady. I want to see you do that on the road in a boosted car. |
Youre making this argument about something that I totally agree with you about, even if your understanding of load is flawed.
But w/e, I guess I just keep running into the few tuners on the planet that are idiots. |
Originally Posted by falcon
(Post 563122)
lol, are you retarded or something?
A proper dyno tune out does a road tune any day. My tuner scraps EVERYTHING he hasn't done and does it all on the dyno. No blown engines so far... :idea: And they get tracked. The post-dyno road tune should be tweaking and fine tuning only. |
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie
(Post 563383)
Youre making this argument about something that I totally agree with you about, even if your understanding of load is flawed.
Originally Posted by saint_foo
(Post 563502)
Ideally, you road-tune prior to a dyno tune. THEN, dyno tune. THEN road tune. Real-world road driving is how the car will be driven. There usually are a few instances, especially at idle, partial-throttle, tip-in, etc. that you cannot duplicate on a dyno.
The post-dyno road tune should be tweaking and fine tuning only. |
I've had 600AWHP cars tuned only on dynos (Miustang) and they haven't blown up yet? A road tune is for a road car. If you plan to drive your car on the track, in high revs for long periods of time a dyno tune is what will keep your car from blowing up. The load adjustability on they dyno allows the dyno operator to reach every area of the map.
Now, if you only use a Dynojet... that's a bragging rights dyno and completly useless for proper tuning, which is why I see why you're saying what you are. |
Originally Posted by falcon
(Post 563569)
Now, if you only use a Dynojet... that's a bragging rights dyno and completly useless for proper tuning, which is why I see why you're saying what you are.
|
Originally Posted by Spookyfish
(Post 563554)
Ok. My main complaint was your advice to run WOT in 4th through the rev range un-tuned with the window open. Maybe that's better than your average dyno operator, but I wouldn't want to advise that.
All true. Crank, warmup, idle, etc. is all tuned off dyno. You want that sorted before you hit it. But maximum load is on the dyno, not on the street. True. My point is that a dyno tune usually can use tweaks that you cannot get from a dyno. |
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